I saw a proper aftermarket LED setup

[Klutch9]

On a 2-door Chevy Cobalt (the ones with the 2 round tail lights on each side). Instead of an incandescent bulb, the owner had put LED's in each one. Normally, these bulbs are only bright dots that don't 'spray' light anything like the incandescents do, making them unsafe. However, I was surprised how well these LED's filled the housings - albeit small - with bright and visible light. I can honestly say they were at least as good as OEM, as there was another 2-door Cobalt next to it at a light to compare. I think the small light housings had something to do with it, but it looked good nonetheless.

 

[david_ES2]

Nice he probably used a led bulb with multiple smds.
im looking to change my rear brake lights soon to smd led like that, for the deep red look and instant on and off.

 

[nleksan]

One of the reasons I have LED tails... OEM parts, too.

 

[Klutch9]

The LED bulbs did have multiple SMD's per bulb, probably 7 or 8. I'd put LED bulbs in my car in a snap, but I don't wanna have to splice resistors into my wiring. Any way around this?

 

[HerrStig]

Superbright Led'.com for a big choice ofdirect plugins. The problem is not getting 12V bulbs with the correct socket, but confusing "bulb out" indicators, or making turn signal flasher units behave as though a bulb is out (the ricer look) A solid state flasher unit (plug in) from Superbright will solve the ricer problem but the bulb out indicator for the taillights can't be fooled. The circuit looks for proper current draw. I use the black tape over the warning light system, since the led bullbs are very long life.

 

[HerrStig]

YOu CAN fool the bulb out sensor system with resistors but THEY draw as much current as the filament bulbs - which is how they fool the system- you still get the nice LED look, but don't save any power.

 

[exranger06]

I have LEDs in the fron turn signals on my Ranger. My particular housing design allows the LEDs to work just as well as an incandescent bulb. I solved the flasher issue by installing an LED-compatible flasher, and I don't have a "bulb out" indicator on the dash.

 

[HerrStig]

MY Toyota product has lousy backup lights, the standard issue wedge socket 921's. I found a plug in LED replacement at Superbright which is MUCH brighter, draws less current, and won't melt the bulb socket or lens, although that isn't a big problem with backup lights. Unlike a certain European army, I don't use them that much. I had a SAAB with lousy backup lights, I put in some H3s which had been modded with the proper socket and got better light, but they drew enough extra current that in time they fried the backup light relay. NO big deal to change, but LED's would have avoided that. I run my parking lamps all the time, with oversize filament type upgrades for more light you CAN melt a lamp housing or lens.