Is it normal for a new wheel hub to have heat marks on it?

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Does anyone have any idea if hub assemblies are supposed to have blueing on them out of the box?

My second assembly failed and the only issue I can think of is both assemblies look like they took a lot of heat to them around the center of the bearing.
 

3800Fan

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It's on the car. It's actual heat marks on the hub. Both of mine from parts authority/rockauto came with marks that are consistent with a used bearing that got too hot.
 

D60

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Wow the 2nd failed? You and GON are in the running for worst luck of the year.

Can you provide pics of the blueing/HAZ? I could swear I've read this can be a normal part of the assembly process but I couldn't cite a credible source to support my questionable memory. It takes surprisingly little heat to blue a silver, freshly machined surface, but I'm kinda curious if it's a light, almost translucent blue or a deep blue?
 
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Totally normal, the blue is from heat treatment, they are induction hardened. Why yours fail one after the other i have no idea, 3 failures inc the original one after the other is not normal. Either you have bad luck with new parts which is possible or something else is really wrong.

heat treatment.jpg
 
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3800Fan

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Totally normal, the blue is from heat treatment, they are induction hardened. Why yours fail one after the other i have no idea, 3 failures inc the original one after the other is not normal. Either you have bad luck with new parts which is possible or something else is really wrong.

View attachment 105722
I'm gonna have to buy a new torque wrench and see what happens. I also had a trans mount fail recently, car wanders at high speed, hear creaking noises when I put in park for a few minutes. Might just offload it at a dealership somewhere.
 

3800Fan

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I just learned how to pay attention. I was away for a while and left my tools in the care of someone else. They must've overloaded the living crap out of my digital torque adapter because after reading the directions online and finding out what the err meant that pops up on the display is obvious the reading is way off.

Err means someone exceeded the 147 ft lb max torque by 110%
 
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I just learned how to pay attention. I was away for a while and left my tools in the care of someone else. They must've overloaded the living crap out of my digital torque adapter because after reading the directions online and finding out what the err meant that pops up on the display is obvious the reading is way off.

Err means someone exceeded the 147 ft lb max torque by 110%
So now you know what blew the bearings up. I suggest this TW, no resetting to zero easy to read and durable. The one from Precision has gone up over $100 in the past year but this one seems test good and almost the same. It may or may not not last as long or stay as accurate in prof use but more than good enough for DIY and you can use a coupon.



 
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3800Fan

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Settled for a Husky torque wrench that was half off. $54 dollars vs $130 dollars. Also I don't think my second hub went bad afterall. No noise.
 
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So now you know what blew the bearings up. I suggest this TW, no resetting to zero easy to read and durable. The one from Precision has gone up over $100 in the past year but this one seems test good and almost the same. It may or may not not last as long or stay as accurate in prof use but more than good enough for DIY and you can use a coupon.




That icon looks very close to the precision one I have. You think they make it for HF?
IMG_20220711_200734797.jpg
IMG_20220711_200806591.jpg
 
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