I'm trying Squirt chain lube - I like it so far

Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
3,300
Location
The Willow Creek District AVA
Hello:

I've been using T9 Boeshield for 15 or 20 years. I think it works well but it cakes, probably from me over oiling.

I'm a follower of Lennard Zinn and he mentioned he uses Squirt. I was putting on a new chain and thought I'd try something new. Being a hardcore, powerful rider I replace chains every 1,000 to 1,500 miles. Doing this saves me from burning up $450 Campy Record cassettes!

Follow the instructions. Chain has to be 100% stripped clean. Even the factory lube must be cleaned off. I soak and agitate the chain for a few day in a glass jar filled with mineral spirits, then I blow it dry with compressed air.

Anyway, I like the way the drivetrain feels and shifts. I've got about 150 miles on the new chain so far and lube and it's still smooth and quiet as day 1.

FWIW,

Scott
 
I have a small bottle from one of the Grasshopper races from two years ago. I’ll have to use it on one of my bikes as a test.

I’m currently using DuMonde and it seems to work well.
 
I have a small bottle from one of the Grasshopper races from two years ago. I’ll have to use it on one of my bikes as a test.

I’m currently using DuMonde and it seems to work well.
Squirt is water based. If it freezes it's ruined, apparently. I looked up the MSDS and it's an "oxidized polyethylene wax". It's often used as a floor polish. No joke. But it kind of makes sense that something like this would have lubricative properties. Also too, it's made in South Africa.

Scott
 
I've sprayed a rag-bag sock with WD-40 Bike Chain Lube for the last 7,000 miles. Seems to work fine.
 
That is what I have used for years for my mountain bike. It makes it so easy to clean and is smooth.
 
How do you get T9 to cake? Its so heavily cut with solvent that any excess just drips off well before it dries for me.
 
Wax based
$6.99 in the door. Works great. Excess wipes up easy. Dries in 15 min. Heck DuPont probably makes the base for Maxima.
 
If I use motor oil or gear oil as a chain lube, am I making a mistake?
 
I don't think any of the additives are going to activate on your bicycle, so all they serve is to reduce the amount of actual oil on the chain. Also, they might not be tacky enough.
 
If I use motor oil or gear oil as a chain lube, am I making a mistake?
not a "mistake", it will just run really dirty. The common home brew trick is one part motor oil, 3 parts mineral spirits. The solvents have some cleaning properties and also help distribute the lube where it needs to go (between the rollers). The stuff on the plates really isn't doing anything except attracting dirt.
 
If I use motor oil or gear oil as a chain lube, am I making a mistake?

If you REALLY must use an automotive lube I'd stick with ATF. Has worked well for me in the past. If its just about the cost, check out liquid wrench's chain lube. About $2 at Menards and works very similar to Boeshield T9.


L711.jpg
 
If I use motor oil or gear oil as a chain lube, am I making a mistake?
I think that's the right idea that you don't need a bicycle-specific chain lube product. I've used motor oil and gear oil, and they both work well enough. However, I found one that works better: chainsaw bar & chain oil. It is excellent for chain longevity, thick with enough film strength to minimize metal-metal contact, with tackifier additives to reduce spray or fling-off. It works great, you can buy it anywhere, as cheap as $10 per gallon (a lifetime supply).

Some of the bike-specific lubes work fine, but they don't work any better than this stuff, and they cost a lot more. Like $5 per oz instead of 10 cents per oz.
 
I have started using a pure Silicone spray, it's much quicker. Do you guys think it is too light of a lube?
I don't really hammer on the pedals anymore and avoid rain when possible.
 
I went to wax a few months ago (speedwax) and I am super happy. I rotate chains every 2-300 miles and clean the old chain in a ultrasonic cleaner. The I melt the wax in a small crockpot and dip the chain. It's a little more work but my chain has been trouble free since I changed.

Like this
 
It stokes me that new chains are always waxed. The ultrasonic cleaning and wax dip makes sense, if a bit overkill for most. But I would think that removal, cleaning and waxing would be ideal.
 
It stokes me that new chains are always waxed. The ultrasonic cleaning and wax dip makes sense, if a bit overkill for most. But I would think that removal, cleaning and waxing would be ideal.
I guess I'm still buying 8 speed chains for my bikes and the kids, but they have all come greased. I can see how wax would be better though and I'm thinking of making the switch. Its going to be paraffin wax to start and see how that works. I have a bunch of cold weather fluorinated ski wax which we never seem to use so that might go in the pot too.
 
not a "mistake", it will just run really dirty. The common home brew trick is one part motor oil, 3 parts mineral spirits. The solvents have some cleaning properties and also help distribute the lube where it needs to go (between the rollers). The stuff on the plates really isn't doing anything except attracting dirt.
Or a gasoline, oil, and grease mix. Been doing that for decades, don't have any special dirty issues on road bikes if done timely. The stuff on the plates also isn't doing any harm.

Marketing and 'leet hobbyist propaganda causes people to do exotic and more expensive things to get the same job done, though I can appreciate extra effort if you have $450 each, components. If you are a pro racer, otherwise it's madness.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top