Is not leaking oil changing the oil?

[raytseng]

Originally Posted By: ExMachina

Originally Posted By: TFB1

Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack

So if you're correct then I could just drain off a quart every thousand miles or so and add a quart. Then change the filter every year and my engine will last a couple of hundred thousand miles. You should keep the good ideas coming.

In true BITOG logic you could, though most of us prefer to do a complete change...

I think you could. For mitigation, use a full synth, and a great oil filter (change filter every 6 months).... I'd also change it ALL out every 3 or 4 years to be sure.

Well a standard oil change is basically 5/6ths of the oil out every time, you really never get it ALL. so it shouldn't make a difference. The problem is you're imagining black sludgy oil that you're changing and 1quart d/f isn't going to fix that. Instead if you're really going 1quart/1000miles, what you need to imagine is a perfectly almost clear dipstick and the quart you drain off looks almost identical to the quart you put in and brand new. Then the logic will match your imagination.

 

[Cardenio327]

Basic maintenance plan for making such a beater last forever: I have a friend whose put around 450,000 miles driving to jobsites on a used 1992 Jetta 1.8 that already had 150,000 miles on it when he got it. The car currently has over 600,000 miles on it with the engine in fair working order, but it is no longer driven due to a master cylinder issue. Chevron Supreme 10w-40 and Fram orange can of death filter changed ONCE per year. New timing belt every 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Repair anything else as soon as it acts or sounds strange. His secret to engine longevity isn't in the oil and filter changes. It is to keep the dipstick ALWAYS ABOVE THE ADD MARK NO MATTER WHAT.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: ExMachina

I think you could. For mitigation, use a full synth, and a great oil filter (change filter every 6 months).... I'd also change it ALL out every 3 or 4 years to be sure.

LOL from the description of said vehicle expecting 3 or 4 years may be a stretch... I wouldn't repl a filter more than once a year... Don't do so on my regular runners that OCI are approx 12-15 months...

Originally Posted By: Cardenio327

His secret to engine longevity isn't in the oil and filter changes. It is to keep the dipstick ALWAYS ABOVE THE ADD MARK NO MATTER WHAT.

I'll agree on engines with small sump but on a five, six or greater capacity system a couple quarts isn't going to make a real difference... My old F-150 doesn't get changed till it's close to two quarts low and thinks it's in heaven... When I got it there was less than a quart in the pan, would have thought that would have killed it but for almost three years has been fine... It only uses a quart in approx 3K mi, who knows when it was last changed before I got it... BTW it has ZERO drips, almost unbelievable...

 

[B20z]

Originally Posted By: ExMachina

Change the oil every 3 years. Filter every 1 year if its a Fram Ultra, other filters every 6 months.

Other good choices that are readily available: Napa gold (Wix), Purolator Syn, Mobil1 EP.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: raytseng

Well a standard oil change is basically 5/6ths of the oil out every time, you really never get it ALL. so it shouldn't make a difference.

Then why is it when most of us change oil in a four, five, six qt etc system, it requires approx same to refill?? I've pulled pan on several engines and rarely found more than a tea cup still hiding inside... On most engine it's only true if it has a oil cooler that may not drain completely...

 

[Cardenio327]

Originally Posted By: TFB1

Originally Posted By: raytseng

Well a standard oil change is basically 5/6ths of the oil out every time, you really never get it ALL. so it shouldn't make a difference.

Then why is it when most of us change oil in a four, five, six qt etc system, it requires approx same to refill?? I've pulled pan on several engines and rarely found more than a tea cup still hiding inside... On most engine it's only true if it has a oil cooler that may not drain completely...

There is also oil sitting in the oil pump, in the galleries, and in the heads---it all adds up. Compare the amount of oil listed in the repair manual for when the engine is installed with the amount for an oil and filter change---about 5:6.

 

[901Memphis]

That last little little bit in the bottle of the oil pan bothers me sometimes... If I have a partial quart laying around I'll dump it in the engine after all the old oil drains and it usually washes out some gunk.

 

[raytseng]

getting back to the original situation though, if the vehicle is consuming 1quart/1000miles; changing the oil is the least of the problems. There's other things going on, and if those root issues aren't fixed, the vehicle is going to fail from other errors regardless of if the oil was topped off or if the oil and filter were changed.

