Iron decon application

Doing a white SUV and even after 3 applications, there is still iron in the paint. Will agitating it help it work better or reduce the number of applications needed?
I used Adams Iron Decon when washing a white vehicle as well but there was barely any iron on the vehicle as indicated by purple staining, unless I did it wrong. I sprayed the decon directly onto the paint. Regardless I think you can use a wash mitt to agitate it no problem.
 
What product are you using?
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Might want to take a power washer across it a few times.
Did that before for lose dirt. It won't remove this.
 
D180 is pretty good stuff.

I'll usually spray it on, let it sit, agitate it with a wash mitt, and then rinse it before it dries. If the car is really bad you can use a synthetic clay with the decon liquid.
 
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D180 is pretty good stuff.

I'll usually spray it on, let it sit, agitate it with a wash mitt, and then rinse it before it dries. If the car is really bad you can use a synthetic clay with the decon liquid.
Which clay? That last time I clayed with ID the bar dissolved before I finished the whole car.
 
Just tried the Nanoskin towel. On an area that has little contamination it slides around fine, but on most neglected areas its hard to move around. Your hand slides off the towel while it sticks on the surface. I can pull it along with the other hand while one hand holds it down, but that's slow work. Would those mitts work better here?
 
Just tried the Nanoskin towel. On an area that has little contamination it slides around fine, but on most neglected areas its hard to move around. Your hand slides off the towel while it sticks on the surface. I can pull it along with the other hand while one hand holds it down, but that's slow work. Would those mitts work better here?
Give it a couple of shots of ONR or detail spray to help it move around.
 
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What's your take on a comment I read from a detailer saying a clay bar embeds the contaminants into the bar itself preventing them from scratching the paint, while these towels keep the contaminants on the surface where they will scratch the paint as you use the towel?
 
What's your take on a comment I read from a detailer saying a clay bar embeds the contaminants into the bar itself preventing them from scratching the paint, while these towels keep the contaminants on the surface where they will scratch the paint as you use the towel?
I personally notice less marring with the Nanoskin, even when I use a DA pad.
 
Ordered two Nanoskin mits. Using the towel is an exercise in frustration, at least on heavily contaminated surfaces. It feels like dragging sand paper across the paint.

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For heavy contamination, an aggressive clay bar is the most efficient option. I prefer Meguiar's red.

The Nanoskin mitts are excellent for express details where full contamination removal is not a priority.
 
I used the Megs Ultimate all wheel cleaner on a white '12 Camry and it left a lot of the brown dots behind even after several applications. Turned purple like it should. Had much better results with Gtechniq Iron Remover plus the price was reasonable.
 
What's your take on a comment I read from a detailer saying a clay bar embeds the contaminants into the bar itself preventing them from scratching the paint, while these towels keep the contaminants on the surface where they will scratch the paint as you use the towel?
Clay bars and the lube used to keep them gliding on the paint surface are one of the biggest and best prep steps in preparing paint to be corrected and preparation for polishing and sealing the paint.

Make sure to rotate and kneed the clay after every other section or more if you are getting heavy contamination off a panel. An example would be the passenger side rocker panel --this should have more contaminants to remove per square foot. Clay will make a wheel look new again as well if used with care and detail. You can make your own lube with water and dish soap or use the rinse aid fluid for auto dishwashers--that is is the best.
 
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