I got 4.0L engine with 73K. What oil is good?

Messages
16
Location
ATL, GA
Hey guys, I have been lurking around this forum and found a lot of informative posts! Thanks. Question I have, I have a 98 Jeep Wrangler with 4.0L I6 with 73k on it. It takes 6qts of 10w-30. I have been using Castrol GTX and Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic blend. Now I think it is time for some upgrade, what should I use? and why(for learning purpose)? Thanks, Michael K.
 
Messages
1,381
Location
Southeast Kentucky
Castrol GTX is a good oil and there are so many good conventional oils today that sell for under $1.50/qt. including Havoline, Chevron Supreme and Motorcraft. There is really no need to upgrade to a more expensive oil to get good engine protecion for most driving conditions at 3 to 5K intervals. I would think you could use 10w30 all year in Atlanta.
 
Messages
43
Location
NY
I think maybe I'll start carrying the banner Jelly became famous for.. HDEO all the way! Pennzoil Longlife, Mobil Delvac 1300, Chevron Delo, whichever. Great oils at a great price, they'll keep your engine cleaner and the 4.0 will love the higher viscosity.
 

Michael_K

Thread starter
Messages
16
Location
ATL, GA
This is what I did. Please tell me if I did it right. I got Delvac 1300 15w-40(3qt), then Rotella-T 30wt(2qt), then Castrol GTX 10w-30(1qt) into my engine. Well, the throttle response feels a little slugish and the gas milege seems to have gone down a little. However, when I rev up high, the engine seem much more stable/smooth. Just wondering, what do you mean by 4.0 will "love" higher viscousity oils. What improves? Thanks, Michael K.
 
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13,132
Location
By Detroit
quote:
Originally posted by Michael_K: I got Delvac 1300 15w-40(3qt), then Rotella-T 30wt(2qt), then Castrol GTX 10w-30(1qt) into my engine.
That's some brew ya got there. I am going to guess that it blends into something like a 20w40.
 
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13,132
Location
By Detroit
quote:
Originally posted by Michael_K: Good or bad?
Sorry, totally missed the main point. Well, I don't know. I doubt it could really harm anything since you are not dealing with cold winter weather. I would not recommend a regular diet of this brew, but you probably were using some excess up. I am a proponent of mixing oils though and once had my wifes Aerostar on a mixture of Maxlife 10w30 Durablend 10w30 Citgo 10w40 Redline 10w40 Rislone Engine Treatment This in the winter. My future brews will be much more moderate. I am thinking some of the following: Maxlife 10w30 with Maxlife 10w40 to get a thicker 10w30 Maxlife with 1/2 to 1 qt of Redline for a home made "Start Up" (Castrol's new ester fortified oil). Also get a lot of Molybdenum (950 ppm) in the Redline. Durablend or Maxlife 10w40 with NAPA Synthetic 15w50 to get a thicker 10w40 in my F150. Maxlife 10w30 with a quart of NAPA Synthetic 10w30 for a boost in the synthetic blend factor. These last two because I stocked up on the NAPA synthetic on sale for $2.69 a quart. Also toying with Maxlife Engine Protector add and Synpower OIl Treatment add. Why, when I have excellent UOAs on straight Maxlife? Because it's there! Can't stand it, but gotta play. At this point I am way [Off Topic!] , so I better quit.
 
Messages
39,805
Location
Pottstown, PA
quote:
What improves?
Michael_K, Jeep engines are iron hogs. They shed the stuff like crazy. Many of us have noted substantial reduction in wear metals by using a xw-40 over a xw-30. This is somewhat more pronounced if you're into extended drain intervals (like me [Big Grin] ). If you're set on duing a 3m/3k OCI ..I don't think it matters too much one way or the other. I'm personally going to try and convert the whole fleet to Rotella T- synth 5w-40 just for the savings and having to stock one oil. Delvac 1 appears to be the Holy Grail so far by most yardsticks ..but is almost twice the cost of Rotella. Then I can just do a 6 month OCI on everything and be done with it (spring and fall). Now that I look over your post ..you didn't mention your OCI. What are you ....a prisoner of the 3m/3k lock up??? ..or are you one of the liberated ..the free ..the brave and valliant that step beyond the bounds and bonds of common humanity??? [Big Grin]
 
