I may have made a mistake buying a new truck last week... thoughts?

Messages
2,039
Location
Wisconsin
So here is the story (kind of long)...

I was having problems with my 2018 XLT, way too many since bought new two and a half years ago. With trade-in values nuts right now, I traded it in on a new RAM 1500 Laramie. I test drove some locally, would have preferred the regular HEMI (non-etorque), but drove the etorque and thought I'd be OK with it. I worked many dealers against each other, ended up buying an etorque truck two and a half hours away. After driving the etorque locally on the roads I drive every day, I'm not liking how it drives. Also, the 20s are much more firm that I would prefer (but not a deal breaker) now that I'm on the roads I drive every day.

I am only considering changing it out because I got such a good deal, and the market is such, that I won't lose my @$$. It was $55,055 MSRP, I paid about $43,550 which is at least $2000 cheaper than most dealers were at, and I got $35,500 on my trade and most dealers were at least $1000 less (and those that were good on the new truck price were typically not good on trade, and vise versa).

For reference, my old F150 payment was $650.

So I have some options:

1. Keep it for probably 2-3 years and in the mean time not love how it drives.

After 2 years the RAM is expected to be worth 70%, so probably $30-32k on trade in a normal market. My loan would be down to about $18k by then if I went a 5 year (about $550/month) for a net positive equity of about $12-14k. This would be around $5k/yr ownership cost depreciation, which I like to be at or under $3500.

2. Trade it in and purchase a different one.

The in-town dealer has offered me $41,157 on trade (or just buying it from me). Without going into details on the math, I would lose about $2200 to purchase a vehicle that is much more what I want (no etorque, no 20s, has nav, 33 gal tank, anti spin diff). This includes paying doc fee twice, title twice, etc. This would be a comparable deal as to if I just went with this dealer to begin with, since they were at $33,500 on my F150 trade. I could also with another truck that is about $2300 cheaper MSRP that is bench seat, no nav or anti-spin, not my ideal color, but does have the 33 gal tank.

3. Sell it and lease.

Another local used car dealer has offered me $42,000 to just buy it from me. It would be a somewhat expensive lesson learned, but not too bad. I would lease either a RAM (still waiting on numbers) or Chevy ($615 per month for 15k mile lease, $32,400 residual). I would pocket the difference of about $12,700 between the loan and the $42,000 (maybe a slightly less pocketed amount than under scenario 1, but I wouldn't have that equity under scenario 1 for two years).

Then in three years I could reevaluate my needs or the truck. I like the flexibility of either just turning in the keys on the lease and being done with it, or trading it in (if the market is nuts like right now), or buying it out. The only thing is I may be changing careers in the next 18 months so I'm not sure of my commute distance after that, so I would probably go for the 15k/yr lease.

I like the RAM better than the Chevy, but the Chevy does seem like a better build quality (which is expressed in the resale value of the two brands: also I see quite a few older Chevys on the road but not many RAM or Ford).


I am leaning toward the lease option. Not sure what I'm going to do yet, and a lot depends on the RAM lease price. But just looking for thoughts.
 
Messages
22,707
Location
CA
As I posted in your thread on the Ram forum, these trucks (and others) are not as perfect as you would expect....despite their price. The issue you are having with its driveabilty is not likely to be related to eTorque. The judder/rumble is from the MDS system. Even a non eTorque model will display the same characteristics. You can temporarily disable the MDS by using the -/+ buttons on the steering wheel at the start of every drive.
 

wallyuwl

Thread starter
Messages
2,039
Location
Wisconsin
I do expect a lot with how expensive these trucks are. But it is not the MDS, the non-etorque trucks don't do it when I drove them, and I have used the +/- buttons to disable MDS.
 
Messages
22,707
Location
CA
I do expect a lot with how expensive these trucks are. But it is not the MDS, the non-etorque trucks don't do it when I drove them, and I have used the +/- buttons to disable MDS.
To be honest, the quality is kind of a joke from what I have seen so far. I had a loose nut under the hood, tires that were way out of balance, etc but nothing that was truly serious. These trucks are way overpriced for what they are, but it is the nature of how this segment is.

