I hate this site!

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Before I found this site I used whatever oil and filters that was on sale. I learned too much [Big Grin] I have a case of Valvoline that I'm afraid to use. I threw out all my Frams. I go to the motorcycle shop and when the guy tries to sell me Golden Spectro I decline since I have seen a uoa on the stuff. He brings out a Fram filter and I decline it too. Before I came here I would never think of using Pennzoil, Chevron/texaco or Qs oil. I now have Texaco/Chevron in my Jeep and truck. I have 4 cases in the garage of the stuff and a case of QS. Got Wix, purolater, Motorcraft and Wally worlds $1.97 filters in the garage. And today I found Amsoil at a bike dealer in town and had to get some to go next to the Mobil motorcycle oil. Thanks for all the helpfull info [Cheers!]
 
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I know how you feel. I was always comfortable using frams, I guess because I believed all the ad hype and they are so darn easy to find. I still think the black grippy stuff on the bottom of the filter is genious. I also used Castrol GTX, which it turns out is a pretty good oil and still my choice in a dino 5w20, but not the only good dino out there.
 
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I have a sheet of cheap grip tape that I apply to filters which I know that I will be replacing myself. It works even with an old filter if it is stuck on the car. Just clean the canister, put the tape on and apply moderate anti-clockwise pressure to decompress the O-ring, then with full strength, turn it off. Easy.
 

Chris142

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quote:
Originally posted by GROUCHO MARX: Wal-Mart would have given you store credit for those Frams.
Actully I used em for target practice. You should see the nice round hole a 12guage slug puts in one. [Big Grin]
 
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Chris142, Do not throw that oil away. Just pick up some Nautra 132 to add at each oil change! Us eit on the truck with Nuatra added it should work fine!!
 
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quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: Chris142, Do not throw that oil away. Just pick up some Nautra 132 to add at each oil change! Us eit on the truck with Nuatra added it should work fine!!
Do you mean EP 132?
 
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I know what you mean. I have more oil in my garage than I could use in over a year. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Penzoil, GC,etc . And about 8 oil filters too. Things were so much simpler before [Happy]
 

Patman

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quote:
Originally posted by PaJohn: I know what you mean. I have more oil in my garage than I could use in over a year. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Penzoil, GC,etc . And about 8 oil filters too. Things were so much simpler before [Happy]
Yep, same thing for me too. I used to buy my oil a week or two before oil change time, but no sooner. And I never had an oil shrine. Now I've got more oil than I know what to do with! [Smile]
 
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Chris142...
quote:
I learned too much ...
Knowledge is power... You can never know "too much", but you can certainly suffer information OVERLOAD!. My advice to you is as follows: - Don't become obsessed with UOA's; there is useful information within, like info about shear or thickening and TBN. Wear metal levels can be VERY difficult to interpret; the oil may not be the problem, it may be viscosity related, driver related or simply a characteristic of that particular engine. - Pay attention to the factual stuff, like understanding the "w" designation on oil, understanding viscosity and its relationship to temperature etc. - Realize that Frams and Valvoline are NOT! going to kill your car, only that you as a consumer MAY? be able to to buy products that give you a bigger bang for your buck, using some of the knowledge gained from this site... - Understand that "opinion" and "fact" are sometimes completely and absolutely unrelated, especially on the 'NET !!! [Big Grin] [Big Grin] [Wink]
 

Chris142

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I'm just a worrywart about my cars. My main worry is my old pickup. There is a little too much clearance on the #3 rod. Rebuilding the engine is not an option to me at this point in time so I gotta do what I can to bandaid it along. With Fram filters the thing would knock for 5-7 seconds after I started it. I felt that this knocking was doing damage. I always wondered why my truck would knock when started untill I found this site and switched filter brands. I also went to a SMALLER filter in hopes of eliminating dry starts. So far it seems to have worked. So since Valvoline oil does not have/has small amounts of certain additives that may help prevent wear I choose not to run it in my truck. My Jeep is still under warranty but 20w-50 oil is not on the list of recomended weights. Maybe keep the Valvoline incase I or a friend needed to do an emergency flush on one of our cars(Jeeps) that took a dip in a lake or something.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris142: I also went to a SMALLER filter in hopes of eliminating dry starts.
I would think the smaller filter might have less flow capacity. For example, Purolator lists the tiny filter for my wife's Aerostar at 3 gallons per minute (gpm), but the much larger filter for my pickup at 4 gpm, and the even larger filter for the F700 at 7 gpm. I moved up to the F700 truck's filter for my pickup. Working fine. I think as long as the antidrainback valve is good it should not not knock on startup. At oil change time, I prefill my filters to get quick oil pressure. Why do you want to run 20w50 in a new Jeep? A 10w30 should suffice. [ December 15, 2003, 12:37 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Chris142: I go to the motorcycle shop and when the guy tries to sell me Golden Spectro I decline since I have seen a uoa on the stuff. And today I found Amsoil at a bike dealer in town and had to get some to go next to the Mobil motorcycle oil. Thanks for all the helpfull info [Cheers!]
IMHO, I would run any of the Spectro oils in my bike before I ran Mobil1 motorcycle oil. The UOA you saw may have been from a bike that is very hard on oil (if I remember right, it sheared down and that was the only concern) - the Mobil1 may perform even worse. I try not to make a decision from one UOA. On the other hand, I haven't seen any Mobil1 motorcycle oil UOA's that impress me at all. The Amsoil seems to be a great oil regardless of the application.
 

Chris142

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quote:
Originally posted by TallPaul: [QUOTE]Originally posted by Chris142: [qb] Why do you want to run 20w50 in a new Jeep? A 10w30 should suffice.
I bought the 20w-50 Valvoline for the old truck a couple years ago. I run the recomended 10w-30 in the jeep since it's still under warranty.
 
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My owner's manual for my 87 Mitsubishi Pickup truck lists 10W-40 for temperatures down to -10F. It shows 10W/20W-50 for temperatures down to 32F. For Temps down to -20 it allows 5W-20. However, it cautions SAE 5W-20 Not recommended for sustained high speed vehicle operation. However, I am aware that a 5W-20 of today is far superior to the same weight at the time my vehicle was manufactured. I rarely see a temperature below 20F so I'm using 10W-40 now and will go to a 20W-50 for the summer.
 
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