I need a Chainsaw

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
There is a realy nice chain sharpening device that you attach to the end of the bar when the engine is off. You then start the saw and press the end of the sharpener (the end far from you) against something for three seconds while the throtle is up enought to make the chain move. Then stop saw and remove sharpener. That quick, you have a sharp chain.

This comes with a 16 inch bar, and you can get them for husky, and stihl saws. Look on e-bay. You have to get a chain made fot it, and each chain comes with a stone you put in the sharpener.

A chain saw without a sharp chain is about as usefull as a butter knife.

Interesting, I like the idea of a spare chain, as I do not like to sharpen the chain on the saw. I prefer to have the chain in the jaws of a vice.

Hope the saw works well for you. It looks a lot better thought out than my old 141.
For sharpening I think the old round file and a clip on guide is the best as you can touch up the chain every couple tanks or when you get a gritty log out of the slash pile. I read on arboristsite that the powersharp system is working pretty well too, only available on smaller saws right now but might be worth looking into when you're done your chains.

 

[660mag]

Originally Posted By: boraticus
Originally Posted By: 660mag
Originally Posted By: G.Frost
All Stihl saws are made by Stihl, Not Poulan.
If you are breaking chains and have mufflers falling off, sounds like some other issues are at work. This is the most dangerous tool in the shed..... careful.


I personal think the tree is more dangerous than the saw, but really a hedge trimmer sends more people to the er than chainsaws.


I personally think that an inexperienced operator is more dangerous than both.

A hedge trimmer might nip off one's finger. A chainsaw however might nip off one's leg. Controlling the bleeding in a nipped off finger in one's back yard is fairly achievable. Doing the same on a sawed off stump of a person's leg, out in the sticks.....

The magnitude of severity of injury increases considerably with a chain saw. Other contributing factors such as being further away from medical treatment and/or lack of immediate attention usually conspire to result in often very serious consequences.

Touche.

 

[JimPghPA]

There are chainsaw safety pants (some are made by stihl), that have special fibers built into them. These fibers explode outward and jam the chain so the saw stops quickly if it touches the pants. The are on e-bay, prices start at $50.

Did not see the safety video before I wrote this, but that is what I am talking about. There are also jackets, but I do not know for sure if they are of the same quality.

 

[raffy]

I have a fairly old (12 or so years) Stihl 029 Farm Boss with an 18" bar. The current Stihl equivalent is the MS290. This is a great chainsaw and can be had for around $350 (maybe around $300 if on sale) or so new if you shop around and bargain a bit. I used it some for cutting firewood years ago when we lived in a house that had a wood stove/fireplace. But in recent years I have primarily used this saw for various disaster relief activities, such as post-Hurricane-Katrina tree removal on the Gulf coast and cleanup after the recent tornadoes in north Alabama. It has worked flawlessly through all these episodes and all I have done to it is change the air filter and keep the several chains I have for it sharp. I recommend this saw as a good all around saw that has enough power to do most jobs around the house or farm. Stihl makes fine equipment!

Ditto the comments on chainsaw safety. I've met many folks who are afraid of guns, but I fear a chainsaw much more than any gun. I'm a fairly experienced user of both, and I'm far more afraid of the chainsaw! Make sure you keep it in front of you at all times when it's running, and make sure you are in a stable standing position and that there are no branches or other obstacles that could cause you to trip or lose your balance while cutting. I don't have any chainsaw chaps but they sure are a good idea!

 

[JBinKC]

I am in a similar situation as you I cut about 2 - 2 1/2 cords of firewood per year and most my cutting is under 12 " in diameter.

Although it can be underpowered I run a MS 170 and it does a fine job for limbing up to its bar length (14") provided you can maintain a sharp chain. The saw has run 6 years for me with no problems other than 1 spark plug change.


If money is no object: a Stihl MS 260/261 would be my first choice given its versatility as it can handle the bigger stuff if you run into it and the saw is very light weight for its power.

A lower cost second choice would be a limbing saw. My first choice would be an Echo CS 346 and a Stihl MS 170 or 180 would be my second.