Is it possible to have an oil filter that is too efficient

B

BrianApp

Joined
Jun 22, 2016
Messages
62
Location
MI
In looking for an oil filter for a Buick lacrosse I just stuck with the factory filter, PF63. Some comments here said they didn't like it because it was only rated to filter down to .28 microns. At first look I thought smaller filtration is better but if the fibers clog up faster causing the oil to bypass the filter entirely and go though the bypass valve then it becomes useless. Given that they rate the filter good for 2,000 - 7,0000 mi maybe they considered this as well. If they chose a smaller pore filter material maybe it would have clogged up faster then the average person would replace it. Letting particles smaller than .28 microns through might be better than having it clog up before it would be replaced and the oil be forced through the bypass valve making the filter useless at that point.
So which is it? Is stopping particles >.28 microns a good comprise for filter life or is it just a way to cheap it out?
 
We have so many people stressing about oil filters , a properly maintained engine running quickie lube change oil and low end filters , barring parts failure outlasts the vehicle it is in. The most important filter is the air filter and a sealed intake. . Although the oil filter failing is a concern though. Buying a name brand filter is what should be the concern if a filter related problem happens.
 
Filters have a couple of layers so larger particles are caught in outer layers and smaller particles get through to the inner layers. And some filters may last longer than others due to filter materials used and others have better quality due to a heaver base, thicker metal for the can, silicone ADBV. But regular oil changes with name brand oil & filters will get the engine to 200K miles. Maybe more.

I would not fret over the efficiency ratings.
 
PF63 is steel. PF63E has a nylon cage. PF63F is a fleet filter. All are 25-30 micron i think.

Save a buck or so and get a SuperTech.. Spend a Buck or so and buy a Fram Ultra.. your car wont know the difference.

All this reference to 'Clogging' would mean that you are either doing a serious flush of some sorts, or changing oil at 30000 miles or have some kind of major blockage somewhere in the crankcase ventilation.
 
I am just guessing at the "clogging" reason. If it is rated for 2 - 7,000 miles the only thing I can thing of is filter material saturation. I too was wondering why there were such strong opinons about the PF63 filter quality. Some saying it was junk and they would never use it because it stopped at .28 microns. Despite what some people think I believe the engineers spec parts like filters to make their engines last the longest. If I was on the engineering team I would never sign off on a filter designed to wear the engine so they can sell more cars.
 
Donald said:
But regular oil changes with name brand oil & filters will get the engine to 200K miles. Maybe more.

I would not fret over the efficiency ratings.
Click to expand...

Makes me think my 350,000 no problem camry is even better. Someone once told me the cheapest thing you can do to have the biggest effect on engine life is just change the oil on time. 3,000 OCI with any name brand oil and the toyota OEM filter has been money well spent. Sure I could probably save $40 a year and go up to 5,000 OCI but when I roll over 500,000 MI with no internal engine work I will be OK with that "extra" $40 spent on engine maintenance.
 
BrianApp said:
Makes me think my 350,000 no problem camry is even better. Someone once told me the cheapest thing you can do to have the biggest effect on engine life is just change the oil on time. 3,000 OCI with any name brand oil and the toyota OEM filter has been money well spent. Sure I could probably save $40 a year and go up to 5,000 OCI but when I roll over 500,000 MI with no internal engine work I will be OK with that "extra" $40 spent on engine maintenance.
Click to expand...
Or you could do a UOA every 500 miles past 3000 up to 7500 and find the "sweet spot" of when its good to change oil.

Well there are actually two things. Buy a car like a Camry that will run a long time on basic maintenance. And change oil at reasonable interval.
 
If you want a high efficiency oil filter, then just buy one. Cleaner oil is better than not.

"Rated down to 28μ" (not 0.28μ) is pretty open ended an nebulous.

If you're worried about "clogging", then get a filter with a high holding capacity rating or change it accordingly. Lots of full synthetic media oil filters are high efficiency and high holding capacity.
 
Last edited:
Donald said:
Or you could do a UOA every 500 miles past 3000 up to 7500 and find the "sweet spot" of when its good to change oil.

Well there are actually two things. Buy a car like a Camry that will run a long time on basic maintenance. And change oil at reasonable interval.
Click to expand...
There's nothing filtration related that a standard UOA would show.
 
If you're worried about bypass events ever occurring and you live in Michigan... I've got some bad news for you about what's most likely happening when you turn your car over on the coldest days of winter.
 
blufeb95 said:
If you're worried about bypass events ever occurring and you live in Michigan... I've got some bad news for you about what's most likely happening when you turn your car over on the coldest days of winter.
Click to expand...
I am not concerned about cold start bypass. In about 10 min it warms up and goes through the filter. I was wondering why so many people thought the PF63 was such bad filter because it only went down to 28 microns and what reason the engineers may have had to choose that spec for their factory filters. Cold oil eventually warms up and gets filtered. A full filter stops filtering. If you drive another 2,000 mi on a filter that is essentially not doing anything that could be a problem.
 
Zee09 said:
That is why they designed the MC FL 820's.
When it gets clogged the media tears to allow for more flow thus making user intervention unnecessary.
Very high tech for $4
Click to expand...


^^^^^^^^^↑^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Post of the month to this point.

:LOL:
 
BrianApp said:
I am not concerned about cold start bypass. In about 10 min it warms up and goes through the filter. I was wondering why so many people thought the PF63 was such bad filter because it only went down to 28 microns and what reason the engineers may have had to choose that spec for their factory filters. Cold oil eventually warms up and gets filtered. A full filter stops filtering. If you drive another 2,000 mi on a filter that is essentially not doing anything that could be a problem.
Click to expand...

I dont think the engine makers designed the filter. They determined the minimum amount of filtration that will get the car past the warranty period and keep the filters cheap. Sure they could make an expensive and super-efficient filter, but that's not cost effective.
 
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