Do you think maybe the wear numbers increasing is just an effect of the synthetic oil cleaning up the crud that dino left attached to the inside of the engine?
I don't think that you can blame syns for higher wear. (at least not in most engines) Don't get me wrong, I use both syns and dinos, and think that both have their place.
I'm Quitting Synthetic
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quote:I believe that very point is discussed in a thread somewhere on this site. I remember it from the last month or two. Sorry I don't have my thumb on the thread, but maybe a search would turn it up.
Originally posted by 90hardbody: Do you think maybe the wear numbers increasing is just an effect of the synthetic oil cleaning up the crud that dino left attached to the inside of the engine?
Like Bob has said, the additive package can be more important than the base oil. Cheap oil can build crud, especially with lack of maintenance.
My particular engine has had syn most of it's life with short oci's, so I don't think any cleanout is a factor.
I agree with Haley10. I live in a warm climate and have used Castrol GTX 15w-40 for all of the 150,000 mile life of my Ford V8.
One other factor, there is a significant price difference here between dino and synthetic oils, and the cost/benefit doesn't compute.
Some synthetics here cost $80 and above for an oil change. Not worth it IMO.
If I was living in Canada, I might be tempted to use syn in winter.
Horses for courses. ![[Big Grin]](images/icons/grin.gif)
Dave
Dave$80 for an oil change?
Wow, glad I do it myself!
I disagree with you. I have seem many users of synthetic at the same milage I have gone on GTX.
They don't use anywhere near the oil that I do having done 3000 mile changes on GTX. I am trying to improve on the oil consumption which was 1 quart every 500 miles after 250,000 miles.
I know it will be at least 4 time better after the auto-rx treatment ie 1 quart every 2000 miles.
However this is still not as good as several users of Mobil 1 who use 1 quart every 5000 miles or less and use thinner oil.
Experience is the greatest teacher and it has taught me synthetics after 40 years working on automobiles. I also like the 6000 mile changes as opposed to 3000 mile changes. Rethink you decision. Talk to people like me who regularly drive 200,000+ on their cars. No offence intended. ![[Wink]](images/icons/wink.gif)
Yeah, if you can't get past the "short OCI" mentality, then using syn really doesn't get you anything (unless you've got a turbo engine). If I was willing to go back to intervals as short as 5k miles, I'd probably use a good dino HDMO.
Did not Amsoil just admit a few months ago or so that a good base oil is more important then a strong adds package?
BAH, NEED A DAMN EDIT BUTTON!
quote:Forgot to add the quote I commented on.
the additive package can be more important than the base oil.
i'm almost with haley on this. i've used mobil1 for about 43,000 of my car's 48000+ miles, and my iron is about 2.5 times the normal amount for subarus.
i'm running an auto-rx treatment. if my iron doesn't go down on the rest of my m1 stock i'm switching to a synth blend and giving it a shot to 5 or 6000 miles. i've been running the subaru recommended mileage (7500). my commute is 30 highway miles one way.
the pennzoil 5w-30 has quieted my car quite a bit as well. it no longer sounds like a deisel with that "handful of change" vibe.
quote:Amsoil puts most of their effort into the base stocks, as it was told to me by several Amsoil techs. Aaron and Jim V in particular are very informative and honest. When you look at Amsoil's formulations, they seem very anemic compared to RL, M1, Torco, Synergyn and others. I was told that certain additives are not good for long drains. I don't beleive this though and think Amsoil fools around more with the base oil maybe. I'm just guessing at all of this based on the bits and pieces of info. I've read from them. More specifically, Aaron told me that Series 2000 was never intended to be "race proven" by Amsoil. It was simply a fuel efficient oil but when several racing teams used it for qualifying runs, they noticed HP increases. If you drain your oil at 3-5k miles, stick with regular oil but if your racing or driving hard, I'd be much more concerned about deposits and crud left behind with a dino oil vs a synthetic, then a few ppm of Iron. I don't know of any engines that wear out from using the wrong oils, but I do know of high mileage engines that run like **** bc they are dirty inside and need a good dose of RX! [ February 26, 2004, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
Did not Amsoil just admit a few months ago or so that a good base oil is more important then a strong adds package?
haley10 I just swithched back to dino. I ran dino all my life, oh I'm 40, and never had an oil related problem crop up. I put well over 100k on every car/truck I ever owned.
I started running synthetic after discovering this board, which I must say I enjoy a great deal. However after reading thousands of posts I have too come to the conclusion that 3k OCIs with a good dino will serve my and my engine just fine. My Toyotas will purr for many years.
I just changed back to Castrol Syntec Blend. My engine isn't as loud as when I ran both 5w and 10w/30 M1, cold start isn't an issue, and I'm not running a hot engine.
Good luck on the dino train....wooo ![[Coffee]](/forums/graemlins/biggthumbcoffe.gif)
wooo
wooo Since most of us here don't go past 5k miles on ANY oil.....it makes a lot of sense to run dino.....maybe with the help of a good additive such as LC. Most of us try to convince ourselves of the benefits of synthetic oils and savings potential by extending the intervals.....we even preach it to other people, but the fact is 95-99% of us here don't even make it to 5k miles. In fact, if something, we are spending a train load of money draining so early and/or switching oil brands so often.
I agree with you haley....if you are not gonna see extreme temperatures (hot or cold) and are not interested in super long intervals, a cheap dino can make it to 5k+ miles in many engines.
I think I will stick with synthetics, for now and most likely Mobil 1 (although I have no reason to)....but that could change in the future.
Rick
Yeah, I agree with Last_Z. I run syn in my 2.7t motor for extended 10K-mi drains and to protect the turbos. The 5.7L Silverado gets dino.
Haley, what about MPG gains using synth over dino?
I figure that with the MPG gain, the oil change pays for itself at about the 5500mile mark. Can't do THAT with dino...
I'm quite surprised at how M1 5w-30 tames the DOHC Saturn beast MUCH better than even the Chevron/Havoline did--and Chevron did a good job! Much quieter than any dino I've tried. Of course, I ran Auto-Rx prior to this M1 run which helped. I just can't justify dino in my cars anymore with gains such as these...
quote:Many engines run smoother on a good synthetic like M1 bc they have more friction modifiers. M1 is only noisier bc it's more thin then some oils.
I'm quite surprised at how M1 5w-30 tames the DOHC Saturn beast MUCH better than even the Chevron/Havoline did--and Chevron did a good job!
![[Smile]](images/icons/smile.gif){kind=icon}
most of you guys i am guessing would run synthetic if it was the same price as dino oil.
well how about twice the price? you can buy a gallon of mobil1 long life from saab for $12 a gallon. thats only twice the cost of dino.
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