I'm interested to find out from anyone who has a car over 150k miles and used the same oil brand and grade throughout most of the car's life. If you have done so what oil did you use, what oil grade, and what were the OCI's?
Thanks
Thanks
Is your car over 150k mi on one oil brand & grade?
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I went about that far using Motorcraft 5w20 in my 01 Escape, then switched to syn to standardize with my Mustang GT. It has QSUD in it now, at 180k but I bought Maxlife to use next time. The car is just now starting to leak a little oil. Hoping the Maxlife might help. 5k OCI.
Our Wrangler recently passed 160k. 20k break in with Valvoline, then Amsoil 5w30 after that, up to 12k intervals for OCI.
From 120k to 140k, used 4 different oils as part of a personal oil test (soon to be posted).
Just replaced the head gasket, and inside of the engine was clean.
[OK so not all one 1 oil, but close]
From 120k to 140k, used 4 different oils as part of a personal oil test (soon to be posted).
Just replaced the head gasket, and inside of the engine was clean.
[OK so not all one 1 oil, but close]
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'98 S10 4.3L owned since new. 5W30 dino to 10,000 miles then switched to Mobil 1 10W30, and has run that ever since. Current mileage is 151,500. Oil and filter changed every 5,000 miles.
One sidenote; at 140,000 I started using the HM formula.
One sidenote; at 140,000 I started using the HM formula.
Will never happen with me since I always buy what's on sale...
two cars:
Mobil 1 5W-30 and then 0W-30 for most of their lives:
1987 Honda Accord LXi 2.0L EFI 5-speed manual: 305,000 mi sold it ran great when sold - rusted out
4000 mi OCI, Purolator Pure One filters: daily revving, track driving;
1995 Ford Ranger 2wd 2.3L 'Lima', 5-speed manual: 202,000 mi traded in - ran like new- very rusty
5000 mi OCI, Motorcraft FL-1A filters: revved hard, used for towing
Mobil 1 5W-30 and then 0W-30 for most of their lives:
1987 Honda Accord LXi 2.0L EFI 5-speed manual: 305,000 mi sold it ran great when sold - rusted out
4000 mi OCI, Purolator Pure One filters: daily revving, track driving;
1995 Ford Ranger 2wd 2.3L 'Lima', 5-speed manual: 202,000 mi traded in - ran like new- very rusty
5000 mi OCI, Motorcraft FL-1A filters: revved hard, used for towing
Lets see?
85 Escort diesel 300K when the body fell apart, M1 10-30
84 Tempo gas 150K, M1 10-30
91 Ford Ranger 354K, M1 10-30
96 Ford Contour 220K M1 10-30
96 Mercury GM 218K, M1 10-30
All on 10K OCIs and no UOAs until two years ago for the novelty of it.
All of these engines ran fine at the time we parted ways.
85 Escort diesel 300K when the body fell apart, M1 10-30
84 Tempo gas 150K, M1 10-30
91 Ford Ranger 354K, M1 10-30
96 Ford Contour 220K M1 10-30
96 Mercury GM 218K, M1 10-30
All on 10K OCIs and no UOAs until two years ago for the novelty of it.
All of these engines ran fine at the time we parted ways.
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Kestas
Staff member
I ran my 85 Omni 2.2L 165K using Castrol 20W-50 exclusively, with 3K oil changes. The car was then sold to a second owner.
2000 Pontiac Sunfire 260k on car..id say at least 200k on engine. Owned car since 90k Mobil 1 5w-30 3-4k oci.
Not 150k for me, but I've run two cars to 100k on Mobil 1 each before just deciding recently that it wasn't worth it anymore.
Prices are too high on brand-name synthetic and I'm not certain that brand names matter all that much. There is so much good *free* or really cheap oil out there that I've decided to mix it up a bit and try other brands.
As long as it is API certified and free/cheap is all that matters to me now.
Prices are too high on brand-name synthetic and I'm not certain that brand names matter all that much. There is so much good *free* or really cheap oil out there that I've decided to mix it up a bit and try other brands.
