If you burn oil, would you change?

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Just thinking outloud.. especially after following 3mp's M1 experiment and seeing how the frequent replenishment affected the numbers, if my engine burns 1L of oil every 3,000km, I should be able to extend the interval to maybe 12-15K km since during that time I will have added 4-5L of fresh oil? Or maybe change the oil filter at 10,000km and extend the interval to 20,000km which would mean about 7L of top up oil? What do you guys think of this idea?
 
Personally-I would agree that you can extend quite a bit. But don't forget that vehicles that burn oil will also have more Nitration which leads to Oxidation and probably a lot more solids from combustion products (leaking rings). In other words that vehicle will be harder on the oil even though there is a great replacement factor. I'm not sure I would go quite that long on the filter either. This is certainly an opinion though
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And I am assuming that the vehicle is loosing the oil thru the rings
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In a word, yes. I don't agree with "just top it up". When your oil level drops, what you're seeing is the contaminated part that didn't burn off. So it doesn't mean that you can simply add more to it and think it's like you've done a partial oil change. Think about where the burn by-products went. Some went out the exhaust...others coated the inside of the engine parts with varnish, soot and sludge.

I would switch grades first, then think about switching brands.
 
Actually I don't know if it's because of the rings.. this is a Prelude H22a engine with VTEC which is famous for using oil, especially during VTEC. I think the rings are part of the problem since the few club members that were using a lot of oil, over 1L/1000km
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and got their shortblock replaced under warranty, stopped burning altogether.
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In my case the viscosity of the oil definitely affects the usage, M1 0w40 used about 1L/4000km, now with the GC 0w30 it looks to be about 1L/3000km.

[ November 04, 2003, 01:36 PM: Message edited by: Quick_lude ]
 
I think I'd go back to the M1, or even try Delvac 1 or Rotella Synthetic if you want to extend the drain. Don't be mesmerized by the sights and smells of GC!

[ November 04, 2003, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: doyall ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by doyall:
I think I'd go back to the M1, or even try Delvac 1 or Rotella Synthetic if you want to extend the drain. Don't be mesmerized by the sights and smells of GC!

I agree, he shouldn't use GC! (especially since he buys his GC from the same Walmart as me, so this leaves a bigger supply for me if he doesn't buy it!)
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quote:

Originally posted by Quick_lude:
Actually I don't know if it's because of the rings.. this is a Prelude H22a engine with VTEC which is famous for using oil, especially during VTEC. I think the rings are part of the problem since the few club members that were using a lot of oil, over 1L/1000km
shocked.gif
and got their shortblock replaced under warranty, stopped burning altogether.
dunno.gif


In my case the viscosity of the oil definitely affects the usage, M1 0w40 used about 1L/4000km, now with the GC 0w30 it looks to be about 1L/3000km.


What kind of oil viscosity was usually used by these few club members with high oil consumption ? I put twice Motul 0W-40 for October-April period and both times the consumption was quite noticable in comparison with 300V 10W-40 and 15W-50. The oil level was remaining intact with both oils after 4.000 km on German highways in summer time.

What is the situation with H22A oil recommendations in USA and Canada ? I suppose Honda does not recommend 5W-30 oils for above 0 deg C too and there are no 0W-X oils in the manual. Thanks for your info.
 
Honda did reccomend 5w30 for the North American climate all year round, it's even on the gas cap. In other parts of the world, I'm pretty sure a 40 weight was recommended. I'll probably switch back to the M1 0w40 for the spring.. getting rid of the car anyway so I'm not very concerned about it.
 
Have you consicered sweetening the oil with lube control according to the directions dureing this 20,000K experiment? Lube control and filter change half way through would probably control alot of the issues with the nitration and oxdation. This is just my $.02 though.
 
Above 0 C - min. 10W-30, but given this grade is not widely available in Europe, it is 5W-40 synthetic or 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil, at least in cars under the warranty. Then everybody puts the oil he considers the best: from 0W-30 A3/B3 to 15W-50.

Majority of European oil manufacturers don't risk to recommend their newest products, i.e. 0W-30, 0W-40 and 5W-30 synthetics, for Honda H22A1 and H22A2 engines for all year round use. The same story with many Audi and Renault models even for 5W-40 synthetic oils.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Quick_lude:
Honda did reccomend 5w30 for the North American climate all year round, it's even on the gas cap. In other parts of the world, I'm pretty sure a 40 weight was recommended. I'll probably switch back to the M1 0w40 for the spring.. getting rid of the car anyway so I'm not very concerned about it.

What will you be replacing it with?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Tim H.:
you have to consider this also, if it is burning that much oil, why bother changing it at all? it will need rebuilt soon anyhow right?

Nope. According to Honda, anything less than 1.5L / 1000KM (621 miles) is normal.
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A lot of people just top up...
 
quote:

According to Honda, anything less than 1.5L / 1000KM (621 miles) is normal.

Is this correct? Honda (Acura) recommends 6000km (3728mi) change intervals; for my Integra. My oil capacity is 4L, so using the new math I'd burn 9L in 6000 km. Um, that's -5 litres people. Just ignore it, let the motor seize at 2700km and see if they'll replace it. Heh.
 
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