Interesting Testamonial -C5 Z06 Mobil 1

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This guy used Moroso Race Oil filters. Never heard of them but they improve flow according to him. Check out what he does for storage.
quote:
Bought the car in 2/01. weather was mild so I was able to drive it in March and 1st part of April. It came of course with Mobil 1 5W30. April 2001/1,000 mi. first oil change to Mobil 1 10W30 Street driving in April. May 2001 - topped off oil with rest of oil to 7qts for 2 local AutoX's in May then Regional event at end of May on Saturday, hot day ran hard, noticed oil pressure dropping after runs with hot engine/hot H20/Hot oil. Oil level OK, no consumption problem, probably reduced viscosity. Added 1qt of Mobil 10W30 for 1qt overfill (8qt) to keep pressure up. Sunday Regional event, ran hard and hot, no problems, pressure OK. Monday Ran Solo I at Nelson Ledges Ran hard and hot all day No Problems. mileage just over 4,000 June 2001, Oil change #2, 7 qts Mobil 1 15W50 expecting hot summer competition and driving. Ran hard in June, July, August. 10 local Auto X, 2 Pro Solo events, 1 Regional championship, 2 Solo I events at Glen. 2 long trips for buisness (800 mi) on hot summer days. September 2001 mileage at just over 7,000 mi, no consumption problems whatsoever. Will not change oil until after National Championships. September 9, will not go to National championships, September 12, mileage 7,400, Oil change #3 to Mobil 1 10W30 for Fall driving and drop in outside temps. September, October, 1st half November, city driving, daily comute, stop and go driving. November 15, 2001, 10,500 miles, engine broken in, no consunption problems, will add 1/2 qt PTFE to coat engine for Winter storage. Run PTFE for 500 miles December 1, 2001. Change oil #4 for Winter storage to Mobil1 0W30 and to remove excess PTFE. 11,000 miles. Up on blocks for Winter storage. Pre heat car, then run car once a week for 5 minutes at idle then F1 warm up procedure, H20 temp over 170 then 5 minutes at 4,000 RPM with fan and open hood, fans off then F1 shut down procedure to burn off excess fuel in cylinders. February 1 2002, will change to Mobil1 15W50 for Evo School, ProSolo opener and National Tour Opener in mid February in Florida. Not anal at all. I like the looks of my Corvette; I wash it a lot, I keep it in a garage, I use a car cover. I look at an oil change as washing the inside. I like the looks of a clean engine on the outside as well as the inside. If I didn't use the car for competition I probably would not change the oil quite as much. I bleed my brakes before and after each event. Anal? I don't think so. It keeps me off the ARMCO!! I decided to tear down and rebuild my '90 Callaway. 11 years old, 110,000 miles, cylinder leak downs were as tight as the day I bought it, valve train and bearings showed minimal wear. I will use the same program on the Z06. BTW my '88 Astro has 210,000 miles on it. NOTE: I am running a Moroso Race Oil Filter which allows a higher oil flow rate but requires more frequent changing every 3,000 miles. If not I would probably stretch the Mobil1 to 4,000 - 5,000 mile intervals. This filter does not offer the resistance that a Mobil Synthetic or UPF44 Gold Filter would. I do not use any commercial PTFE crap like Slick50, Pro Long or Dura Lube. My cousin who is a Polymer Chemist (ex Pennzoil and Quaker State) makes the special PTFE treatment for me. He also supplies this to our second cousin in England who uses it in his F1 program. The F1 warm up for storage or dissuse is: NOTE: Check all fluid levels BEFORE start up 1. idle for 1-5 minutes until H20 AND oil temps come up to 100 degrees 2. then "blipping" the RPM from idle to 3,000 RPM until the H20 is over 170 degrees. 3. Then a constant 3,000 to 4,000 RPM run to get oil temps up to and over 200 degrees for 5 minutes. It is critical that the oil reaches this temp and stays there for 5 minutes or more whether or not the oil is conventional or synthetic. 4. Fans should be used if the H20 temps climb during this part of the procedure. 5. Follow shut down Procedure. F1 Shut down procedure (prevents shock cooling) If oil pressure is nominal: 1. Idle for 1 minute or until H20 temps begin to fall 2. Fans OFF 3. Quickly rev engine from idle to max RPM in 1000 RPM intervals. ie. Idle-1,000-I-2,000-I-3,000-I-4,000-I-5,000-I-6,000 4. Last 2 "throttle blips" should take RPM to max RPM and ignition OFF at last PEAK RPM. 5. Let engine cool naturally. DO NOT externally cool engine. Make sure Fans and Facility AC OFF.
[ March 18, 2004, 08:46 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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What's up with the use of PTFE?!?!? [I dont know] [Dummy!] [Bang Head] [Freak] [Thumbs Down!] I know he said no commerical kind but I thought ANY type is BAD.
 
