Ignition switch?

[supton]

I go to crank my 1999 Camry. I twist all the way, it starts to crank, then stops. Holding the key in the crank position, and wiggling all around, no change. Let off (so it snaps back to run), and it will give a bump to the motor. Twist to start, it cranks properly and it fires right off.

I'm thinking switch, but... should I look for anything else?

This started maybe a month ago, and the first few times I didn't know what it was... But the last 3 or so times I've gone to start the car, it's done this, so I think it's getting repeatable--and I fear at some point it's just going to stop working altogether.

 

[andyd]

Back in '01, I was in Buffalo, NY , 400 miles from home in my 528e with~200k miles. I went to start it and nothing happened, CLICK. Again, CLICK. Third time lucky, the solenoid made contact and threw the starter drive. Whew. I ordered a Bocsh rebuilt which worked flawlessly for 150 K miles. OTOH, my son's 528e, the switch failed due to his 3lb key ring.wearing on it..

 

[supton]

I make sure to keep my key chain light, only car keys.

I think changing starter would be easier than the switch, so I'd be pretty happy if it was that.

 

[Escape08]

I make sure to keep my key chain light, only car keys.

OTOH, my son's 528e, the switch failed due to his 3lb key ring.wearing on it..

Very true

 

[Lubener]

Jump battery to the input of the starter solenoid or the starter itself. If the cranking ability is the same, the starter should be removed for bench testing.

 

[zzyzzx]

I think changing starter would be easier than the switch...

We would probably need to know if it's the 4 cylinder or the V6.

 

[paulo57509]

I go to crank my 1999 Camry. I twist all the way, it starts to crank, then stops. Holding the key in the crank position, and wiggling all around, no change. Let off (so it snaps back to run), and it will give a bump to the motor. Twist to start, it cranks properly and it fires right off.

I'm thinking switch, but... should I look for anything else?

This started maybe a month ago, and the first few times I didn't know what it was... But the last 3 or so times I've gone to start the car, it's done this, so I think it's getting repeatable--and I fear at some point it's just going to stop working altogether.

The ignition switch looks similar to the one I just replaced in the Lexus. Mine fell apart when I removed it from the lock mechanism so I figured problem was identified. It had similar symptoms as you're having. Unfortunately, after all the effort to replace the switch, it didn't fix the problem.

Don't discount the starter relay. It's the only thing down stream of the ignition switch (ther than poor connections).

 

[eljefino]

I was in the switch on one of these, and, honestly, they aren't bad. Youtube and forums to your rescue.

I don't believe there's a chip, either, so you can unplug it and jumper the right wires to see if it cranks.

 

[Racer4]

My 1997 Explorer had a issue where it would not turn off. I thought it was the switch in the column, on this model Ford the actual switch is at the bottom of the steering column with a plastic geared rack from where the key goes to the actual starting switch.

 

[supton]

And it decided to work just fine the last three starts, go figure.

We would probably need to know if it's the 4 cylinder or the V6.

I4. Looks to be right out front and center. Was replaced a number of years ago by PO.

 

[zzyzzx]

And it decided to work just fine the last three starts, go figure.


I4. Looks to be right out front and center. Was replaced a number of years ago by PO.

If this is the type of starter that has a built in solenoid that's also a separately replaceable part, that would be something to independently check as well. Or it's a poor quality aftermarket part. Or it's not the starter. But that engine is really easy to work on.

 

[Astro14]

Exact same behavior in my old 4 Runner turned out to be the starter itself.

A bit of troubleshooting is in order. I would put a test lamp on the starter lead, the wire that energizes the solenoid, and see if the current from the switch is steady, or exhibiting the behavior you describe.

 

[supton]

Starting to sound like that is the way go. Certainly easier than pull the switch. This weekend I'll look into rigging something up, get a test light hooked up.

 

[supton]

Pulled the starter today. It's an hour to R&R, and that's not knowing what I'm doing. Simple cars FTW. Disconnect battery, pull airbox, then it's arguably easier than the old school V8's as it's all topside.

I did a quick google search and others have said the same issue, "stops cranking but will crank briefly when I let go" and they either replaced the starter or replaced the contacts.

Starter on the bench. Solenoid on top, motor on bottom (it's upside down from when it's in the car).

Remove the 3 Torx and voila! the plunger that both pushes the starter gear out and closes the contacts.

Plunger out. The bottom contact is rough. The upper one interestingly isn't. I'm guessing the plunger "slams down" harder on this one side? no idea.

"Lunar" is a good surface finish for contacts, right?

Sanded a bit, tried to lap the circular contact on the plunger a bit onto the contacts in the starter, but it's too hard to get a hold off. Will order a rebuild kit and R&R it at some later date. I put it back together, bumped it to verify it might work next time I need it, and am off to shop for parts now.