Interesting Oil Perspective (Conventional or Synthetic?)

Hmm. Calling @HondaR2016:

Torco Oils said:
When looking beyond peak dyno results at longevity of an engine (whether it be for racing or daily driving) Soliz tends to live by the idea that a little thicker oil never hurt nobody. “If the customer is hell bent on following the rules and is worried about problems down the road, stick with the vehicle owner’s manual that (usually) states 5W-20. I would personally use a 5W-30 or 10W-30 for the life of the engine. The SAE 20, in my opinion, was introduced into this application with environment and fuel mileage credits in mind. It surely was not based on the best protection for your new expensive engine’s upper cylinder and valvetrain.” Personal advice from an oil professional.
 
Engine Labs have some really good info. Keep in mind that every engine has its own requirements.
 
Did the article say something about mineral oil (non synthetic) having better seal on the piston rings thus helping with DI blow by effects, such as fuel dilution of oil? If true, this would be very interesting.
 
Did the article say something about mineral oil (non synthetic) having better seal on the piston rings thus helping with DI blow by effects, such as fuel dilution of oil? If true, this would be very interesting.
Yes. At least that’s how I read it.
 
Did the article say something about mineral oil (non synthetic) having better seal on the piston rings thus helping with DI blow by effects, such as fuel dilution of oil? If true, this would be very interesting.
I read that too, but considering that synthetics (especially PAO/POE) are much better suited to the high temps around the ring pack, I don’t know how much faith I put in that statement. I’d have to see some data on it, because on its face it seems highly questionable.
 
Again I’ll quailify that my comprehension skills are hampered by age and lifelong ADD….it seems to me that this article/author implies that conventional oils maintain better ring seal with engines that have fuel dilution issues.
 
Again I’ll quailify that my comprehension skills are hampered by age and lifelong ADD….it seems to me that this article/author implies that conventional oils maintain better ring seal with engines that have fuel dilution issues.
Yes, it could be verified if someone runs mineral 5w30 in Honda 2.0t engine that normally gets 5% fuel in oil, and do UOA
 
That would certainly tell the story. 4 stroke outboard motors are prone to fuel dilution issues. The last two outboards I’ve owned (Suzuki & Yamaha) both were recommended to use conventional 10W40 & 10W30 respectively. I assume that’s why??
 
That would certainly tell the story. 4 stroke outboard motors are prone to fuel dilution issues. The last two outboards I’ve owned (Suzuki & Yamaha) both were recommended to use conventional 10W40 & 10W30 respectively. I assume that’s why??




Do you know what the reasoning was behind using conventional instead of syn.
 
Reads more like an advertisement. :unsure:
Pretty sure they’re not getting Lake Speed Jr in their articles for pure factual information; there have been a couple things they’ve printed in articles featuring his comments that appear to conflict with information that industry insiders have shared on here.

Methinks Driven is using EngineLabs like an infomercial at 3am on a Saturday morning.
 
Yes, it could be verified if someone runs mineral 5w30 in Honda 2.0t engine that normally gets 5% fuel in oil, and do UOA
It could be verified just running a compression and leak-down test, which has me thinking it's a work of fiction.
 
I read that too, but considering that synthetics (especially PAO/POE) are much better suited to the high temps around the ring pack, I don’t know how much faith I put in that statement. I’d have to see some data on it, because on its face it seems highly questionable.
Some say PAOs leave harder deposits. Who really knows.
 
Do you know what the reasoning was behind using conventional instead of syn.
Outboard motors can have more opportunities for fuel dilution because they run cooler and can see long periods of constant low RPM use when trolling.
That usually isn’t a problem IF the motor was broken in properly (seating the rings) from the beginning when new.
I’m reading/learning that some models (Yamaha 300HP)
can tend to have this issue regardless of the break in procedure. “Making oil” is how this condition is referred to due to the fuel in the crankcase causes an overfilled scenario on the dipstick.
 
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