quote:Now this isn't my opinion, just the opinion of someone else. We were having a debate about the pros and cons of switching to synthetic after using dino for high mileage engines. I have switched over several vehicles with high miles and never had a problem, as they were well maintained to begin with. Does this post make any sense, apart from the usual cautions when switching in a motor with an unknown history?
Actually, I have to back him up on this......I agree it isn't wise to switch to synth from dino in high mileage engines. Leaks may have been the problem in his case, but the change in the car from dino to synth after all those miles puts shock into the vette and effects alot of areas that were once fine. Those areas that were heavily worn like places of deposit and build-up in the pan become holes now and thus leaks begin. Sure you could change to synth after all those miles and your car would eventually perform better under certain conditions(Depending on what you have and/or have not used with dino), but the shock could damage an engine like that in other ways. Fact is...Mobil 1 is definitely superior for our vettes than dino. But it should only be used in new engines or right from the get-go unless you feel like gambling with your engine. (They don't exactly grow on trees btw). I plan on replacing and/or upgrading my engine pretty soon here(It just reached 130k, but still runs very strong) and since I got it, I've been running it on dino because I had word that the previous owner was using it. Otherwise I'd have gone synth. However, I have been using other micro-lubricants habitually with the dino which is probably why it performs like or better than most vettes I've seen with Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is better than dino like I said , but it doesn't necessarily mean the vette isn't going to run as well unless all the other individual is using is dino with no other help. There are other ways...safer ways for people who still use dino to reach engine performance and/or exceed that gained with mobil 1 without risking your engine by a high mileage switch to synth. It just isn't worth it. I can tell you though, once I break in the new engine...it's gonna be a mobil 1 buffet, though I'm still gonna use my other micro-lubricant. BTW, my oil changes are frequently and habitually done at every 3k.
Interesting point of view
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Lessee... I switched a Northstar at 120k... a Porsche 928 at 105k/17yrs... a Jag V12 at 17 yrs... hm yep I'd say he's fullas hit. ![[Big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
Cheers, 3MP
Cheers, 3MPI just changed my Honda Civic Si over at 60,000 miles (not exactly high mileage, I know) and the oil cnosumption went from 1/2 quart in 7,500 miles to 1/2 quart in 4,000 miles, at least initially. Now this isn't a real high rate of consumption, but the consumption rate did double.
Prior to this, I would have said this guy is full of $hit, but based on this experience, perhaps he is right.
On the other hand, I did switch my 1997 Lumina at 70,000 miles from Pennzoil 5W30 to Rotella T 5W40 full synthetic and had a very positive experience...quieter and much less oil consumption with no leaks.
quote:
Originally posted by vetteboi:quote:Now this isn't my opinion, just the opinion of someone else. We were having a debate about the pros and cons of switching to synthetic after using dino for high mileage engines. I have switched over several vehicles with high miles and never had a problem, as they were well maintained to begin with. Does this post make any sense, apart from the usual cautions when switching in a motor with an unknown history?
Actually, I have to back him up on this......I agree it isn't wise to switch to synth from dino in high mileage engines. Leaks may have been the problem in his case, but the change in the car from dino to synth after all those miles puts shock into the vette and effects alot of areas that were once fine. Those areas that were heavily worn like places of deposit and build-up in the pan become holes now and thus leaks begin. Sure you could change to synth after all those miles and your car would eventually perform better under certain conditions(Depending on what you have and/or have not used with dino), but the shock could damage an engine like that in other ways. Fact is...Mobil 1 is definitely superior for our vettes than dino. But it should only be used in new engines or right from the get-go unless you feel like gambling with your engine. (They don't exactly grow on trees btw). I plan on replacing and/or upgrading my engine pretty soon here(It just reached 130k, but still runs very strong) and since I got it, I've been running it on dino because I had word that the previous owner was using it. Otherwise I'd have gone synth. However, I have been using other micro-lubricants habitually with the dino which is probably why it performs like or better than most vettes I've seen with Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is better than dino like I said , but it doesn't necessarily mean the vette isn't going to run as well unless all the other individual is using is dino with no other help. There are other ways...safer ways for people who still use dino to reach engine performance and/or exceed that gained with mobil 1 without risking your engine by a high mileage switch to synth. It just isn't worth it. I can tell you though, once I break in the new engine...it's gonna be a mobil 1 buffet, though I'm still gonna use my other micro-lubricant. BTW, my oil changes are frequently and habitually done at every 3k.