As long as it is API certified and free/cheap is all that matters to me now.
Thanks for the responses.
For me, I had a '97 Nissan Quest with a life of PYB SL 5w-30 before selling to CarMax with 140k, and a '92 Ford Tempo that I donated because it wouldn't pass inspection due to the driver's auto seat belt was removed and replaced with a manual one that had 100k of Valv Durablend 5w-30. At that time I was a 3k OCI'er because it was a sign of the time.
Surprisingly so many made it to 100k! Just what I thought with everyone's posts, quality/name brand oil and OC's will take an engine past 100k.
For me, I had a '97 Nissan Quest with a life of PYB SL 5w-30 before selling to CarMax with 140k, and a '92 Ford Tempo that I donated because it wouldn't pass inspection due to the driver's auto seat belt was removed and replaced with a manual one that had 100k of Valv Durablend 5w-30. At that time I was a 3k OCI'er because it was a sign of the time.
Surprisingly so many made it to 100k! Just what I thought with everyone's posts, quality/name brand oil and OC's will take an engine past 100k.
Several taxis, one standout example was a 1981 Chevrolet Impala with the 305. Quaker State conventional 10w-30 and Wix filter at 6,000 mile OCI, went to 600,000 miles and was then retired in running order.
I have a Focus Zetec almost there... 140K... It's always got Conventional Federated Auto Parts brand and their Hastings made Federated brand filters. Engine has shown excellent health.
Thanks for sharing. You were the first to post who has not used a big company name brand oil and exceeded 100k. Let's see if others will post their success with a non-big name oil brand.
2000 4Runner with 200K, Amsoil full synth from 36k on. The engine never consumed oil. No complaints!
2000 SSEI S/C V6 with 263k miles and after the first 100 miles it has had M1 5/30. 10k oil change with a oversize oil filter and it does not use any more than 1/4 qt. in 10k miles. This motor is still very strong turning high 13 sec. @ 98 mph 1/4 times.
ROD
ROD
My belief is that if the oil in the bottle wears the API logo legitimately, it meets a very high quality standard. I usually buy Federated Auto Parts. It's always worn the API logo. It was made by Amalie (Wolf's Head) a few years back, and is currently made by Warren Dist. (Mag 1) I have bought Advance Auto Parts brand before (Warren Unilube, now Warrend Dist.) If it bore the API seal, I poured it in and drove.
Always been using conventional, pretty much always house brand. If you look on the bottom of the bottles, you can usually determine who made it.
The biggest bottlers are Warrent Dist. (Mag1) Warren Unilube (Warren, Coastal) and SSI (Smitty's, SuperS). Smitty's is the only one who occasionally biffs on specs according to PQI.
When buying my "Generic" Oil, I look for the maker's mark. The Fed brand said "Made by Amalie" on the label at one time.. If you flip a bottle of Peak, AZ, AA, Fed, etc.. look for Wpp, or Wne stamped on the plastic. This is Warren Dist. (Mag1). If it bears the API seal, you're gold.
Always been using conventional, pretty much always house brand. If you look on the bottom of the bottles, you can usually determine who made it.
The biggest bottlers are Warrent Dist. (Mag1) Warren Unilube (Warren, Coastal) and SSI (Smitty's, SuperS). Smitty's is the only one who occasionally biffs on specs according to PQI.
When buying my "Generic" Oil, I look for the maker's mark. The Fed brand said "Made by Amalie" on the label at one time.. If you flip a bottle of Peak, AZ, AA, Fed, etc.. look for Wpp, or Wne stamped on the plastic. This is Warren Dist. (Mag1). If it bears the API seal, you're gold.
2001 Chevrolet silverado 1500 Z71. 5.3 vortec, factory fill was drained and refilled with M1 5w-30 at dealership before I left in it with 150 miles. Took it all the way to 165k on nothing but Mobil 1 then the tranny gave out and and I traded for a new 09 Dodge ram. And I thought I was doing good taking care of the motor!
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