Is an extended interval oil better than a standard one if changing at short interval?

[OppositeLocK]

For example, Castrol Edge and Castrol Edge EP. Let's say one is recommended for 5K while the other can go 10K.

If you change both at 5K, is the wear, breakdown, etc. the same? Or does the standard oil protect better than the extended version until that point?

Basically, is the performance of the oil the exact same except the extended one can be run longer?

 

[Rand]

too generic.

Specific engines would have different results.

putting edge or edge bp in a port injected 2L 150hp engine is much different than a TGDI 2.3 300hp engine for example.

 

[BISCUT]

Agree. Most decisions are engine specific.

 

[blupupher]

"Extended drain" oils tend to have more anti-wear properties and "better" base stock to go the distance.
For most engines, using an extended drain oil for a regular interval really does not gain anything, but does not hurt anything either (except your wallet).

 

[OilUzer]

... Or does the standard oil protect better than the extended version until that point? ...

Did you mean to say does the extended oil protect better than the standard?

let's assume one oil is near end of it's life by the end of oci and another (extended) is not near the end of it's life or half way there.
Which oil would you want in your engine?

I would say the extended but I'm making a lot of assumptions without any data. I would feel better with something that is not near death in my engine.

btw, I use M1 EP (15K oil) and dump it at 7.5K so I may not be the best person to answer this question. lol

 

[Gene K]

All else being equal (it seldom is) the oil with more additives may leave more deposits when burnt or evaporated away.

I'm not convinced that Castrol Edge 5W-30 and Edge EP have significant basestock differences. I would likely go with regular Edge if they both were adequate for the proposed interval.

 

[CPA1989]

I actually asked XOM this exact question the other day. Here’s their response:


Thanks for writing to us. At this point, I don't believe we make any claims of better protection, just LONGER protection in miles from Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

For increased protection over the same interval as Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, you might consider Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. This is another 10,000 mile oil like Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, but with a more robust additive package for engines seeing heavy duty use.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...roducts/products/mobil-1-truck-and-suv-0w-20/

I hope this helps.

Thank you for choosing Mobil,
Jim
Mobil Help Desk Team Lead

 

[demarpaint]

I actually asked XOM this exact question the other day. Here’s their response:


Thanks for writing to us. At this point, I don't believe we make any claims of better protection, just LONGER protection in miles from Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

For increased protection over the same interval as Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, you might consider Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. This is another 10,000 mile oil like Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy, but with a more robust additive package for engines seeing heavy duty use.
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...roducts/products/mobil-1-truck-and-suv-0w-20/

I hope this helps.

Thank you for choosing Mobil,
Jim
Mobil Help Desk Team Lead

I asked that question to Pennzoil as well as XOM years ago, and got a similar reply. In the case of XOM there are more robust oils than AFE, I'd be more inclined to use one of those offerings. In the case of XOM my homework lead me to ESP, which IMO is probably the best, if not one of the best oils in their line up, however it is not considered an "extended drain interval" product.

 

[doublebase]

Used to know a guy who always mentioned the “sweet spot” in oil changes. He said at the beginning of an oil change (first 2,000 miles) the additives were actually causing more wear than later, after they have fallen out of the oil. He believed the ”sweet spot” for the oil and filter was between 5,000 - 7,000 miles. I think he’d change it around 8,000-10,000 miles.

I never agreed with him on this. Then he told me he only drove his car 5,000 miles a year and I thought...you don’t even drive you car and you’re talking about sweet spots? But that was his theory and I have heard others say the same.

So I wonder if with a extended drain interval oil, might it be not a good thing to drain it early? If, you believe in the “sweet spot”, I guess you might think that. But I don’t.

 

[xyxptlx]

As Yogi used to say, when you come to a choice of oil with short OCI, take it.

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

Here's how this works in a tribological scenario in hopes to clear up some of the "mystery" here. This is essentially how a machines lubrication schema is initially baselined.

First- the individual characteristics of the application ( both the design and build plus the operating conditions- both of those have hundreds of sub variables) determine what qualities/additives a lubricant must have to maintain the proper lubrication regime.