 

[ExMachina]

Originally Posted By: Joshua_Skinner

Cummins automated the process, Mr. Smart Guy. https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/qsol/products/newparts/centinel.html

Wow, that Centinel is a mind-blower! Only works in a diesel. I had a similar idea, kind of anyway: Works in a gasoline engine or diesel of course: When the 'Low Oil Level Switch' trips, a spare reservoir squirts a fresh quart of oil in as you drive. Some cars can sense low oil level, and I guess its better than waiting for the oil pressure light to light up!

 

[BowNisPar]

Originally Posted By: raytseng

getting back to the original situation though, if the vehicle is consuming 1quart/1000miles; changing the oil is the least of the problems. There's other things going on, and if those root issues aren't fixed, the vehicle is going to fail from other errors regardless of if the oil was topped off or if the oil and filter were changed.

Not according to BMW/Subaru drivers.

 

[spk2000]

Light ends of the oil burn off leaving behind a heavier grade along with contaminants. You keep topping off and contaminants could build up. If the contaminants are in the lighter oils burning off then they would leave. Depends on the oil and it's consistency. Synthetics have a much more consistent molecular chain length and weight than conventional oils.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Cardenio327

Originally Posted By: TFB1

Originally Posted By: raytseng

Well a standard oil change is basically 5/6ths of the oil out every time, you really never get it ALL. so it shouldn't make a difference.

Then why is it when most of us change oil in a four, five, six qt etc system, it requires approx same to refill?? I've pulled pan on several engines and rarely found more than a tea cup still hiding inside... On most engine it's only true if it has a oil cooler that may not drain completely...

There is also oil sitting in the oil pump, in the galleries, and in the heads---it all adds up. Compare the amount of oil listed in the repair manual for when the engine is installed with the amount for an oil and filter change---about 5:6.

OK if you say so, but I contend there won't be more than a pint in most engines... Heads hold what, maybe 2oz each?? Valley and oil pump approx same each, oil pan, maybe 6oz, that's 12oz plus maybe 1/3oz oil in each lifter/lash adjuster for a v8, that totalss a little over 17oz.. What about galleys you say??(which would be the greatest single amount) Assuming a hot engine, that oil will flow back through the main & rod bearings, then into pan to be drained before you can change the filter...

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: spk2000

Light ends of the oil burn off leaving behind a heavier grade along with contaminants. You keep topping off and contaminants could build up. If the contaminants are in the lighter oils burning off then they would leave. Depends on the oil and it's consistency. Synthetics have a much more consistent molecular chain length and weight than conventional oils.

You're talking about oil evaporation due to excessive heat rather than burning(yes there is a difference)... A droplet of oil that gets by worn rings or valve stem seals will be unaltered with contaminates burned along with the oil... If engine has a large amount of blow by, then the oil may be heated on cylinder walls to the point some does evaporate or coke... Anyway makes no difference in this thread, as OP says it's LEAKING...

 

[Cardenio327]

Originally Posted By: TFB1

Originally Posted By: Cardenio327

Originally Posted By: TFB1

Originally Posted By: raytseng

Well a standard oil change is basically 5/6ths of the oil out every time, you really never get it ALL. so it shouldn't make a difference.

Then why is it when most of us change oil in a four, five, six qt etc system, it requires approx same to refill?? I've pulled pan on several engines and rarely found more than a tea cup still hiding inside... On most engine it's only true if it has a oil cooler that may not drain completely...

There is also oil sitting in the oil pump, in the galleries, and in the heads---it all adds up. Compare the amount of oil listed in the repair manual for when the engine is installed with the amount for an oil and filter change---about 5:6.

OK if you say so, but I contend there won't be more than a pint in most engines... Heads hold what, maybe 2oz each?? Valley and oil pump approx same each, oil pan, maybe 6oz, that's 12oz plus maybe 1/3oz oil in each lifter/lash adjuster for a v8, that totalss a little over 17oz.. What about galleys you say??(which would be the greatest single amount) Assuming a hot engine, that oil will flow back through the main & rod bearings, then into pan to be drained before you can change the filter...

According to the service manual for my Honda NX4 motorcycle a little bit more than 13 oz. get left in the motor when the oil & filter are changed. The owner's manual for my Honda Fit shows about 19 ounces. I guess you're right for small engines.