I Ohm'd my son's stock electric fuel pump from his import car. It read 0.00. I applied power and it seemed like it was working steady but weak. Do the Zeroes mean it's bad or on it's way out?
if electric fuel pump reads "0.00" with Ohm meter,it's faulty?
- Thread starter daves66nova
- Start date
1-2 Ohms would be considered normal. But it's obviously not shorted like your resistance test would lead you to believe either. I'd likely question your meters accuracy.
Measuring resistance is prevalent in automotive diagnostic literature, But.....With few exceptions.....I find it to be just about useless. Amperage ramps & signatures via a scope paint a much clearer picture (For me anyway)
Measuring resistance is prevalent in automotive diagnostic literature, But.....With few exceptions.....I find it to be just about useless. Amperage ramps & signatures via a scope paint a much clearer picture (For me anyway)
Did it have a good ground?
I used an Amprobe ACDC 3000 meter
Do you have a pic of your 66 Nova? I'm a 60's early 70's muscle car freak!
Re: the 66 Nova, Well, at least they are easy to work on, plenty of room under the hood. And simple. No computers onboard. Very easy to figure out what the problem is if it ever does not start.
Is that a 2 door?
6 or 8, if 8 is it the 327? I loved the power and fuel economy of the 327.
Standard or automatic, and if standard is it 3 on the tree, or 4 on the floor? If automatic what trany?
What gear ratio in the rear?
Points or converted to the simple solid state module inside the distributor?
I did not think anything that old would be allowed on the road in CA with all the low pollution standards there.
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As to the fuel pump, the resistance reading of 0.00 just indicates that it is too low for the meter to get a good reading on. It could be a dead short, but more than likely it is just too low for the meter.
I would not run it without fuel going through it. Some pump designs can not tolerate being run dry, and it will damage it if it is one of those.
I would see how many Amps it draws, but be sure to fuse the circuit you rig to run it ( especially since the 0.00 reading could be a dead short ). Do a simple flow test from one big bucket to another big bucket. But be sure to not create any sparks anywhere near that much gas. Long leads to the switch so if the switch makes a spark it is far away from the gas would be a great idea. Just flow test it for 30 seconds and that should tell you plenty about its capacity.
The down side to any flow test is that if you do use gasoline, you may not be able to ship it after if it still has any gas smell, if you have to ship it to your son.
Is that a 2 door?
6 or 8, if 8 is it the 327? I loved the power and fuel economy of the 327.
Standard or automatic, and if standard is it 3 on the tree, or 4 on the floor? If automatic what trany?
What gear ratio in the rear?
Points or converted to the simple solid state module inside the distributor?
I did not think anything that old would be allowed on the road in CA with all the low pollution standards there.
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As to the fuel pump, the resistance reading of 0.00 just indicates that it is too low for the meter to get a good reading on. It could be a dead short, but more than likely it is just too low for the meter.
I would not run it without fuel going through it. Some pump designs can not tolerate being run dry, and it will damage it if it is one of those.
I would see how many Amps it draws, but be sure to fuse the circuit you rig to run it ( especially since the 0.00 reading could be a dead short ). Do a simple flow test from one big bucket to another big bucket. But be sure to not create any sparks anywhere near that much gas. Long leads to the switch so if the switch makes a spark it is far away from the gas would be a great idea. Just flow test it for 30 seconds and that should tell you plenty about its capacity.
The down side to any flow test is that if you do use gasoline, you may not be able to ship it after if it still has any gas smell, if you have to ship it to your son.
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Yes, 2 door. 194 original engine , with headers,cam, 2bbl Holley, Offy intake. Original PowerGlide . Stock gears Hei with Crane HI-6 box.
IIRC...anything pre-72(?) is emissions exempt. (please correct me if I'm wrong)
that's a big part why the Motortrend guys stick to the old stuff on their shows....
Nice Nova. Don't hear too many keeping the 194, small motor. I'd probably swap out the 'glide if it was me, I'd think it'd wake it right up. Not sure how hard it'd be to get a lockup TH-350 in there; 200R4 would be the bee's knee's but then it likely would need rear gears too. And then it's just one thing after another... brakes, suspension... probably wiser to leave it as it is!
I'd first check the meter by touching the leads against each other. It looks like an auto-ranging meter but I'd check to make sure it wasn't in meg-ohm range or kilo-ohm range, which would confuse things. After that... it'd blow fuses if it was 0ohms.
Err... did you mean you tried to measure current, not ohms? If so, then you have to put only one of the pump wires through the jaws. If you put both you will read zero, or near enough. This meter works by measuring magnetic field, and having both pos and neg wires through it would lead to field cancelization, which leads to... zero measured current.
Next up, make sure it's not trying to measure AC amps.
I'd first check the meter by touching the leads against each other. It looks like an auto-ranging meter but I'd check to make sure it wasn't in meg-ohm range or kilo-ohm range, which would confuse things. After that... it'd blow fuses if it was 0ohms.
Err... did you mean you tried to measure current, not ohms? If so, then you have to put only one of the pump wires through the jaws. If you put both you will read zero, or near enough. This meter works by measuring magnetic field, and having both pos and neg wires through it would lead to field cancelization, which leads to... zero measured current.
Next up, make sure it's not trying to measure AC amps.
what I did was disconnect wiring, connect both leads to the pump terminals. I don't think that this meter has any adjustment for ohms, just 1 setting.
You can put it into manual range mode, but no sense in learning that here.
Not sure here. Usually it shows a leading 1 with no zeros when it's out of range (resistance too high). Maybe the pump uses tank metal as ground, and uses 2 power wires? That would seem odd to me, but that would get you a nice zero ohms (due to a legitimate short between the wires).
Usually DC motors have a low resistance, and once running they draw less current. But not zero resistance!
Not sure here. Usually it shows a leading 1 with no zeros when it's out of range (resistance too high). Maybe the pump uses tank metal as ground, and uses 2 power wires? That would seem odd to me, but that would get you a nice zero ohms (due to a legitimate short between the wires).
Usually DC motors have a low resistance, and once running they draw less current. But not zero resistance!
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