The brakes on my eTorque equipped Ram feel very natural compared to my Prius. If there is any "regen" braking it is extremely minimal. Are you sure the surging is not the transmission's downshift behavior? Every new vehicle will learn your shift behaviors after awhile. Give it at least 500-1000 miles before making up your mind.
 
Messages
1,685
Location
Roanoke Virginia
I hear mixed things on the Rams. Might be best to hold onto it. If you were going to trade it in what I have seen people do is go test drive a used one and then drive the new one to feel how the new one will feel later on. If it was me I’d buy the used one just my preference as a mechanic. I also got a friend who has the new Chevy and he absolutely hates it and is planning on trading it on a Ford by the end of the month. If it were me I’d look at Ford I have heard so many better things about them than any other brand also Toyota is good as well.
 
Messages
43,763
Location
Ontario, Canada
Sounds like you bought a smoking deal, not the truck you really wanted. If the trade puts you back at market value, (forget paying $2200 more), I'd trade. Why drive and pay for an expensive truck you don't like? Just test drive the heck out of the new truck.

This. Go drive the ones you are considering, extensively, and then make the choice that makes you the happiest. I went down a similar road with a recent Audi e-tron purchase and lost some money, so I know the feeling.
 

wallyuwl

Thread starter
Messages
2,039
Location
Wisconsin
I hear mixed things on the Rams. Might be best to hold onto it. If you were going to trade it in what I have seen people do is go test drive a used one and then drive the new one to feel how the new one will feel later on. If it was me I’d buy the used one just my preference as a mechanic. I also got a friend who has the new Chevy and he absolutely hates it and is planning on trading it on a Ford by the end of the month. If it were me I’d look at Ford I have heard so many better things about them than any other brand also Toyota is good as well.
That is a good thought on driving a used one to see what they will feel like. I had a Ford but had a lot of problems. It also just seemed like build quality was lacking. The Chevy seems best for build quality, Ram second, Ford third. Maybe the 2021 Ford would be better? I just know the longer I want the more of a hit I'll take on the new one if I do decide to get rid of it. I would have bought a Toyota except the seat height is not very adjustable for the driver and not at all adjustable for the passenger and is very high, I'm looking out the top of the windshield.
 

Ws6

Messages
3,242
Location
South Central US
As I posted in your thread on the Ram forum, these trucks (and others) are not as perfect as you would expect....despite their price. The issue you are having with its driveabilty is not likely to be related to eTorque. The judder/rumble is from the MDS system. Even a non eTorque model will display the same characteristics. You can temporarily disable the MDS by using the -/+ buttons on the steering wheel at the start of every drive.
Did they somehow go backwards? My 2010 Jeep with MDS was flawless in regard to the MDS system. Only the dashlight indicated it was working, as well as a slight instant mpg readout bump.
 
Messages
22,707
Location
CA
Did they somehow go backwards? My 2010 Jeep with MDS was flawless in regard to the MDS system. Only the dashlight indicated it was working, as well as a slight instant mpg readout bump.
No idea, this is my first FCA product with MDS. There is a slight rumble/judder during deceleration if the system is active.
 
Messages
1,004
Location
Arizona
I think all makes can have inherent flaws so simply trading it off may just get you different set of bugs. I have a Chevy silverado that got a "chuggle" or "fishbite" issue which is TC Clutch issue. many have been addressed with updated fluid and firmwares. Go into the forums for the vehicle are there any fixes possible for the issue you're having?
 
Messages
3,668
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I would say that since you're already feeling this way at this stage of ownership, I would get out of it. Once you start noticing things you don't like, you'll find more. Also, if you like the Chevy then consider it but if it's "ok" then don't bother. May as well buy something you like especially at truck prices these days.
 
Messages
626
Location
MO
Check the tire pressures for sure. My truck was 10+ psi high when I drove it off the lot. Stopped at the first gas station and let air out.
 
