Is this oil/filter setup perfect for my LS1?

[Bobby C 01TA]

I have a 2001 TA.. only 17.8 k miles.. bought it brand new..automatic with stall and bolt ons..353rwhp 409rwt.. It started consuming oil a little over a year ago. It takes me a while to hit 3k miles and I wanted to change the oil every 6 mos since I dont drive it too much.. but I do drive it hard.. I do the M1 10W30 (4) and M1 15W50 (2) and just started using the M1 206 Oil filter..Since the car consumes oil, i'll add a qt. of 10w30 off and on till 6 mos arrivesadding fresh oil as well as keeping the crankcase full. Is this good to do for my car? [ November 18, 2003, 11:30 AM: Message edited by: Bobby C 01TA ]

 

[Jelly]

German Castrol 0w-30 K&N Oil Filter Your turn Patman...

 

[Bobby C 01TA]

stratgt- headers,pulley,3200 stall,lid,exhaust cutout and a z06 cam.. thats all..hehe.. stalls give globs of torque. Yea I'm waiting on Patman myself hehe.. dam he knows his stuff.. :-D

 

[Chris B.]

Hi Bobby, I have a 2002 Ls1 Z28 and I love it. I had a good oil report with M1 5w30 and a Napa Gold oil filter. I have now started to use M1 10w30 year round as Dyson Analysis reccomends. The M1 oil filter you use does not flow very well and is designed to filter better. Most folks on here think you need a filter that flows better especally if you drive hard(your wear will come down). Try a K&N oil filter or a Napa Gold(Wix) both flow great and still filter well. Unfortunally my Z28 was knocking hard and the dealer did a rebuild at 12,000 miles. The engine is still knocking and sounds like a diesel. Oil burning is down a little. I'm going to ask chevy for a 100,000 mile engine warranty as soon as I put more miles on the rebuild to see how much oil it's burning or if it will stop. It runs very strong still( maybe even a little better after the rebuild) and I'm happy with it as long as she keeps killing ricers! Do a search on LS1, knocking, piston slap, and "dealer rebuild" and you can read up on this stuff in great detail! Enjoy!

 

[Ryan00TJ]

Sounds like a good plan to me although I would top up with M1 15W-50 instead of the 10W-30. I would also go with the Wix or K@N oil filter. In my 02 SS I run Schaeffer 10W-30 Blend with a Wix 51522 oil filter and I change at 6mos or 3000 miles as I'm just anal when it comes to my LS1! My most recent UOA has been exceptional for a $2.70 oil. Most recent UOA http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000773 StratGT.... The LS1 is a amazing motor as to the NA power capability it has. My car makes 399rwhp @ 386rwtq with a mild cam Long tube headers and on stock LS1 heads. A set of stage II heads would bump me to 420 rwhp if not more. Bobby C 01TA..... I used to run the LS6 cam and loved it but recently upgraded to the TR224 112LSA and am now in need of a 12 bolt as my new Nittos are about to arrive. What kind of ETs have you done with the LS6 cam? Mine pulled awesome from 4000-6500 and made 376rwhp @ 361 rwtq 6 speed. The only downside was it doesn't produce alot more lowend torque than stock but that is what your 4000 stall is for!

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Jelly: German Castrol 0w-30 K&N Oil Filter Your turn Patman...

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That recipe would definitely work well in an LS1. Two other good choices in oils would be Amsoil 5w30 or Redline 5w30. With the LS1, you basically want an oil that is in the upper end of the 30wt range, close to 12cst at 100C.

 

[Bobby C 01TA]

ryan- so far my best is a [email protected] and that was before the cam and DR's.. after the cam I got a best of [email protected] cause the car wouldnt launch as hard due to tire spin. I picked up 40rwhp and 40rwt(64 rwt with converter spike) and love it.. its like a sleeper cam.. like my car heh About the oil and filter...should I worry about this M1 206 or can I go 6 mos with it? I will switch to a K&N once I change the oil again but I just did a drain and fresh oil change and dont want all that to go to waste. Or.. I can change it at 4k or 5k..blah.. I should have just gotten the K&N in the first place! I was using Wix/Napa Gold prior to the long M1 206 and thought this filter would be better

 

[sbc350gearhead]

Don't they still make the AC Delco ultraguard gold for the ls-1? If I were going to go to the trouble of installing a 12 bolt GM rearend in a 4th gen F-body, I would probably get a currie 9inch instead, due to the inherent problems with GM c-clip rears.........Unless you really want to keep it all GM, and in that case the 12 bolt is the best GM produced due to the 8.875 ring gear.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by sbc350gearhead: Don't they still make the AC Delco ultraguard gold for the ls-1?

