The symptoms are as follow:
1. car makes a "plopping" sound, the faster you go, the more frequent these sounds: "plop plop plop" X1000 real fast (at high speeds)
2. at higher speeds, the steering wheel also vibrates
3. if u brake, the symptoms either subside or disappear
What is your answer? what do you think this is?
.
.
..
.
.
..
..
I'll give you the answer: loose lug nuts. I started using a torque-wrench and this is what I get. I was actually surprised how little torque it took to get it to spec which was 76ft-lbs. (For 2007 Corolla.) Now I realize that the wrench is probably out of calibration. I had the wrench in the closet for over 7 years never having used it. I decided to do things by the book after replacing rotors, calipers, pads in a complete overhaul.
I used to over tighten, and now it seems, I've been under tightening. To compensate, I have it set now to 95 just based on "feel."
I have a diagnostic challenge for y'all:
- Thread starter lizpat
- Start date
For what it is or is not worth , you can catch Harbor Freight click style torque wrenches on sale for astound $ 10 .
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=torque%20wrench
Maybe something in a tire?
Driving with loose lug nuts tends to wallow out the holes in the wheel, and then they will never stay on properly.
I use one of the cross type lug wrenches and tighten about as hard as I can, that won't be over tight unless your arms are exceptionally strong.
Last edited:
Phbbbbb. The right tool for tightening wheel lugs is the tool that came with the car. How you tighten is more important than spec. I use the star pattern in 3 stages . Snug, tighter, and stomp. Never lost a wheel, always was able to change without drama 
I tightened the lugs on one wheel of my RAV6 so much that I warped the rotor and had to spend a lot of money on a repair.
I am far from Don Knotts, but I'm not Lou Ferrigno, either.
It's easier to do than you might think.
Over tightening of the lugs can distort the rotor/hub assembly and lead to pulsations while driving and braking. Under tightening is probably more serious as you can damage the wheels and studs and possibly lose a wheel while driving. Use a calibrated torque wrench or torque stick and verify. Follow a star pattern tightening sequence using at least two steps. Store click style wrenches unloaded at zero pounds of torque or less. Follow the wheel manufacturer or owners manual for proper torque. Most of the alloy wheels I use require about 85 to 100 foot pounds.
If the car uses alloy wheels always retorque after 100 miles, do not back the nut off you check the to the torque spec. Many times you will find it loosened slightly even when do with an accurate torque wrench.
Once again spoiled by my old BMW. The tool is a crank with less than 6" of lever. Hub centric wheels. Final tight was done on the ground. A firm step. not a quick jump.
Back in the days of bias ply tires, tire changing was a lot more common. In my first 10 yrs of driving , I got lotsa practice
Back in the days of bias ply tires, tire changing was a lot more common. In my first 10 yrs of driving , I got lotsa practice
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Trav
If the car uses alloy wheels always retorque after 100 miles, do not back the nut off you check the to the torque spec. Many times you will find it loosened slightly even when do with an accurate torque wrench.
No need to guess really, if that's happening it's time to check the suspension/brakes/steering and you'd notice first thing that the lugs weren't tight, because you'd be taking the wheel off.
That is a significant clue. Unless you're using a long bar, if it takes (seemingly) little torque to get them on, it takes little torque for them to loosen themselves.
Quote
I was actually surprised how little torque it took to get it to spec which was 76ft-lbs.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2016
- Messages
- 1,229
Get some torque sticks and hammer away.
