I have a dilema.

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Hi this is my first post and its quite a read, but i'm trying to be specific lol. I have a 2006 Daihatsu/Toyota Terios with the K3-VE engine on it. It has 41633 miles on it, I'm currently using M1 15w50 on it, here is my question. I live in Venezuela where its VERY hot, my owners manual says that the 'standard recommended oil' is 10w30 from between temps of 40F to 60F. The maunal also has other oil grades for hotter temps, for temps between 60F and 80F they say to use 10w40 or 20w40 and for temps between 80f and 100F they say to use 20w50.

I want to know if I can stick with M1 15w50 or go to a thinner oil. I only use synthetic oils and the only grade for M1 that they sell is 15w50, they also sell Castrol Edge with syntec technology in lower viscosities. like 10w30 and 10w40 etc.

I'm worried that i'm probably using too thick of an oil for the miles the engine has. The owners manual does say to use that viscosity in these temps but could I run a thinner synthetic oil and because its synthetic it can maintain itself at that viscosity much better than a dino oil and not have to worry about it breaking down and losing its viscosity?

The outdoor temps here are around the 90's most of the time and I beat the [censored] out of my engine and ALWAYS have to redline it because it only has 83 HP, it also has to idle for long periods of time and has frequent short trips (although i never shut it off before it fully warms up.) I also go offroading with it and it also does alot of interstate driving aswell with fairly high revs due to lack of power it has. This engine also runs a little hotter than the avarage engine due to its design and is also sludge prone though I don't have any. The engine has no problems what so ever and i've been switching viscosities from time to time to see if I noticed differences but I have not. Although when I do turn it on in the morning the red oil light comes on for about 1 second along with the valves tapping loudly, this happenes when the engine is cold or I leave it turned off for about the time it takes for the oil at the top of the engine to go back into the pan. But after 1 second the engine runs beautifully and does not use any oil. My oil change intervals are at 7500 miles and the engine takes 3 quarts of oil, I don't care about fuel effecientcy at all.

What should I do? Stick with this M1 15w50 or get Castrol and go thinner? or any other recommendations? The only 'good' brands of oil that they have here are M1 and Castrol edge syntech, although the other brands here may be just as good or even better but I prefer these choices because they are better known.

Info on the K3-VE engine.

http://www.autotrade.com.my/v2/news/nb_details.asp?awreviewid=1414&catid=rt%2Eatc%2Ecar%2Epv

thanks for reading.
 
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If it recommends a 50 weight, I'd stick to it. Why not? It hasn't hurt anything so far and given the heat, the fact you bag on it, the fact its recommended anyhow, why break whats working? :p
 
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I'm guessing your car doesn't require a synthetic. Please correct me if I'm wrong. However, if that is true, then you probably have a great deal of flexibility in selecting a viscosity grade.

Mobil 1 15w-50 is a fine choice. It fits the manufacturer's recommendation for high temperatures, and its cold start performance likely still exceeds what is necessary.

If you want to go thinner, I'd say a synthetic xw-40 is a safe bet. Synthetics hold their viscosities better than conventionals in the hottest parts of your engine, so even though xw-40 is a grade low, I suspect it will be more than adequate if it's synthetic.

Hope that helps.
 
I just don't want any premature wear due to the thicker oil because even if it does recommend a 50 weight oil that is still much thicker than the 10w30 they filled in the factory, the numbers in the manual might only mean for dino oils with low resestance to heat. But I may be wrong.

Would I be doing any damage to the engine my running a too thick oil and would I be doing damage by running the recommended 10w30 Castol Edge syntech and extreame temperatures? Can the Castrol Edge maintain its viscocity well in extream temps?
 
Stick with what you have. From your description of it operating conditions, it seems you have found a product that seems to work good for you. If you have any kind of winter there, maybe go down one grade to 40w, but even then i think the 15w-50 would do you just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
The engine has no problems what so ever and i've been switching viscosities from time to time to see if I noticed differences but I have not. Although when I do turn it on in the morning the red oil light comes on for about 1 second along with the valves tapping loudly, this happenes when the engine is cold or I leave it turned off for about the time it takes for the oil at the top of the engine to go back into the pan.