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Yes, thanks to some very determined Corvette owners who spoke up very loudly, they still make the UPF44 oil filter that fits the LS1. A lot of LS1 f-body owners go with the longer filters though, such as the PF58 and PF59, since the PF44 and UPF44 are so small. The Corvette cannot use the longer filter though, it sits way too low and the longer filter would be in more danger of getting hit, while on the f-body the longer filter is still protected by the oil pan.

 

[Jelly]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

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Originally posted by Jelly: German Castrol 0w-30 K&N Oil Filter Your turn Patman...

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That recipe would definitely work well in an LS1. Two other good choices in oils would be Amsoil 5w30 or Redline 5w30. With the LS1, you basically want an oil that is in the upper end of the 30wt range, close to 12cst at 100C.

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Pat, Since he is having some oil consumption, what are your thoughts on running something such as Rotella-T 5w-40...believe it comes in around 14.5cSt or so.

 

[StratGT]

I know nothing bout the LS1, but I'd like to keep this post alive therefore I'm posting a remark. What did you do to get that kind of HP out of a LS1? Is is supercharged, N20, or turbocharged? No wonder so many people fear that car/ engine.

 

[Patman]

For those which are consuming more oil than normal, and the usual fixes like the updated PCV don't help, an oil like that might just work out well. Delvac 1 might also be a good alternative too (although more expensive than Rotella!)

 

[Mike_dup1]

I have a 2002 TA WS6 with all options, 6sp, Pewter. New in Oct 2001. I use Amsoil 10W-30, SDF32 oil filter and FlowZair TS83 air filter, Amsoil ATF in trans and 75W-90 series 2000 in rear axle. I changed the Mobil 1 out in Nov of 2001 and run Amsoil since Use car about 6 months out of the year, about 7,000 mile annually with just over 14,000 miles. So far I have changed oil 3x, every fall a week or so before I store it for the winter. From day 1, it never used any oil. I do not drive it hard, never hit the red-line yet. I just like the car and not into racing or hot-rodding. I do not plan to ever get rid of the car. [ November 19, 2003, 02:20 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]

 

[Patman]

Mike, you should do some UOAs on that oil, it would be really interesting to see how the wear numbers would be on a gently driven LS1. All of the UOAs on here have been from hard driven LS1s. I'd be willing to bet your wear numbers are extremely low, most of the major wear metals would be in the 0.5-1.0ppm/1000 mile range I bet.

 

[Bobby C 01TA]

arrrg..no one answered my ? lol.. hehe.. am i gonna be ok with the m1 206 for 6 mos?? Or shoudl I change it within 3 mos and get the K&N? In 6 mos I'll prolly put around 3500 at most on the car..usually around 3000

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bobby C 01TA: arrrg..no one answered my ? lol.. hehe.. am i gonna be ok with the m1 206 for 6 mos?? Or shoudl I change it within 3 mos and get the K&N? In 6 mos I'll prolly put around 3500 at most on the car..usually around 3000

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If it were me I'd change it to the K&N, which flows much better than the Mobil 1. I probably wouldn't even wait 3 months either.

 

[crashz]

Your M1 is fine for the 6 month changes. But go withthe K&N filte for the additional flow. As Patman mentioned D1 may slow the consuption and would have even better additives for you drain interval.

 

[Mike_dup1]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman: Mike, you should do some UOAs on that oil, it would be really interesting to see how the wear numbers would be on a gently driven LS1. All of the UOAs on here have been from hard driven LS1s. I'd be willing to bet your wear numbers are extremely low, most of the major wear metals would be in the 0.5-1.0ppm/1000 mile range I bet.

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My next change won't be until next Nov. (2004) and before anyone wonders over this, I have done it this way since 1977 using these lube, never a problem and think of all the money I saved? I never saved what I drained out earlier this month. It crossed my mind but I had better things to do at the time. [ November 19, 2003, 07:21 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by Mike:

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman: Mike, you should do some UOAs on that oil, it would be really interesting to see how the wear numbers would be on a gently driven LS1. All of the UOAs on here have been from hard driven LS1s. I'd be willing to bet your wear numbers are extremely low, most of the major wear metals would be in the 0.5-1.0ppm/1000 mile range I bet.

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My next change won't be until next Nov. (2004) and before anyone wonders over this, I have done it this way since 1977 using these lube, never a problem and think of all the money I saved? I never saved what I drained out earlier this month. It crossed my mind but I had better things to do at the time.

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I'm sorry we missed out on the chance to see your UOA this year. Maybe next November?

 

[Mike_dup1]

Yeah, I'll try to let you know so you can plan to come down here to Michigan and change it for me. ^ | | | Nipigon is just about due North of me.. [ November 19, 2003, 09:22 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]