Doing a white SUV and even after 3 applications, there is still iron in the paint. Will agitating it help it work better or reduce the number of applications needed?
I used Adams Iron Decon when washing a white vehicle as well but there was barely any iron on the vehicle as indicated by purple staining, unless I did it wrong. I sprayed the decon directly onto the paint. Regardless I think you can use a wash mitt to agitate it no problem.Doing a white SUV and even after 3 applications, there is still iron in the paint. Will agitating it help it work better or reduce the number of applications needed?
Might want to take a power washer across it a few times.Well this has been pretty much neglected. Running boards have a visible coating of iron dust.
What product are you using?
Did that before for lose dirt. It won't remove this.Might want to take a power washer across it a few times.
The particles might be embedded in the clear coat, maybe using a clay bar could help lift them up.
Did that before for lose dirt. It won't remove this.
Which clay? That last time I clayed with ID the bar dissolved before I finished the whole car.D180 is pretty good stuff.
I'll usually spray it on, let it sit, agitate it with a wash mitt, and then rinse it before it dries. If the car is really bad you can use a synthetic clay with the decon liquid.
I usually use a Nanoskin towelWhich clay? That last time I clayed with ID the bar dissolved before I finished the whole car.
Give it a couple of shots of ONR or detail spray to help it move around.Just tried the Nanoskin towel. On an area that has little contamination it slides around fine, but on most neglected areas its hard to move around. Your hand slides off the towel while it sticks on the surface. I can pull it along with the other hand while one hand holds it down, but that's slow work. Would those mitts work better here?
I personally notice less marring with the Nanoskin, even when I use a DA pad.What's your take on a comment I read from a detailer saying a clay bar embeds the contaminants into the bar itself preventing them from scratching the paint, while these towels keep the contaminants on the surface where they will scratch the paint as you use the towel?
For heavy contamination, an aggressive clay bar is the most efficient option. I prefer Meguiar's red.Ordered two Nanoskin mits. Using the towel is an exercise in frustration, at least on heavily contaminated surfaces. It feels like dragging sand paper across the paint.
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Clay bars and the lube used to keep them gliding on the paint surface are one of the biggest and best prep steps in preparing paint to be corrected and preparation for polishing and sealing the paint.What's your take on a comment I read from a detailer saying a clay bar embeds the contaminants into the bar itself preventing them from scratching the paint, while these towels keep the contaminants on the surface where they will scratch the paint as you use the towel?