Messages
1,685
Location
Roanoke Virginia
That is a good thought on driving a used one to see what they will feel like. I had a Ford but had a lot of problems. It also just seemed like build quality was lacking. The Chevy seems best for build quality, Ram second, Ford third. Maybe the 2021 Ford would be better? I just know the longer I want the more of a hit I'll take on the new one if I do decide to get rid of it. I would have bought a Toyota except the seat height is not very adjustable for the driver and not at all adjustable for the passenger and is very high, I'm looking out the top of the windshield.
I agree on the seat on the Toyota. It might not hurt to give the 2021 Ford a look. Or hold on to what you have for another year or so until you find something that is exactly right for you.
 

wallyuwl

Thread starter
Messages
2,039
Location
Wisconsin
I have never noticed the eco button active, even on the highway.

I drove around the city for a half hour this morning. I didn't notice the regen braking much. With the +/- it didn't do it that I noticed. It did do it, but not bad, without the +/- active. It isn't MDS, but there is something different when you activate the +/-.

Here are the two trucks I'm considering:
red one: https://www.eagleriverdodge.com/new/Ram/2020-Ram-1500-aaf278a20a0e0a171b89cf018fd6e663.htm
black one: https://www.wildedodge.com/inventory/new-2020-ram-1500-4x4-crew-cab-1c6srfjt8ln376700

The red one is almost identical MSRP to the current truck, about $100 more. The black one is about $2,200 cheaper.

I got some numbers from the RAM dealer. Right now I'm at $12,795 positive equity if I sell the truck to a local smaller dealer for $42k, then lease. I get that money in my pocket right away. Then I pay on the lease for three years, $19,188 ($533/mo) on the red one and $18,288 ($508/mo) on the black one with a 55% residual. I did the math, and I would be a fool to buy the truck at the end of the lease. But it could always be traded in if a strong market like currently (there are tax benefits in WI to trading, as well). So leasing would be a 3 year commitment to the truck and no longer.


To buy would be the following with the payment accounting for 1.99% for 60 months. Note my old F-150 payment was $650/mo:

I would be $18,432 ($512/mo) in payments over three years with the current truck. Using a 55% residual from MSRP (I decided that is the best figure, because that is what Ram uses on a lease), I would have $19,507 equity after three years (anticipated value $30,280, loan balance $10,773).
On the red truck linked above, I would pay $19,800 in payments ($550/mo) and have equity $18,763 (anticipated value $30,324, loan $11,561). Accounting for a small MSRP difference, this is a $$ difference of $2,032, which is basically how much I'd be in the hole after 3 years with that truck vs keeping my current truck. On the black truck I'd pay $18,504 ($514/mo), and have equity of $18,237. So, I'd be in the hole $3,546 after MSRP difference.

So, leasing is stupid if I'd keep the truck at least three years, as I'd be in the hole $5,968 on the red truck ($18,736 equity in three yeas vs $12,795 equity now on a cash out now) and about $5,442 on the black truck. Seems like the black truck is a bad deal now that I put numbers down to it (similar payment as current truck, but less MSRP and less equity).

So I guess it comes down to if $2,032, plus another $200 for wheel well liners, is worth it to get non-etorque, anti-spin, nav, 18s which should ride a little smoother, and the 33 gal tank. If I like the truck and don't have problems I would keep it more than three years. In the past I've kept vehicles until they were 14 years old (although I didn't get them until they were 6-8 years old - ah the good old days when I was poor but happy).

If I wait a year then maybe my truck will be worth $3-4k less but I'll have paid off about $6000. But it all depends if the market normalizes or not. These crazy used prices can't last forever, can they?
 
You have buyer's remorse and want out of it but are attempting to make financial decisions to minimize your losses based on unknown, assumed future values . Kinda how you got in this spot.

You like the RAM trucks. Go test drive the 2 you 've listed thoroughly and if satisfied buy the one you like using financing that makes sense to you today. Then enjoy the right truck and get on with it. Is being happy with the right truck worth $2000 spread over 3-4 years to you?

Or, buy a $12,795 truck with that equity if you sell it and have no payments!
 
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