Is all this really worth the effort?

[1977c10phxdriver]

I caught the "got to have the best for my new engine" fever around Christmas. I had just built a roller 400 for my sons truck, then my 350 for my '77 truck. I carefully did my breakin and then after about 1000 miles, installed a bypass filter, top quality synthetic oil and good spin on filter. I was going for the 25,000 mile oil changes.

Well, a friend of mine stopped by 2 nights ago. He's got a '97 chevy 3/4 ton truck. Vortec 350. It now has 201,000 miles, never had the valve covers off, never had a problem, uses minimal oil between changes, doesn't smoke or knock and has had the cheap crap Jiffy Lube oil changes and junky filters since day one.

I guess my question is, besides not having quite so much waste oil, why bother with all this? In the long run, is it really worth all the effort and expense?

 

[Al]

Maybe 5 to 10 years ago. But now with the great oils-probably not. It's really a hobby for me. Its a money pit

 

[Motorbike]

quote:

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Originally posted by 1977c10phxdriver:


I guess my question is, besides not having quite so much waste oil, why bother with all this? In the long run, is it really worth all the effort and expense?

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Nope , not the bypass filter and such extended drains ect .

It is worth it to change your own oil with mileage and time commenstruate to the oils ability .

That V-8 will last no longer on synthetic than dino . Thats why I run dino in the pushrod engines here and synlubes in the high revvers with small sumps . Also I want to get the oil to the top as quick as possible when the weather is cooler with the little ones .

 

[427Z06]

Do the math for 200K miles:

$30 oil + $5 filter + $13 BP filter = $48
$48 x 8 changes = $384
$200 Bypass Kit + $384 = $584

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$7.50 oil + $5 filter = $12.50
$12.50 x 50 changes = $625

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Price of a Jiffy Lube Change x 50 changes = $$$

 

[Motorbike]

Also that 1977 Chevy has a carb on it , the other truck is fuel injected .If anything the friends truck could have been put on synlube with success but not the hotrod motor .

Dino is less cost to dump fuel soaked oil on occasion and it does happen

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

Well, i've got almost 3K on my new engine now and have gone through 2 1/2 gallons of Amsoil so far. I had 2 leaking filters and tossed the oil. Changed my TP in my Frantz 2 times checking the break-in of the engine, so this is not cost effective!

True on the carbed vs. injected engines. I'm planning on an UOA at about 6K on the synthetic to see how its doing. Once this current jug of Amsoil is gone, i'm going back to the cheap crap! LOL With rebates and sales, I can get most oil here in PHX for 59 cents a quart. Beats the heck out of 5 bucks a quart! And with the BP filter, I should be able to run the cheap stuff to 6-8k anyway.

I've got one more Frantz BP on the shelf and am going to put it on my wifes '86 Caprice. Its low milage and I'd like to keep it going the best I can, love the car, nice and BIG! I don't keep up with her car as well as I do my 2 trucks, so it will do her car better I think. I"m also adding a Magnifine to it and to my '86 3/4 ton truck. The truck only has 29,000 orig miles and i'm planning on being buried in it!

Mark

 

[427Z06]

quote:

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Originally posted by 1977c10phxdriver:
Well, i've got almost 3K on my new engine now and have gone through 2 1/2 gallons of Amsoil so far. I had 2 leaking filters and tossed the oil. Changed my TP in my Frantz 2 times checking the break-in of the engine, so this is not cost effective!

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Your inexpensive dino plan will probably work well for you.

Let your experience above be a lesson for anyone contemplating your original plan. I.e., sort out all the filter and plumbing issues before going to the expensive syn oil.

Best of luck to you.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

You are correct. The more I think about it, the more inclined I am to put the last full 2 1/2 gallon jug on eBay and take my losses and call it good! LOL

 

[Pablo]

1977 - I would absolutely advise to not use synthetic oil until all systems are ready. It's a waste of good expensive synthetic. It's not the "oil's fault"....when sealed, synthetic oil should be fine, but 25K should be worked up to with UOA's.

 

[Ugly3]

20 years ago it was worth it to change to synthetics to insure long engine performance. It is no longer true.

With todays dino oils you can easily run a 4,000 OCI in most engines. Combine that with a decent oil filter and you are looking at very long service lives.

You can get API certified SL/SM oils for $.082 everyday, and for even less if you watch the sales and deals.

My one qualification is that if you live where it gets really cold, maybe -15F, then full synthetics provide a real benefit in cold starts.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by Pablo:
1977 - I would absolutely advise to not use synthetic oil until all systems are ready. It's a waste of good expensive synthetic. It's not the "oil's fault"....when sealed, synthetic oil should be fine, but 25K should be worked up to with UOA's.

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Well, I "thought" I had everything sorted out. Infortunately, the Napa filters decided to leak, costing me 2 quarts of oil. Other than that, its finally dry and doing well. I'll let it run until the current jug is gone, then going back to regular oil.