I tested 2 oil Additives, Here are my results. Mos2 and LUBEGARDD

[rollinpete]

1st video MOS2, 2nd video LUBEGARD. Both Tests were done Identical.

 

[LeakySeals]

Am I the only one that gets no audio watching YouTube on BITOG? If I go over to YouTube to watch this, I can hear it.

 

[demarpaint]

Trav had mentioned having similar observations a few years back. As a result I wouldn't use the product again either.

 

[wemay]

Yup, I keep telling my buddy... "stop using MoS2 in in empty glass jars, it does nothing for them."

 

[LeakySeals]

Nice. The VOA of the 30916 looks great. I wonder what the difference is from the 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals

Nice. The VOA of the 30916 looks great. I wonder what the difference is from the 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant

There's no difference, it was discussed here before. IIRC the HD version only comes in quarts and was targeted for diesel engines with larger sumps. Chemically they're identical formulations. There's a thread here where a member asked the company, via email, and he posted the answer, I just can't find it. LOL

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by LeakySeals

Nice. The VOA of the 30916 looks great. I wonder what the difference is from the 30901 Bio/Tech Engine Oil Protectant

It was too late to edit, I found it. Too late to edit:

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo

Another email to Lubegard. BioTech and Heavy Duty Engine Protectant are the same thing, just different package sizes. Me: Pat, I really appreciate your reply on the phosphorous content. One other question though as I am quite the noob on the chemistry side; I read several people discussing ester-based engine oils as having very good cleaning properties while obviously not being as �harsh� as something like an engine flush. So if you don�t mind, if you could answer a couple quick questions and I�ll be a very satisfied customer! 1. Are Bio/Tech and HD engine protectant (HDEP) the same product just packaged differently? If not, what are the main differences since the website does not explicitly state them? 2. Are the esters in Bio/Tech & HDEP the kind that will help remove varnish and sludging over time? What is Lubegard�s best product with these goals in mind? 3. If I am looking at extending my drain intervals while maintaining TBN and active cleansing agents, what is Lubegard�s best product for that? Lubegard: We always appreciate positive interest in our engine oil supplement Bio-Tech. We have acquired quite a following for this product both domestically and internationally. It is designed to work with the additive package in the engine oil you select for your regular service. It will enhance the additive pack in the oil and will provide protection when the additive package in the oil does not provide the desired properties or placement to prevent wear and reduce friction. It will also extend the oxidative stability of the oil reducing varnish and deposits allowing extended oil change intervals and lessening the detrimental effects of additive depletion engine oils often experience. Your questions: 1. They are the same product packaged differently for applications with larger oil sumps than passenger cars and light trucks. 2. The esters will work to prevent sludge and deposits but is not designed to remove them. The mineral base oils are more the source of concern. 3. The Bio-Tech is our best engine product and will extend drain intervals. Pat Burrow

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by demarpaint

Trav had mentioned having similar observations a few years back. As a result I wouldn't use the product again either.

That Liqui moly crap does the same thing in the engine and it does not mix again once it has fallen out. This is bad stuff.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Ruined my Honda fit engine in about 2 days. . And I only put a 1/3 can in premixed with a 1/2 qt of oil. Boy did rant on to the LM fanboys every time it popped in a thread. Its teh Last time I listened to a BITOG recommendation against my better judgement. Now some LM is in my unfiltered non-pressure lubed Chonda Generac engine and it doing fine in there with some Valvoline 10W30 Racing Synthetic. No filters to clog or pickup screens to mud up. rollinpete did overtreat in his "experiment". Maybe not per the bottle instruction, but by how much moS2 you would really need to be beneficial without gumming up the works. LIkely a couple oz in a big sump. Stuff works good on my oven ignitor sheet metal screws as a high temp anti seize! Likely good on hinges and cold sliding parts.