quote:
but the change in the car from dino to synth after all those miles puts shock into the vette and effects alot of areas that were once fine. Those areas that were heavily worn like places of deposit and build-up in the pan become holes now and thus leaks begin. Sure you could change to synth after all those miles and your car would eventually perform better under certain conditions(Depending on what you have and/or have not used with dino), but the shock could damage an engine like that in other ways.
quote:I should have been more clear in the original post I made. I'm talking about the "shock" value he speaks of when switching from dino to synthetic on a high mileage engine.
However, I have been using other micro-lubricants habitually with the dino which is probably why it performs like or better than most vettes I've seen with Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is better than dino like I said , but it doesn't necessarily mean the vette isn't going to run as well unless all the other individual is using is dino with no other help. There are other ways...safer ways for people who still use dino to reach engine performance and/or exceed that gained with mobil 1 without risking your engine by a high mileage switch to synth. It just isn't worth it.
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I really can't say I disagree with him. In SJ oils there isn't a whole lot of performance difference btween Mobil 1 and dinos. Chief advantages are extended drain intervals, a measure of safety in overheat conditions, and superior cold weather performance. Those reasons may be more than enough for folks to switche. I converted many vehicles over to synthetic with no problems. Two had excess of 80K miles.
I am far less of a dino oil basher than I once was.
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quote:Increased oil consumption for a short time is not unusual. If you had a good reason to change to Mobil 1, the reason is still good. Stick with it. Here's what Schaeffer says, "The previously used engine oil may have built up deposits in different areas in the engine. These deposits, which in some cases act as a seal, can be removed when premium performance engine oils that contain different additive systems, with additional detergents/dispersants, anti-wear and anti-oxidants, is introduced into the engine. This removal process can be more enhanced if different brands of engine oil are mixed together. Mixing of different brands of engine oils can result in the worst of both worlds, instead of the best. The complex chemical reactions that occur in the removal of existing deposits and in interactions between different types of additive chemistries can and will lead to an increase in oil consumption. After these deposits are removed and a balanced equilibrium is where the new engine oil has formed a full seal, oil consumption rates will return at or to very near their original levels. "The amount of time required for the engine to regain its previously observed oil consumption rates with the use of the new engine oil can vary from one to three normal drain intervals. This phenomenon is not unique to any one brand of engine and/or engine oil, but is commonly reported, when switching to a premium engine oil, especially in older engines that may have high mileage or may not have a rigorous maintenance program." How do you avoid the increased oil consumption? "One way to mitigate oil consumption when switching brands of engine oil is to flush the existing engine oil before adding any new oil. When switching to Schaeffer Mfg.’s engine oils, especially in older engines it is recommended that the engine be flushed and purged with the use of either Schaeffer’s #292 Purging Fluid or #131 Neutra Fuel Stabilizer to gently remove and purge any existing deposits." Ken [ August 22, 2003, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
Originally posted by CJH: I just changed my Honda Civic Si over at 60,000 miles (not exactly high mileage, I know) and the oil cnosumption went from 1/2 quart in 7,500 miles to 1/2 quart in 4,000 miles, at least initially. Now this isn't a real high rate of consumption, but the consumption rate did double. ...
Ken2 You beat me to the post. I was going to post that often times this can be prevented by purgeing /flushing the system. THeir are four prefeered flush's that are used at theis site freq. They are as follows: Auto-Rx, Nuetra 131,Lube Control, and Amsoil Flush. Their are a number of other ones but these are by far the most popular.
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