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Yea, and the whole "F1" procedures are a bit whack if you ask me. Why not just drive the darn thing in betweedn snow storms? Oh, but the salt on the roads [Roll Eyes] Cars are made to be driven. I love people who actually drive their expensive/exotic cars and never trailor or "winter" them. A guy that lives around the corner from me has a silver 02 Zo6, and it's his daily driver, even in snow [Eek!] He has some crap older Vette wheels in the back with some kind of crazy performance snow tires. Makes it up the hill in our neighborhood better than my freakin Corolla with all season tires [Mad]
 
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snow tires are worth there weight in gold. i was a major skeptic until i bolted on my new Blizzaks in november. i bet the this Vette owner has the Goodyear Eagle M+S RunFlat tires....very pricey units. I have no driving experiance with them *lol* expect them to be on par with Michelin Pilot Alpin at very least. i wish more people in the north american market were educated on how effective snow tires are over all season tires.
 

Patman

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When I get a C5 in a few years, I will drive it daily, even in the snow. I've already got the snow tires I want picked out! [Smile] This guy in the article has some strange rituals. Idling the engine in storage? Not good. [No no]
 
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This article is typical of what you see on the internet. Some guy thinks he has the ultimate solution to engine longevity based on the way he revs his car before he stores it in the winter. This is probably a testimony to how stout the GM Corvette engine is rather than how great his cool-down practices are. And F1 style procedures??? Puleeeezzz! I have always enjoyed taching my engine to 18,000 RPM just before I shut it down. This ensure that the raw unburned fuel washes all of that dirty oil off of the cylinders in preparation for extended inactivity during the inclement months. This makes me LMFAO. [ March 19, 2004, 07:51 AM: Message edited by: FowVay ]
 
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[Eek!] Yikes! All that throttle blipping and constant F*#&ing with the acclerator sounds like a sure way to get a bunch of fuel in the oil. Plus, what is with switching grades every oil change? This guy is making things harder than they need to be.
 
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quote:
Added 1qt of Mobil 10W30 for 1qt overfill (8qt) to keep pressure up.
[Eek!] Does anybody else find something silly in that statement? Dave
 

Patman

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quote:
Originally posted by DavoNF:
quote:
Added 1qt of Mobil 10W30 for 1qt overfill (8qt) to keep pressure up.
[Eek!] Does anybody else find something silly in that statement? Dave

I found that odd too, since most of the LS1 guys I know who run Mobil 1 and want a bit more oil pressure end up tossing in a quart or two of 15w50 instead. A popular LS1 recipe is to run 4qts of 10w30 with 2qts of 15w50, this lessens the oil consumption a lot. I'd love to see more UOAs with that combo though.
 
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How in the he!! is more oil in the sump going to keep pressure higher, unless he is uncovering the pick-up tube in hard corners and starving the pump (which I highly doubt, given the LS6 pan design)?
 

Patman

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More oil won't keep the pressure higher, but it is recommended by GM that if you road race or autocross your LS1/LS6, that you can overfill your oil about 1 to 1.5qts above the capacity listed in the manual, and it's totally safe. It's not for oil pressure though, but to prevent oil starvation on high g cornering.
 
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this guy is a moron. Shutting an engine down at high rpms is plain stupid , no two ways around it. F1 cars do a fast shut down as they have no cooling apparatus, that is the only reason, otherwise they would idle for several minutes before shut down. the internet can be a dangerous tool when it lands in the wrong hands. sheesh!
 

buster

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There is a ton of garbage on the net, thats for sure. [ March 19, 2004, 11:45 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
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Kind of contradictive.....correct procedure for shutting down the engine so that no fuel is in the pistons, and then saying to shut the engine off at the last two throttle "blips" and to shut down at the last maximum rpm blip. Makes no sense whatsoever. Moronic at best.
 
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Obviously this guy has too much time on his hands, and quite a bit of money to blow as well.
quote:
I decided to tear down and rebuild my '90 Callaway. 11 years old, 110,000 miles, cylinder leak downs were as tight as the day I bought it, valve train and bearings showed minimal wear. I will use the same program on the Z06.
If he plans on doing a rebuild on this engine at 110K 'whether it needs it or not', what's the point of doing all this random stuff (even if they DID help, which I doubt)? He's going to crack open this new cars's engine for the heck of it even though the Callaway had "minimal wear". I'm reaching for the 'Kook alert' button on this Jack***.
 
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