is 50:1 enough oil?

Messages
5,791
Location
North Texas
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by ARB1977
Amsoil Saber at 80:1 to 100:1 for the win. Using it the last two years in my Sthil attachment engine. I take it a step further by making my own E0 fuel. 93 octane and 32 oz of water. Water and ethanol mix together. Drain the water out till you see the separation. My five gallon can has a drain hose at the bottom.
I run amsoil as well. But not 100:1. I know some do, but I'm not risking a high dollar saw with that mix.
I'm probably at 80-90:1. Even in the Texas it runs great.
 
Messages
944
Location
AR
Originally Posted by ARB1977
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by ARB1977
Amsoil Saber at 80:1 to 100:1 for the win. Using it the last two years in my Sthil attachment engine. I take it a step further by making my own E0 fuel. 93 octane and 32 oz of water. Water and ethanol mix together. Drain the water out till you see the separation. My five gallon can has a drain hose at the bottom.
I run amsoil as well. But not 100:1. I know some do, but I'm not risking a high dollar saw with that mix.
I'm probably at 80-90:1. Even in the Texas it runs great.
good job on tuning the carb properly. However it would run with more power and longer with 32:1 (or anything in between that, and what you run now) - if carb was tuned properly to your mix.
 
Messages
5,791
Location
North Texas
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by ARB1977
Originally Posted by spasm3
Originally Posted by ARB1977
Amsoil Saber at 80:1 to 100:1 for the win. Using it the last two years in my Sthil attachment engine. I take it a step further by making my own E0 fuel. 93 octane and 32 oz of water. Water and ethanol mix together. Drain the water out till you see the separation. My five gallon can has a drain hose at the bottom.
I run amsoil as well. But not 100:1. I know some do, but I'm not risking a high dollar saw with that mix.
I'm probably at 80-90:1. Even in the Texas it runs great.
good job on tuning the carb properly. However it would run with more power and longer with 32:1 (or anything in between that, and what you run now) - if carb was tuned properly to your mix.
I haven't even touched the carb. This last spring I changed the air filter, fuel filter and spark plug. For my needs I don't need the extra power.
 
Messages
78
Location
Illinois
"However it would run with more power and longer with 32:1 (or anything in between that, and what you run now) - if carb was tuned properly to your mix." Please tell me how much longer my Lawn Boy 7024 will run and how much more power it will have running 32:1 ? Since I rebuilt the engine to like new condition 5 years ago I have run a strict 50:1 mix. Right now today my hour meter says 233.8 hrs.run time. I haven't removed the spark plug yet but I check and clean the ports at 100hr. intervals (very minor cleaning).
 
Messages
2,273
Location
Cincinnati, USA
Originally Posted by Linctex
Originally Posted by Dave9
That's very strange because they all wear out eventually, wear caused by lubrication issues. The bearings wear out, introduce wobble, and the flywheel starts rubbing the ignition coil. If you catch it early, coil just fails from overheating. Put new coil on, can't get gap right because of the wobble either making contact one half of a revolution and/or gap too large on the other side, then you notice the wobble.
????? Are we talking Old LawnBoy mowers with bushing on the crank??? All modern 2-strokes have very good ball (usually, a few use needle) bearings on the crank. The piston will seize before these bearings die.
Not true at all. You seem to be talking theory. I have seen it happen many times. However, I will grant some slack because you seem to be talking about mythical HQ engines with ball or needle bearings. This has absolutely nothing to do with "modern" so I feel like you are just making up nonsense. If anything, the opposite has happened that modern are less likely to have that. No, piston seize with the right oil ratio is rare, as long as you accept that the right oil ratio is not 50:1 or higher as some idiots here have suggested. If you want to argue to use too lean an oil ratio and then argue that you get piston problems... hello idiot? That's just not at all the common problem unless it wasn't maintained and ran too lean hot.
 
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Messages
5,570
Location
New Zealand
Originally Posted by userfriendly
I like those little 100ml bottles from Husky and Stihl that result in around 38:1 with a gallon of premium boat gas.
Those are made to pour into a 5 litre container and you get 50:1. Gosh, isn't metric easy ?
 
Messages
672
Location
florida
I recently bought some off label unkown brand 2 cycle oil and its really good oil. as an experiment I mixed a batch at 32/1 vs the usual 50/1. the diff is quite striking and how everything runs. smoother and more power and better throttle response. this is dino oil
 
Messages
2,945
Location
Georgia/Retired
I'm stepping back into this thread to update a post I made a few months back. I was going to go to Summit and buy a quart of Klotz R-50 but after a nice conversation with the folks at Klotz they talked me into buying a bottle of their Motorcycle Techniplate TC-W3, KL-302. They told me that this was nearly the same as their 50:1 that is marketed to the OPE consumer. So tomorrow I plan on running a few tanks through my little Husqvarna 125B leaf blower to see how it affects the piston top, exhaust port, plug, etc. As expected, the mix ratio will be 40:1.
 
Messages
484
Location
SW Missouri
I am also saying that the air filter is more like the cause for the wear. To be honest most of the air filters I’ve seen on two stroke ope absolutely suck. They don’t filter anything besides maybe a small cat. Just my opinion
 
Messages
1,551
My poulan blower recommends 50:1.. I been running as of late a 40:1. I read somewhere in a past post that if a machine was designed to run a mix ratio that the carb would need to be adjusted if another mix was ran. I have no such issues and haven’t touched my carb.. I know my blower gets up to rpm faster, smoother doesn’t bog down as it was and definitely revs a bit higher. I think EPA has something to do with the 50:1 mix that’s just my 2 cents worth. Lower pollution yet fill the landfill with roached out 2 strokes. :unsure:
 
Messages
759
Location
UK
Iv read on here that people run 100:1 mix in 4 stroke engines. Why would someone run 2 stroke mix in a 4 stroke engine?
 
Messages
416
Location
CA
Iv read on here that people run 100:1 mix in 4 stroke engines. Why would someone run 2 stroke mix in a 4 stroke engine?

It's because it acts as a fuel stabilizer and coats the valves, combustion chamber, cylinder wall, piston, etc.
 

gathermewool

Site Donor
Messages
8,935
Location
New England
Iv read on here that people run 100:1 mix in 4 stroke engines. Why would someone run 2 stroke mix in a 4 stroke engine?

It seems as if there are two types on here who do this:

1. those who think it benefits the engine

2. those who just need to get rid of an old mix.

I don’t understand it myself. Don’t most OPE 4-strokes outlast the machine itself or die an early death when one hits a large root or rock, bending the crank?
 
I've tried running 30:1 premix (fuel for the dirt bike) in a 2T string-trimmer that's supposed to use 50:1 just to avoid having to have two batches of fuel.
It doesn't idle as cleanly and doesn't accelerate as well with the 30:1 as it does with 50:1 and when going to full throttle with the 30:1 it would sometimes need a couple of seconds to clear itself before it would run cleanly.
 
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