Second- the operation of said application determines the "consumption" ( for lack of a better word) of the qualities in the oil.

Third- The application is fatigue assessed ( how much and how deep is usually an IP issue so we will never know for sure) but with that being said, the common denominator will be expressed in application specific terms such as revolutions, cycles etc. This is an important distinction with a difference because none of them directly correlate with "mileage" so there's a built in ambiguity from the start with no direct correlation to the specific application's L-10 life.

So, for simplicity's sake lets say oil "X" has a viscosity of "Y" @ ?F and has 1000 units of anti wear additive. ( then substitute as you wish)

If the joint at 100% of design takes 10 units to maintain- then that's what it will consume during operation relative to the L-10 life.

If either the design parameters or operating parameters change- that amount will change as well. ( how much is a guess unless detailed analysis is conducted)

Then you have normal degradation of the joint ( and the oil)- both combined introduce more variables into the equation which will usually lead to increased consumption at a greater velocity.

Obviously, all of these cannot be estimated on the front end and built in and testing to measure them will be time consuming and prohibitively expensive.

That's an extreme oversimplification of a very detailed and complex subject but illustrates the high points relative to the OP points.

Except in cases of extreme deviation from design- the norm is that additional additives beyond design requirements to extend oil changes can do just that ( within reason) but the presence of "extra stuff" does NOT add any significant degree of insurance or additional protection because they will just sit there floating until consumed or degraded.

In simpler terms, the joint requirements determine consumption of properties and energy imparted into an oil- the oil does not and can not "force" its "enhanced qualities" on the joint.

Hope that helps clear this up some but that's why XOM and others give that answer- because its correct.

 

[OilUzer]

If someone invents a mini uoa gauge (showing for example tbn, cSt, etc.) for the car, they would make a lot of money on bitog.

but wait, I think quick lubes have already invented one for non-bitog members. It's called every 3000 miles.

 

[Rytautas]

I'd like to hear more about a bigger additive package adding to more wear at the beginning. If that were the case maybe Mobil 1 would be the best as it tends to have a weaker additive package than most others aside from supertech.

 

[Gene K]

I'd like to hear more about a bigger additive package adding to more wear at the beginning. If that were the case maybe Mobil 1 would be the best as it tends to have a weaker additive package than most others aside from supertech.

I have no way of knowing which exact adds EM is using since a budget analysis only identifies a basic category not to mention adds that don't show at all. I can't say how you would categorize their treatment levels.

I find the trend lines more helpful. As long as for instance iron numbers continue a downward trajectory per hour, mile or gallon of fuel (however you track use) I consider the oil still good.

When I compared the VOA of one of the board favorite D1G2 Oils to ST Synthetic. The ST had about 25% higher numbers across board so I'm not sure what makes you believe ST is lower. It may be as once again we are only looking at basic categories and that doesn't tell the whole story.

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

I'd like to hear more about a bigger additive package adding to more wear at the beginning. If that were the case maybe Mobil 1 would be the best as it tends to have a weaker additive package than most others aside from supertech.

Where is this claim made at?

 

[PimTac]

I'd like to hear more about a bigger additive package adding to more wear at the beginning. If that were the case maybe Mobil 1 would be the best as it tends to have a weaker additive package than most others aside from supertech.

What?

 

[kschachn]

What?

New member, joined yesterday, and one of the first things is to disparage two brands with a silly comment. You figure it out.

 

[wpod]

Yes, no and maybe. But why would it be better other than if the base oil was stronger [film strength if that would be proper terminology] which pao isn't or the additive level is higher .

 

[Gene K]

Yes, no and maybe. But why would it be better other than if the base oil was stronger [film strength if that would be proper terminology] which pao isn't or the additive level is higher .

Yet Castrol advertising claims they both perform exactly the same other than Drain Interval. Without knowing the exact compounds used (basic elements doesn't tell us that) or compounds you can't see (such as often used in Low SAPS oils) we are left to speculate.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

No, just a waste of money

Napa Synthetic is $3.39/qt for a few more days