is this sludge?

97tbird

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9,283
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Fayetteville, NC
i'm going to toch it and let you guys know if it comes off...my oil filler cap is 100 % clean, btw. tbird 4.6, with 110k miles. if this is sludge, i wonder why that whitish metal plate(blurry, in the foreground) is really clean (you can even read the numbers on it, it's totally clean)...
 
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333
Location
Shreveport, LA, USA
Yeah, what are we looking at, inside an oil filler? If so, I agree that just looks like a rough cast iron surface. The metal piece in the foreground looks entirely too clean for there to be a serious sludge concern. Heck, it doesn't even look varnished!
 
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4,499
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Massachusetts
If that's what it is, I'll stick with that being the head's rough cast iron surface. It actually looks pretty clean. If there was sludge, you wouldn't see the cleaned machined surface for the head bolt on the right of the picture.
 

97tbird

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Fayetteville, NC
Thanks for looking, guys...i know these photos are not very interesting [Smile] Here's another pic...not much different, though. (but you can see the meatl piece and the edge of the surface for the head bolt a little better):  - and another, where the white metal piece is better to be seen:  -
 
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10,905
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Nokesville, VA
Is this the inside view of the oil filter of some Ford engine with a design dating back to 1991 (at least?) The F1AE-6B28 looks like the prefix and base part number of a Ford part number. F1 = 1991. Edit: I see from your post above that it's a 4.6L Tbird.
 

97tbird

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Fayetteville, NC
yeah, then it's pretty darn clean. What oil have YOU been using! LOL! I just used water [Smile] no, seriously, the oil (all brands I've used) has always been so clean on my dipstick, i have to hold it at an angle to check it. I got the car w/72k, and the prev. owner used ONLY Pennz. dino 10/40, he said. since then I've used: Pennz. HM, several OCI's one OCI with GC, several OCI with Chevron dino and one OCI w/Arx & chevron(at 80k miles or so), M1-SUV 5/40 once ..so this Tbird 4.6L has seen a bunch of different oils, but only MC FL-820s filters. then for the last 15-20k or so, I've only used MC 10/30+10/40 mix with a little RL 10/40 as top-up (last OCI: 6 months), and VSOT (half a bottle, only in the last OCI). Currently, I'm using Mobil HM 10/30 for winter. in summer it'll be Hav.HM 10/30. The car sees extreme short-trip abuse (at least four 3-5 min drives a day, and the longest trips about 15 min, 3-4 times a week), so I guess I should be happy that it's clean, huh? Brian: This is a '97 4.6L
 
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The 4.6L dates back to 1991, so it makes sense that this part has an F1 prefix. If you ever happen to note the Ford part number for the FL-820S filter, you'll notice that it too has an F1 prefix since it was introduced along with the 4.6L that it fit in 1991.
 
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This is how it works: D=70s, E=80s, F=90s, and the digit is the year in that decade, so E8 is 1988 and F5 is 1995. They changed it for 2000; I have no idea how it works for 2000-newer vehicles.
 

crw

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Pocatello, ID
> no, seriously, the oil (all brands I've used) has always been so clean on my dipstick, i have to hold it at an angle to check it. I've seen the same on my 4.6L Ford. Oil remains amazingly clean on the dipstick. No consumption. It's a 1998 Mustang. Now, when I change the oil it seems dirty enough, but the dipstick always looks like new oil. It's probably just the fact that the "pool" of oil looks dirtier, but you don't suppose that the oil on the dipstick is somehow not "mixing up" the majority of the oil? No, that can't be possible.... [I dont know]
 
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