I Think LSPI killed my Tucson tonight

Neglected maintenance? You always this rude? 😂 If you read through the thread you will see this vehicle has had 3k mile OCIs with top tier synthetics mostly M1 5w30 and VME both of which are low calcium blends and marketed for T-GDI engines.

Transmission fluid and gear oil
(Diffs) changed every 35k miles. Spark plugs every 40k with factory densos. PCV valve changed 4 times in its lifetime.

This is a Hyundai Family vehicle not a Ferrari. How much more thorough maintenance is required? Subpar manufacturer IMO.
Two things.

First, rude. This is BITOG. We are not here for feelings. We are here to get at the ultimate truth about motor oil. If a few feathers are ruffled along the way, that's even better.

Second, Ferrari. If this were a Ferrari, the issue would not be LSPI, or detonation, or improper oil, or slacking on maintenance. The issue would be oil consumption.

🤠
 
Neglected maintenance? You always this rude? 😂 If you read through the thread you will see this vehicle has had 3k mile OCIs with top tier synthetics mostly M1 5w30 and VME both of which are low calcium blends and marketed for T-GDI engines.

Transmission fluid and gear oil
(Diffs) changed every 35k miles. Spark plugs every 40k with factory densos. PCV valve changed 4 times in its lifetime.

This is a Hyundai Family vehicle not a Ferrari. How much more thorough maintenance is required? Subpar manufacturer IMO.
LOL I was thinking of excess intake-valve deposits, which could have been cleaned periodically.
 
LOL I was thinking of excess intake-valve deposits, which could have been cleaned periodically.

One could argue that sure. I think it’s kinda silly that one would need to do that on a “run of the mill” grocery getter. It’s a great driving and looking car, but Hyundai needs to figure out how to make the car easier to maintain and that would include finding a solution on new models to reduce carbon buildup as Honda and Toyota have done, especially seeing they are now priced the same as their competitors.
 
Doesn't Hyundai/Kia have a 100,000-mile drivetrain warranty?

Oh, wait, the vehicle has 105,000 miles. Why do these things happen as soon as the warranty expires? :(

 
Has it been determined if this is LSPI, pre-ignition knock or detonation? All three are different and have different causes. Two generally cause catastrophic damage.
 
87 is great for marketing and cheap consumers. Small turbo on a small engine with lots of quick boost and boom. 87 was a horrible choice on my Hyundai 2.0t and VW 1.4t.
I agree.
I'm running 91 on my DI 1.5 Honda and given the performance improvements with it, I couldn't bring myself to torture it with 87.
 
Were you running an API SP oil? Those oils are suppossed to have Low Speed Pre-ignition protection.
Please share what brand, model, and viscosity oil you were using.

If I had to make a wild guess, I would guess that that you had oil changed at a dealer or quick lube place. Both use the cheapest "no name bulk oil " they can find. Who knows what certifications those oils have.

I had taken one of my vehicles to the Honda dealer a while back for an oil change. The service advisor routed it to the Express Oil Lube part of the dealership. The guys were very young, and were not mechanics at all. All they do is oil changes. When I asked them if they were using Honda branded oil, they pointed to a long hose which went up to the ceiling which led to a bulk oil container with no visible writing on it and no viscosity indicated either. After they were done, I checked the oil and it was a quart low. I brought it back and they verified it was low and added a quart. Will never trust a dealer again for oil changes. To add insult to injury, they charged $60 for that oil change.
 
Spoke to my Mechanic who has done a handful of these. He said most of the time it’s the exhaust valve that gets burnt. He said usually a cylinder head and valve job will be all that’s needed. He said since it wasn’t smoking the rings are likely still tight. In his experience the debris go right out the exhaust and the cylinders are usually not affected. We will have to open mine up to see.

In his experience the bottom end on the 1.6T is tough and when they carbon up and detonate the exhaust valve and the plugs go and it’s usually cylinder #3 and #2. He said if the cylinder wall looks as good as the others that all read near 150psi we will probably do a complete head job. Clean the carbon from the intake, clean the throttle body and replace the timing components and it will probably live another 100k

He said moving forward the intake should be pulled every 40-50k and carbon cleaned off the valves and to run PEA injection cleaner every other fill up to keep combustion chamber carbon down and keep injectors clean. He also recommended premium fuel moving forward after the repair/rebuild/replace.

He’s going to schedule me in next week to pull the head. I’ll update after that.
Sell it before the next 40k
 
Were you running an API SP oil? Those oils are suppossed to have Low Speed Pre-ignition protection.
Please share what brand, model, and viscosity oil you were using.

If I had to make a wild guess, I would guess that that you had oil changed at a dealer or quick lube place. Both use the cheapest "no name bulk oil " they can find. Who knows what certifications those oils have.

I had taken one of my vehicles to the Honda dealer a while back for an oil change. The service advisor routed it to the Express Oil Lube part of the dealership. The guys were very young, and were not mechanics at all. All they do is oil changes. When I asked them if they were using Honda branded oil, they pointed to a long hose which went up to the ceiling which led to a bulk oil container with no visible writing on it and no viscosity indicated either. After they were done, I checked the oil and it was a quart low. I brought it back and they verified it was low and added a quart. Will never trust a dealer again for oil changes. To add insult to injury, they charged $60 for that oil change.
M1 SP 5w30
 
Sounds like none of the above, just a bad design 🤷‍♂️
Has it been determined if this is LSPI, pre-ignition knock or detonation? All three are different and have different causes. Two generally cause catastrophic damage.

Bad design, Valves that are prone to pitting (according to machinist) and as a result engine suffered spark knock due to ECU leaning out ratios (according to Indy mechanic). One valve in cylinder #2 had a chip.

Head is being redone with all new valves and is in the process of repair right now.

Pistons, bore, and all timing components still look brand new with very minimal wear and only light varnish. Engine has had M1 5w30 or VME 5w30 every 3k-4K max since I’ve owned it (bought at 24k miles). Before that it was a dealer serviced lease with 5-6k OCIs (QS semi-Syn 5w30 if I recall)
 
Doesn't Hyundai/Kia have a 100,000-mile drivetrain warranty?

Oh, wait, the vehicle has 105,000 miles. Why do these things happen as soon as the warranty expires? :(

Right!?

Crazy, it’s almost as if they “know”
 
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