 

[4WD]

I hear they have stuff coming out this Christmas … in quarts, liters, and jugs … and you can add 4 quarts to 8 quarts right in the fill cap hole … and it does not need any snake oil supplements … Sneak preview

 

[Mad_Hatter]

Lubegard to my understanding uses no solid lubricants so I would have been surprised to find any. It has moly, gobs of it, but not the MoS2 type. It also has a wax ester (carrier?) I believe. It appears to be one of the few products that might actually be beneficial, if using addys is your thing. I've come to the same conclusion as Trav in re MoS2 - not going in my engine if I can help it.

 

[Lowflyer]

Originally Posted by Trav

Originally Posted by demarpaint

Trav had mentioned having similar observations a few years back. As a result I wouldn't use the product again either.

That Liqui moly crap does the same thing in the engine and it does not mix again once it has fallen out. This is bad stuff.

MoS2 has never be good. Regardless of who. His uncle, hexagonal boron nitride was always better. For engines and for gears. But take care, use solid stuff adds in engines first, ~400 miles after oil change. Put in the hot oil, let run 5min in idle, ensuing drive relaxed 15min. Done. This is the right way to do it. Dosage? Always ignore makers directions and put only max. 1% of oil volume. Then all becomes works fine.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted by 4WD

I hear they have stuff coming out this Christmas … in quarts, liters, and jugs … and you can add 4 quarts to 8 quarts right in the fill cap hole … and it does not need any snake oil supplements … Sneak preview

Two winners in my book. I think ESP is a sleeper that is going to catch on here in a big way. Time will tell.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by Lowflyer

Originally Posted by Trav

Originally Posted by demarpaint

Trav had mentioned having similar observations a few years back. As a result I wouldn't use the product again either.

That Liqui moly crap does the same thing in the engine and it does not mix again once it has fallen out. This is bad stuff.

MoS2 has never be good. Regardless of who. His uncle, hexagonal boron nitride was always better. For engines and for gears. But take care, use solid stuff adds in engines first, ~400 miles after oil change. Put in the hot oil, let run 5min in idle, ensuing drive relaxed 15min. Done. This is the right way to do it. Dosage? Always ignore makers directions and put only max. 1% of oil volume. Then all becomes works fine.

Hexagonal boron nitride (aka white graphite) in the form of Ceratec does the same exact thing, just say no to solids of any type in the oil IMO.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by demarpaint

Originally Posted by 4WD

I hear they have stuff coming out this Christmas … in quarts, liters, and jugs … and you can add 4 quarts to 8 quarts right in the fill cap hole … and it does not need any snake oil supplements … Sneak preview

Two winners in my book. I think ESP is a sleeper that is going to catch on here in a big way. Time will tell.

The ESP is very good oil.

 

[Lowflyer]

Originally Posted by Trav

Hexagonal boron nitride (aka white graphite) in the form of Ceratec does the same exact thing

Ha ha. No, do not. HBN dont "squished" quick like MoS2 to utter ineffectiveness. And, more important, it does not becomes lumpy, in the meanwhile The only but one big problem with MoS2: If it become lumpy in front of bearing (all of it) gaps. It made a barriers "against" oil throughflow.

Quote

just say no to solids of any type in the oil IMO.

That's right. For first ~500 miles after oil change. Hence, oils with HBN does not exist. Solid lubricating components can't be added in the plant therefore. Why ~500 miles? In the time the new oil solves old filth from the previous oil. Thereafter this is no longer so important. And for safety of solid components, dont overdosage. Overdosage is (IMHO), more than 1%. With 1% after 500 miles you are safe. Guarantees. I am using HBN in many cars since 500.000 miles (accumulated to all cars in the family)

 

[Malo83]

Oil additives, Pffffttt! This is all you need.

 

[Lowflyer]

Viskosity? This is simply Shell PurePlus. With tons of UOAs, which are more good or less good, but never paramount... Right? Complete protection, complete performance, complete PR-blahblah.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by Lowflyer

Viskosity? This is simply Shell PurePlus. With tons of UOAs, which are more good or less good, but never paramount... Right? Complete protection, complete performance, complete PR-blahblah.

Wow wee.

 

[Lowflyer]

Quote

Wow wee.

Yes. Therefore I like your evenhandedness. And your focus on the nitty-gritty. good night