Is it ok to run M1 0W-20 in a 90 2.0L sunbird.

[Rick]

I was looking at the specs on the M1 site and it sayed that the oil poured at -50c. Which is realy good, now I'm obviously not going to run this oil in the summer months because I would think it's to thin for an engine with some use.

So how about it. But winter isn't for another 6 months

 

[JohnnyO]

No.

 

[G-MAN]

I wouldn't run it in an engine this old, even in the winter. Stick with 5w30.

 

[Jelly]

quote:

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Originally posted by Rick:
I was looking at the specs on the M1 site and it sayed that the oil poured at -50c. Which is realy good, now I'm obviously not going to run this oil in the summer months because I would think it's to thin for an engine with some use.

So how about it. But winter isn't for another 6 months

---

Are you really gonna have any problems using M1 5w-30 in winter? It can't get THAT cold...

 

[Sin City]

The last time someone from BOBISTHEOILGUY tried using a 0W-20 oil (and did a UOA) in an old car that called for 5W-30 motor oil the results were terrible! Look at the lead PPM amount.

web page

 

[Rick]

To all who replied, thanks for the info..
I will stay clear of the baby oil

 

[Cutehumor]

I wouldn't use it either. your risking seal leaks. I used QS syn back in 1999 on a 87 toyota corolla with 175k miles that took dino all it's life. I must have leaked almost all of it out because the engine started knockin with the oil in the sump was almost empty after a week of the oil change The oil that was left was very black

[ May 18, 2004, 12:26 PM: Message edited by: Cutehumor ]

 

[ekpolk]

Don't do it. In the relatively short time I've been a member here, I've learned a lot. Although I haven't become a zealot convert, I'm a lot more comfortable with 5w-20 than I was two months ago, when used in an intended application. Of course, I'm still looking to see how the UOAs trend for older cars in coming years. Here's why you should stay away, IMO:

1) Your car doesn't call for it. I was desinged to maintain oil pressure and function well with thicker stuff. The oil makers are very aware of this and concerned to some degree, hence the warnings on most xw-20 bottles to use it only in intended applications.

2) Your engine in its presently worn state is likely to be even less tolerant of the thinner oil than it would have been when new.

3) Relative benefit: there are plenty of superb oils available to you, in an appropriate grade, that will interact well with your engine. The grass is NOT greener on the other side of this fence.

Use 0w-20 in this car ONLY IF your are willing to make yourself the subject of your own unscientific science experiment. Be careful, and good luck whatever you do.

[ May 18, 2004, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: ekpolk ]

 

[G-MAN]

quote:

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Originally posted by Sin City:
The last time someone from BOBISTHEOILGUY tried using a 0W-20 oil (and did a UOA) in an old car that called for 5W-30 motor oil the results were terrible! Look at the lead PPM amount.

---

Yes, but the WAY the guy drives (racing and very hard normal driving) had a lot to do with it, too. I'm not sure his numbers would have been all that good with any oil given the age, the mods, the mileage, and the way he drives.

 

[Racerjk]

Try a high mileage oil in your 2.0 liter!! I have a '90 Sunbird with the same engine with 144k miles on it. I always used regular 5w30 QS until my last oil change. I tried QS high mileage 5w30 and also put in Valvoline Maxlife Engine Protector. The engine is absolutely smooth as silk. Engine noise is way,way,way down. At freeway speeds, the engine used to be incredibly loud even though it ran great. Now it is dead smooth and quiet. I couldn't believe the difference.

 

[T-Keith]

I had a 2.0 OHC (TB version). It's a pretty decent engine(except for timing belts), but pretty gutless.
I never had a problem running 5w30 Mobil. Ran smooth, and got decent mileage(28mpg), but my 2.5 beats it in almost every catagory.

-T