Is an extended interval oil better than a standard one if changing at short interval?
- Thread starter OppositeLocK
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What exactly, are you trying to show?
PPM and...more is better? Without knowing what those additives actually are? Or how they perform? It’s a meaningless graph from an unknown source.
I could dump a couple of Tums in the oil, double the PPM calcium, and you would have a new “best” oil using the above criteria...because, you know, it has more PPM...
I believe you are referring to the effect of tribochemical barrier/layer being washed away by the fresh ad pack and the tendencies for wear rates to drop over the duration of longer OCI's.
If you search for poster Dnewton3 and "tribochemical" he goes into great detail about this and his posts should answer all your questions.
UD
I agree with this. Run Castrol Edge against M1 AP both to 20,000 mi and see if the Edge is really superior. We realized 20 years ago you couldn't tell how an oil would perform by looking at the VOA. At least the VOA we are talking about.
No that wouldn't work because then they wouldn't match the API SN or SN plus classification.
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$50 site donor 2024
Reminds me of the MACT videos (VOA) where it’s a rolling PPM count … one had a PPM iron to its credit
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Sorry brother, you lost me at Project Farm
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You're not a fan?
The only extended interval oil I have ever used is Mobil 1 EP 0w20 and I have had good results with it up to 13,000 miles in my 2018 Subaru. That being said two intervals later the engine began showing signs of a developing oil consumption issue which has only gotten worse with more time and miles. My next OCI will be using Mobil 1 EP 0w20 and I plan on driving until the low oil light comes on. With other oils I can get upwards of about 7000 miles.
As far as price goes, buying Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is not hurting my wallet. The Great Walmart of China normally sells Mobil 1 EP 0w20 for about $25 and I only buy it when a rebate is available, right now it is $12 for M1EP. Otherwise I can buy Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 for $23 with a $10 rebate so aside from probably less than a dollar's worth of difference in sales tax I will always choose to go with EP over AFE. And AFE is a darn good oil as well.
As far as price goes, buying Mobil 1 EP 0w20 is not hurting my wallet. The Great Walmart of China normally sells Mobil 1 EP 0w20 for about $25 and I only buy it when a rebate is available, right now it is $12 for M1EP. Otherwise I can buy Mobil 1 AFE 0w20 for $23 with a $10 rebate so aside from probably less than a dollar's worth of difference in sales tax I will always choose to go with EP over AFE. And AFE is a darn good oil as well.
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No.
There is a reason why the API and OEMs have standardized tests. Not some guy in his garage with a one armed bandit testing machine making it up as he goes along.
You miss the point.
“it has more” is your criteria.
But the analysis, and thus your graph, only shows elements, not actual additives. It doesn’t measure performance, only quantity of elements. Those elements exist in complex chemistry, not just as raw elements, and it’s the performance of the chemistry that matters, not the quantity of raw elements.
So, your graph is judging oil on that basis, quantity alone, which is specious and inaccurate.
To use an analogy, one judges writing by how the letters are put together, not by just the number of letters. You’re measuring the number of letters, ignoring vocabulary, sentence structure, grammar, syntax...and saying more letters is better writing, but that’s inaccurate and misleading.
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Project Farm doesn't know anything about what constitutes a valid test nor a valid analysis of oil quality. You don't evaluate oils they way they do and they display a fundamental lack of scientific knowledge about how it's actually done. And hint, Blackstone doesn't do it either. Not a criticism of what Blackstone does but that isn't their mission nor their competency.
It's worse than useless since people believe this stuff and make subsequent purchase decisions based on their worthless presentations.
It's worse than useless since people believe this stuff and make subsequent purchase decisions based on their worthless presentations.
Not much to add to that
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Yep, nailed it
If you want to have some real fun look at the additive levels of a VW 502.00 / 507.00 certified oil. It requires lower wear rates, better stability and the ability to do 20,000 mi drains to the OEM satisfaction. Then compare it to some of the oils in that list.
I agree, too many variables to give an answer. Different engines, different driving routines/habits, different ambient temps/operating environments, different quality oil filters, etc. Also consider the increased risk of introducing foreign material into the engine with more frequent oil/filter services.
All things being equal, the EP oil might protect a little better than the "standard" oil over a normal service interval, but you'd have to go many hundreds of thousands of miles to experience any real difference between the two. Not worth considering but an interesting question. That's why we hear so often "use an oil with the recommended spec and change at regular intervals." That's about as much as the average owner needs to do for a long life out of the engine, with regard to the oil anyway.
All things being equal, the EP oil might protect a little better than the "standard" oil over a normal service interval, but you'd have to go many hundreds of thousands of miles to experience any real difference between the two. Not worth considering but an interesting question. That's why we hear so often "use an oil with the recommended spec and change at regular intervals." That's about as much as the average owner needs to do for a long life out of the engine, with regard to the oil anyway.