Is any using their own "blend"

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I would suggest that one may want to beef up a production blend by adding a quart of synthetic. For example, I could put 5 qts of Valvoline Durablend and one of Synpower in my pickup. That should give me a slightly more robust oil and should improve winter starts. Valvoline makes a synthetic additive (PAO I think) called Synpower Engine Treatment that is similar to regular oil in viscosity (unlike the Synpower Oil Ttmt which is rather thicker)which could be used to beef up the blend.
 
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I'll be going to 50/50 Amsoil 15W-40/Pennz LL 15W-40 real soon....I was gonna do it at the 5K mark of this OCI with Amsoil 15W-40, but I've been busy and suddenly I'm approaching 7.5K miles [freaknout] Car is my usual 245,000 mile 85 Volvo turbo wagon 245Ti.......
 

driven2services

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I use 5.5 quarts of Chevron Supreme and 1 quart of Havoline synthetic. Cheaper than any synthetic blend you can buy and I know exactly how much synthetic is actually in there.
 
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After 286,000 km on his pulsar with M1, my father wasn't prepared to pay the recent price rises (up nearly $12 per 5 litres, making it $70 for oil and filter). So I gave him my last 6 litres of the drum of Delvac 1 (I picked up SH D-1 at $40 cash for 20l, and can't use Delvac in my new car). So he's running 1.5 litres D-1 to 3.5 litres of Longlife.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Alan: with part synthetic and part dino? If so,whats the ratio and brands you use?
I think this is an excercise in futility for me since I'm not an expert. Improving on blends like Shaeffer's, Castrol Syntec Blend, Mobil Drive Clean Synthetic Blend HM, etc. is a waste of time. It's complex chemistry and each is formulated in it's own right. No witches' brews for me. [No no]
 

Alan

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Wouldn't using a qt of M1 in a dino oil change help stabilise the oil?
 

Alan

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I mean the quality synthetic added(lets say 20%)will help in controlling oxidation and breakdown. [ March 12, 2004, 09:01 AM: Message edited by: Alan ]
 
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I've done some backyard blending ... you know, back in the day. [Wink] Adding a true PAO synthetic to mineral oils seemed to work well at making the machine easier to start as well as stabilizing oil consumption under hard use. However, most "synthetics" these days are Group III and blending a little Group III or a blend of Group III/GroupII/Group II+ is basically gonna give you a decent mineral oil. Nothing more. It's about as effective as blending Polan Spring water with Deer Park or Aquafina trying to find just the "right" mix. In almost every case, you're accomplishing next to nothing. [I dont know] And aftermarket additive blending is very cost-ineffective so that's not the way to go either. [Razz] --- Bror Jace
 

Alan

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Who says it has to be a group 3 "synthetic"?.I'm talking about using M1 as the synthetic in the blend.
 
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i use 4 wts of mobil 1 10w30 and 1 qt of delo 15-40. i'm at about 7k now, and i may do a UOA at 7.5 or 8k. this is in a 1999 acura rl 3.5liter.
 
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Alan, If I were still considering doing this, I'd do a 50/50 mix (or close to it) of Mobil's Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 with M1 0W-40. But after I asked nearly the same question, I realized I could get way better protection for hardly any more money (only $6.50) by going with straight M1 0W-40. (Then Mobil came out with their new 5W-40 in my area, & I'll be using this instead.) My intervals are currently at 10k miles, but I'm thinking two of my cars could easily go 20k miles (with filter swaps at 10k) on the new 5W-40.
 
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