Is DEFY (API SL) okay in a newer car?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
i would check and change it. 1qt per 3000 is very minor and very normal for some cars. that little bit of usage is actually sometimes an ok thing. i would change the pcv valve though . the defy will not hurt your car at all. keep in mind the certifications are from the govt (basically) it doesn't meet the energy conservation part of it and it has zinc. neither matter much. if you continue to burn oil or my term use it i wouldn't use it but its fine if its in there i would change it at 3k and go to something else . personally i like valvoline they make excellent oil and are a great company. they even help sponsor the school i am at. they're pretty good to the auto industry as a whole.


Thanks for the reply. I will change the PCV valve soon. I will also go with MaxLife next time. That was my original plan, then I saw th DEFY and went with it on a whim. I usually use M1, but wanted to try a HM oil.

When I was 16 to 21 years old, I did all of my own car maintenance/repair. I was broke and my family has a lot of mechanics. Now I have a good income, I change my own oil, but have been paying mechanics for everything else. Recently, car repair has slowly became a hobby of mine and I am getting more comfortable doing things on my own again. Recently repaired my rear defroster, changed all my wifes plugs and wires (quite a challenge) and next weekend I am going to attempt my first brake job in 10 years. Might as well add replacing a PCV valve to that list.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
pcv is easy the plugs on v6 cars suck. brakes are easy just take your time


The Plugs on my wifes Malibu took me 2 hours. It was tough, but I am super rusty. 10 years ago I would have tackled it no problem. I've just gotten used to paying to have these things done. I tell you what, it was incredibly satisfying doing it myself though.

I was going to pay to have the brakes done, but decided to do it myself. Riding the high of being successful on the plugs. Plus, I've done brakes and rotors many times, it's just been a long time. I watched some youtube videos and it all came back to me. Shouldn't be a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: 360kid
Originally Posted By: BR549
it slowed the consumption issue on my '05 Silverado 5.3L from a quart every 1800-2000 miles to a quart every 3500-4000 miles.....but your results may vary
smile.gif
10w-30 flavor


Since your Silverado is an '05, it too probably takes API SM oil or GM6094M. You have been using DEFY with good luck then?


No issues at all, same gas mileage as before DEFY...no problems just less consumption
smile.gif
 
What engine does your 2007 Impala have? Just wondered because if it has either the 3.9 or it is an SS it is probably burning oil due to the Active Fuel Management that shuts down half the cylinders. I have a 2007 LTZ with the 3.9 that burns oil because of it and am having a PCM tune done to get rid of that feature to see if the oil burning goes away. Also on a side note the PCV system is not serviceable in these engines it is part of the valve cover I believe.
 
it didnt register that you have a 2007 . it may not have a pcv . what a dumb design though. either way 1qt per 3000 miles isdnt much
 
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
it didnt register that you have a 2007 . it may not have a pcv . what a dumb design though. either way 1qt per 3000 miles isdnt much


I have the 3.5 Flex Fuel (K) and I too realized that there isn't a serviceable PCV valve. I went to Autozone.com to see what one costs and low and behold, no pcv valve.
 
I wouldn't use it. The oil you use must be certified by the API, must be 5W-30, and must meet the GM6094M spec.

Online owner's manual page 314:
http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/chevrolet/2007-Chevrolet-Impala.pdf
Originally Posted By: 360kid
I have a 2007 Impala which requires API SM and GM6094M. I bought QS DEFY on a whim and put it in and then realized it is only API SL. I browsed the previous threads on DEFY and didn't get a straight answer. Is DEFY okay for a newer car with the "as mentioned" oil requirements?

Thanks.
 
Thank you for the correction Volk06. I should have checked before I posted.

Originally Posted By: volk06
Originally Posted By: mongo161
The Quaker State Defy in SL only comes in the 10w-40 grade.


No it doesn't. My local walmart has SL 5w-20 and 5/10w-30 as well. The 10w-40 is the only SN rated version because it can have higher levels due to higher ZDDP and P limits.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257...0840-312312.pdf
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
should be ok

its rated SL because it has extra additives not because its inferior.

and GM6094M isnt very demanding regular conventional oils can meet it. Havoline for example.

so the short answer is should be fine.

Technical answer is no it doesnt meet your specs.

using common sense I would say its fine but I wouldnt go out of my way to use it in the future.


+1 Unless your car burns oil, I would use PYB or QGB. Both stout oils and will suit your application.
 
More woo is me, the sky is going to fall if you use something other than what the book says, basically it ain't gonna happen...

The caking in the oil fill cap is likely sludge/carbon build up caused by blow-by, considering that a HM oil is likely a good choice...
 
Defy is fine to use on newer cars..... It would take a long time for that extra bit of ZDDP to effect your CC..

It is a very good oil and the cost is great. Use it with confidence.

Another good choice would be PYB HM oil in whatever weight your car calls for.
 
Last edited:
There is too much ZDDP in this oil to meet API SN or SM in the grade you're using.
This is also the reason that the FAR VR1 synthetic I used in the Forester in the summer of '11 is an API SL oil.
Nothing to do with the basestocks or anything else.
There is a lot of discussion of cat poisoning, but bear in mind that OBDII has existed since the days of API SJ oils, and cat poisoning never did seem to be a big issue for most makes and models.
Heck, cat cons have been used in most cars since 1975, when, IIRC, the API spec was SE.
Anyway, I'd suggest that you try Maxlife, red or green bottle, doesn't matter.
It is an API SN oil and it does seem to perform really well both as an oil and as one that reduces consumption.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top