I'd be worried about that. I'm thinking either your oil filter is too restrictive, or your oil is too thick; maybe both.
 
It also does that with 10w30 oil because i've tried it to see if there were any differences. However this engine is quite prone to sludge although by the looks under the valve cover I don't have any. My friend also has this car and he didn't take much care for it and the pickup tube got blocked with stuff that had the same concistancy as wood and that blew his engine. Now he tells me that I should check my pick up tube and clean if needed, which I will but I havent noticed any problems other than a very very slight increase in valve noise when the engine is cold that goes away as soon at it warms up and never returnes unless the engine gets stone cold again.(after the 1 second loud tapping.) Could this be due to a blocked pickup tube? I use the original denso Toyota oil filter and my last oil 3 oil changes have been with fully synthetic Castrol and now M1, before that it had been running castrol syntec blend because it used to belong to my grandfather before he passed away.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm thinking either your oil filter is too restrictive


I`m going with this^^. Unless you have a faulty guage/light.
 
Really? the original Toyota filter? The light goes away as soon as the the oil pressure builds up and the noise goes away compleatly. I should point out that the noise isin't defeningly loud, its just very noticeble.
 
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'm thinking either your oil filter is too restrictive


I`m going with this^^. Unless you have a faulty guage/light.


Why would you assume it's faulty? Of course the light will come on when he first cranks it. It could indeed be a restrictive filter, but I'd be surprised.

O/P - try another brand of filter, maybe an OEM if you haven't already. Also, before recommending a grade, it would be nice to know what oil pressure (and temperature) you are seeing under different conditions and what is specified.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Why would you assume it's faulty?


Because stock guages/dash lights are almost always faulty and/or very inaccurate.
 
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I have an OEM filter on right now and in the vid I posted which it about 4 days old. I'll try Wix next time. How can I check the oil pressure and exact temp? I don't have an oil pressure guage only idiot lights. Should I stick a thermometer in the radiator filler hole?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Why would you assume it's faulty?


Because stock guages/dash lights are almost always faulty and/or very inaccurate.


Since it is only flashing for a second or less, there's no real reason for concern, thus no reason to assume it's faulty.










Originally Posted By: N7Quarian
I have an OEM filter on right now and in the vid I posted which it about 4 days old. I'll try Wix next time. How can I check the oil pressure and exact temp? I don't have an oil pressure guage only idiot lights. Should I stick a thermometer in the radiator filler hole?



You can check your oil pressure by tee'ing in a mechanical gauge and recording cold start, hot idle and under way oil pressures. There is usually a spec for pressure at hot idle and also at a given RPM while hot. If you can meet those specs with a thinner grade oil, then there is little use to use thicker - unless your temps are borderline too hot.

To measure oil temp, you can do anything from measure the pan temp with an infrared temp gun to adding a sending unit and a gauge, though it would be more accurate to use a sending unit and gauge.
 
I'll see if I can do that but it will be hard to find the right tools lol. I might just take the oil's temp right after I drain it into the catch pan. How do I 'tee a mechanical guage?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Could be just the nature of that particular engine too.


+1

If the OP wants to stick with M1, try 0W-40 or 10w-30/40HM. Both have a 40c (close to start-up) viscosity not quite half of 15w-50m, yet also retain decent HTHS values. This may help the start-up rattling.
 
They only have M1 15w50 here, everything else that is thinner and a well known brand is castrol EDGE with Syntech tech. If M1 had thinner oils I'd use them instead of Castrol because of the whole deal with it 'not being a synthetic.' (I don't know if that's true anymore).

I've had great luck with M1 0w40 in my BMW.

(Pics when the valve cover was off.)

http://img232.imageshack.us/g/dsc02119o.jpg/

(But I digress.)

And I will use Castol if necesarry to lower my viscosity no right now I don't really have a brand preferance. So long as its fully synthetic.
 
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