@#$%, I put an orange can of death on my truck!

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j_mac

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I only recently started looking at the oil filter forum. A month ago I put German Castrol and a Fram orange can on my truck. Was this a big mistake?
Last winter when the temperature was in the single digits and I would start my truck early in the morning after running for several seconds I would get this horrendous metallic KNOCK,KNOCK,KNOCK,KNOCK...
It had German Castrol in it then with an orange can.
I freaked and thought there might be something up with my batch of GC, so I changed it out to Mobil conventional 5w-30 and an orange can. Got the same KNOCK...
DO you guys think this is an orange can problem or a problem with my truck.

All the knocking takes place with single digit temperatures.

Could the orange can element and/or anti drain back valve collapse due to the low temps and high viscosities that quick and cause some sort of oil starvation?
 
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could be from the orange can, or it could be because its in the single digits, change filters and see if that works. simple.
 
It could be the nitrile ADBV. Try one with a silicone valve and see if it makes a difference.

P.S. You don't have to dump the oil to change the filter. You shouldn't even lose ½ a quart. Even less if your ADBV isn't holding.
 
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
could be from the orange can, or it could be because its in the single digits, change filters and see if that works. simple.


+1 try a different filter brand and see if it helps
 
Wow I think you wasted some good oil. Always change the cheapest things first, usually in this situation it is the filter.

WOW GC and a OCOD. That is like having a filet mignon with Winn Dixie brand potato chips as a side.
 
Originally Posted By: Texan4Life
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
could be from the orange can, or it could be because its in the single digits, change filters and see if that works. simple.


+1 try a different filter brand and see if it helps

Its a shame you wasted that good oil....when you could have just changed out the filter (without draining the oil).

Depending on your intended OCI...I would suggest a Purolator PureOne for OCI's of 7500+/-. For 10 to 15K OCI's...Mobil 1EP would be my choice.

Stay away from Fram except for their $9 (WM) XG.
______________________________________
2003 Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec) / 92K
Oil: Mobil 1 5W20EP / OCI: 1 Yr.or 10K +/-
Filter: Mobil 1EP
 
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Chubbs wrote:
Wow I think you wasted some good oil. Always change the cheapest things first, usually in this situation it is the filter.

WOW GC and a OCOD. That is like having a filet mignon with Winn Dixie brand potato chips as a side.


I laughed my [censored] off at the second part of Chubbs quote! LOL!
But be easy on me. I've only recently started looking at the filter forum and only realized what an OCOD is! To be honest The main reason I've been buying OCODs is that I really like the 1 cent wrinkle coat of grip stuff on them as I like to put on my filters with 3/4 turn and be able to manhandle them back off without tools. ...But now I've been given the OCOD omen.

I didn't waste the German Castrol. It was about time to change it anyway. But the first change I did was with GC. Got the KNOCK again, drained that GC with 249 miles on it and saved it as a test. Then I put the Mobil in with the same OCOD.
You see, I was suffering from OCOD ignorance. Thats why I'm thinking the Orange Cans of Death may have been my problem all along. Maybe GC is so good that it instantly turns the end caps of a OCOD into a Winn Dixie potato chip since that end cap could likely be "eaten up" by such a high grade synthetic. I've heard that certain syns can attack and kill certain types of plastics.

Please give me your thoughts.
 
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I too suffered from the OCOD demon. I can say I ran a 1972 Gremlin 250K miles with those filters before they turned to junk. Furthermore, the first few oil changes I used non-detergent Quaker State....ACK!

I think if you try any good filter with a silicone valve would help.

Machines do funny things in the cold like that.

Mobil 1 EP would be a good choice.

I still cant bring myself to running oil more than 5k. I have an old carburetor car. Fuel injection does not dilute oil nearly as much.

Dan
 
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R.I.P.

poor Truck

15.gif
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Sure sounds like a drain-back problem-is the filter down by the pan, mounted open-side up? If not, at least you shouldn't lose much oil when you change it-it'll all be down in the pan!
 
What kind of truck? If a Ford try one of the Motorcraft filters with the silicone ADBV. Also, is the engine spec'ed for 5W-30 or 5W-20? Isn't the German Castrol pretty thick stuff? You may need an oil with better cold flow properties.
 
I`d say it was the oil and not the filter. Only time I ever experienced cold start engine knock was on my 3000GT with Syntec 10W30. I donated the rest of the Syntec I had to my friend to put in his Olds Ciera. Did the very same thing to his car. Try a top dino oil and I bet you`ll have no more startup knock (Pennzoil,Valvoline,etc).
 
Yes, people actually don't believe about OCOD. They always said, I have used it for a lot of years and it never gives any problem.
Until, their engine went out and there is no explanation for it.

The White Purolator is better at around the same general price point.
 
The only start up knock that I've had was due to a F**m filter.

Swapped the filter, knock went away.

No more F**m..
 
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
What kind of truck? If a Ford try one of the Motorcraft filters with the silicone ADBV. Also, is the engine spec'ed for 5W-30 or 5W-20? Isn't the German Castrol pretty thick stuff? You may need an oil with better cold flow properties.
^^^This^^^
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i dont use the orange can put that into google and you will see all kinds of things

The YouTube vids are hilarious..
 
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