Interesting observation regarding M1 T&SUV

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23,591
I've had this oil for 2000 miles in my '96 2.8 V6 12v Audi engine. Engine runs and sounds great with it. The first 1k miles I didn't notice any oil consumption. All of a sudden I was half a quart low (I check the oil ca every 500 miles). I'm not having any oil leak at this time (The dang valley pan gasket is "sweating," but it's not dripping), so the sudden oil consumption took me a tad by surprise. I think there are three expanations: 1. I've been spending a tad more time a redline than usually, and of course the engine burns then more oil. [Wink] 2. The valve stem seals aren't the freshest in this 8 year old car, and maybe they are about to give up the ghost (no smoke yet). 3. The oil is doing something weird. [Razz] It also could be a combination of issues.
 
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Mori, either the Delvac 1 is doing some cleaning and that accounts for the consumption, or it's time to go back to Syntec [Big Grin] On a serious note, I experienced the same thing...and you know what I'm using now. [Cheers!]
 

moribundman

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I guess, I'll see if oil consumption stabilizes, increases, worsens, or ideally declines. Not sure how much crud could have accumulated on the valve stem steals. I know the material Audi uses, hardens and shrinks over time. I don't think it's Viton. I've had someone follow me, and there's no visible smoke when I get on or get suddenly off the gas. Right now, I'm still inclined to attribute the elevated oil consumption to my driving style with old age and some wear contributing. I know from experience that leadfoot can increase oil consumption dramatically. An Audi with piston slap? [Eek!]
quote:
I saw the Mobil 1 T&SUV oil at WalMart the other day... What IS the difference between that oil and normal Mobil 1?
It's Mobil's only 5W-40 oil other than Delvac 1 in NA. 5W-40 is the viscosity I prefer in this motor. Since this oil either is Delvac 1 or at least very close to D1, it should be a very good oil. Dr. T, he option you allude to, does indeed exist and isn't out of the question. [LOL!]
 

moribundman

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From what I read on this forum, at least newer Honda engines like thin oil. I didn't have a consumption issue (Had to add only between 0.5 and 0.75 quarts to keep her topped off over 10k miles), but the Audi engine sounded bad with M1 0W-40. I don't know if the noise was just a "cosmetic" issue. [ May 17, 2004, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: moribundman ]
 
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The H22A4 engine's been around awhile. The 0w40 is listed as acceptable in Europe for them... so I gotta figure it shouldn't be a problem. The Prelude is one of the few cars the don't indicate you can (should?) use the 5w20 stuff in. Interesting to note: many of the cars that were produced with engines that used 5w30 as the factory fill have the EXACT same engine in them for the year Honda started using 5w20... So I'm thinking that 5w20 thing is more a milage work around...
 
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Well, I just put in the Belgian syntec 5-40 this weekend and if it has consumption issues as well, it's back to the Syntec 5-50 for good!
 

Patman

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quote:
Originally posted by Dr. T: Well, I just put in the Belgian syntec 5-40 this weekend and if it has consumption issues as well, it's back to the Syntec 5-50 for good!
I sure wish you'd been doing UOAs with all these ten different oils you've tried out, because honestly you don't know which one is working out best for that engine without one.
 

moribundman

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If the engine sounds good, if the engine is clean (internally, I mean!), and if it doesn't consume much oil, what do I need an UOA for? Think about it. Let's say you buy a new car, you break in the engine, you use a particular oil for three oil change intervals, have a UOA done, then you switch to a different oil at every third oil change. By the time you've collected 10 UOAs and can compare and select "the best" oil, your engine isn't exactly a spring chicken anymore. [Wink] I'll have a UOA done on the 5W-40 after 5k miles, but unfortunately I won't have anything to compare it to.
 
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PA
quote:
just put in the Belgian syntec 5-40
I've had good results especially with consumption, but I gave away my last case to a buddy who bought a R32. He is planning to change at 5000mi and do a short run of another 5000mi, so the Syntec 5w-40 will be fine. GC probally is next for the longer 10,000mi interval.
 

MolaKule

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It cleaned the crud from the valve stem seals, which had increased clearances due to wear. [Off Topic!] BTW, saw a brand new Suburban this morning with white smoke pouring from it's exhaust pipe. Driver seemed undauted about long plume of white steamy stuff streaming from behind him.
 
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Western Washington
In my '95 Accord, the oil level fluctuates about 1/3 quart sometimes when I check it. I'll fill with 4.5 quarts, it shows full. Two days later, it shows 1/3-1/2 quart low. Two days later, it shows full again. It's done this with 3 different oils (Pennzoil 15W-40 Longlife, M1 0W-40, M1 5W-40. I figure it's got to do with the position the engine stops in preventing some oil from draining into the pan. Just a theory, but maybe something like this is happening with you car... [I dont know]
 

moribundman

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Palut, the oil level can be read off with very good consistency on my car. It really doesn't fluctuate that much if I check in the same spot in the morning. With the current gas prices I'll probably keep my foot of the gas a bit more, so I'll find out if that makes a difference.
 
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Exactly. The different oil trials have resulted in differences in performance, sound, butt-meter hp, fuel economy, visible cleanliness, and consumption irrespective of what a UOA may show. Once I do settle between the Syntec 5-40 and the 5-50 as well as a suitable OCI, I will do a UOA for kicks.
 
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SC
quote:
Originally posted by Dr. T: Exactly. The different oil trials have resulted in differences in performance, sound, butt-meter hp, fuel economy, visible cleanliness, and consumption irrespective of what a UOA may show.
[Roll Eyes]
 
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