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1,779
Location
Central Iowa
Michael_k, I just did a Used Oil Analysis on my 2000 Wrangler with the 4.0 and a diet of M1 10w30. The one number that really stands out is the iron, which was somewhat high (but normal for the 4.0). However, if you look through the Used Oil Analysis forum and do a search on "Jeep 4.0" you'll see a lot of lower iron numbers on Jeeps that use a 5W40 or similar weight oil. I personally plan to try Amsoil next, to see if I can drop that iron number on mine. My wife also has a 96 Cherokee that I should have my first UOA numbers back later this week so I'll post them there too. In order to get a real handle on what works with your engine, look those UOA numbers over on the forum-it's interesting what others are doing.
 
Messages
9,461
Location
Not Seattle, but close.
quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
quote:
What improves?
Michael_K, Jeep engines are iron hogs. They shed the stuff like crazy. Many of us have noted substantial reduction in wear metals by using a xw-40 over a xw-30. This is somewhat more pronounced if you're into extended drain intervals (like me [Big Grin] ). If you're set on duing a 3m/3k OCI ..I don't think it matters too much one way or the other. I'm personally going to try and convert the whole fleet to Rotella T- synth 5w-40 just for the savings and having to stock one oil. Delvac 1 appears to be the Holy Grail so far by most yardsticks ..but is almost twice the cost of Rotella. Then I can just do a 6 month OCI on everything and be done with it (spring and fall). Now that I look over your post ..you didn't mention your OCI. What are you ....a prisoner of the 3m/3k lock up??? ..or are you one of the liberated ..the free ..the brave and valliant that step beyond the bounds and bonds of common humanity??? [Big Grin]

What about Chevron Delo 15W40? Is the 15 part going to make it too thick in cool weather? I can get it for about the same price as Rotella T, not that I actually use either, I'm a Chevron/Havoline/Castrol 10W30 guy so far, but was thinking of using a higher detergent oil for a little while, as a post ARx thing. I have discovered through that the Chevron/Havoline HM's have about 15% more Ca and Mg than the 'normal' versions.
 
Messages
507
Location
Tennessee
They use 15w40 Coastal oil in the 4.0 Jeeps at work. On a cold day (below freezing), they will barely start. On a real cold day, they won't start. This is in Memphis, TN.
 
Messages
13,132
Location
By Detroit
quote:
Originally posted by C4Dave: They use 15w40 Coastal oil in the 4.0 Jeeps at work. On a cold day (below freezing), they will barely start. On a real cold day, they won't start. This is in Memphis, TN.
Compare the cold properties of the Coastal and likely they are very poor, like maybe a -30 pour point at best (my guess). If you want to run 15w40 in milder winter areas, go with something like Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme, which has pretty good cold properties.
 
Messages
39,805
Location
Pottstown, PA
Mark C I imagine that 15-40 would be okay. If you don't experience cold starting problems ..fine.... The advantage of the synths is that you get all the advantages of the heavier oil ..but decent cold start capability. With either I imagine that you can do extended drains. I would probably go further with a syth. What's your OCI??? [ August 18, 2004, 01:28 PM: Message edited by: Gary Allan ]
 
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9,461
Location
Not Seattle, but close.
I must say I change everything at 3000 miles. I can get Delvac or Delo right now for $6.99 a gallon, in 15W40 weight. I'm just a bit squirrelly about changing from 10W30. I'm doing the first stage rinse of AutoRx right now, getting ready to load up for Step 2, trying to decide what to choose.
 
Messages
39,805
Location
Pottstown, PA
With a 3k/3m OCI I don't think it will matter that much one way or the other. You really can extend those drains a bit unless you're doing some type of severe duty. For 6.99 a gallon ...and given your 3k OCI ..I imagine that trying it wouldn't either break your bank or inconvenience you for too long if it didn't work out (which I think it would). How long does it take you to clock 3k??
 
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