I bought the gas-engined Highlander, not the hybrid

[dkryan]

I took delivery last Friday of a 2005 Highlander V-6 AWD, gas engined. The cost difference between it and the hybrid amounted to $8,300 with tax. Even after a $2,000 tax deduction (not credit) for the hybrid, I'd need 8 years and $2.40 a gallon gas prices to break even, all other variables being equal.

The owner's manual stated that 5W30 was recommended for all applications. It said that if 5W30 could not be found, 10W30 was suitable for use until the next oil change, at which point 5W30 should be used. OCIs are 5K, of course, with Toyota still feeling the sting of the reimbursements for the "sludge monsters."

The dealership service department uses Quaker State exclusively, which does not remotely excite me. Pennzoil or Mobil, yes, but not QS. The service manager said I would be wasting my money if I paid for QS Synthetic oil changes, only to change it out every 5K. I told him if I was putting synthetic oil in my crankcase, it wouldn't be QS.

I was thinking of an oil change with dino and an OEM filter at 2k, then switch to a synthetic at 5k with a Pure One. The warranty calls for 5k OCIs. While I do not want to change a synthetic that frequently, I do want the benefits derived from it, including faster lubrication at start-up in the winter and handling stop and go, A/C on, summer driving. Once that wonderful warrantly is gone at 36K, I'll go the the Mobil 1 oil filter and Mobil 1 5W30 EP, or whatever the current elixir is at that time.

Any differing opinions?

 

[Geoff]

Definately the wiser choice IMO - you did the math.

Quaker State used to be based on Pennsylvania crude oil (hence the name), which has a very high wax component. This caused it to form sludge easily. I don't think this is still the case (the base oil is from somewhere else), but I would be very sure to confirm. There are other good dino oils out there.

 

[kcryan]

sounds like a plan but i have one question, first what kind of syn oil will you use for the pre 36k OCI's
if i were you id wait till 10k before going to syn. mabye this is a nissan VQ thing but i know that with them you should wait until around 20k before going to syn because if you dont you will see elevated silicon levels.(i believe your the guy with the 01 I30 so you might know what im talking about)
Also after the 36k when you go to M1 i would have no problem using the M1 filter, actually i believe its the best filter you can get. But then again i wouldnt hesatite to use PureOne also. both are great filters and im not convinced the $5+ difference is worth it. However the day i see the non-EP M1 filters on sale in anticipation for the EP ones release i plan to load up on them

 

[dkryan]

Yeah, I've got the I30, as well. Did you think my sislicon levels were elevated? After 51K?

I agree on stocking up on the "current" Mobil 1 filters, if I can find them on sale. The only place I have seen them is AutoZone. That's why I went to a Pure One for the Infiniti on this oil change, preferring the new Mobil 1 filter that is not out yet, but not justifying the $5 difference.

I don't know what I'll put in at 5K (thought you think 10K would be better?) with the synthetic. I've always been partial to Mobil 1 and can buy my own oil and filter and have an independent mechanic that I've used for 21 years change it out for me. Right now, there's roughly a $1 difference (at AutoZone) between the Mobil 1 EP and the Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol GC 05.

 

[Pick]

I often wonder if folks factor in battery replacement, when considering a hybrid. I would think you would be better off with a plain ol' gas engine. You can buy a lot of gas for $8300, plus another $5000 in battery replacement.

 

[JHZR2]

its often the principle of it, not the savings.

Couldnt get by with the 4cyl vs the 6? After all, its not like its going to be used for hauling big loads... its only a camry under there, not a real truck.

If MPG and life cycle cost was really a concern, and you had to have an SUV, you wouldve gotten the 4 cyl version, IMO.

I dont believe v6 vs hybrid is the right comparisson.

You did right re; quaker state. Its not necessarily bad syn oil, its just not priced fairly. QS dino oil is surely not bad stuff, itd work fine for an everyday use car that gets replaced every so often. You need to consider how long you plan to keep it, and if its really worth the cost. If the dealer will do changes for $19.99 or so, it may be worth it to keep the QS if youre the type to replace a car every 3-5 years.

JMH

 

[kcryan]

quote:

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Originally posted by dkryan:
Yeah, I've got the I30, as well. Did you think my sislicon levels were elevated? After 51K?

I agree on stocking up on the "current" Mobil 1 filters, if I can find them on sale. The only place I have seen them is AutoZone. That's why I went to a Pure One for the Infiniti on this oil change, preferring the new Mobil 1 filter that is not out yet, but not justifying the $5 difference.

I don't know what I'll put in at 5K (thought you think 10K would be better?) with the synthetic. I've always been partial to Mobil 1 and can buy my own oil and filter and have an independent mechanic that I've used for 21 years change it out for me. Right now, there's roughly a $1 difference (at AutoZone) between the Mobil 1 EP and the Pennzoil Platinum and Castrol GC 05.

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not yours but i know people who have switched there VQ's after 3k to syn and they get hgih silicone for some reason. clearly after 51k your fine. but i would wait till around 10k+ before going to syn on the hihglander.
but i would still go with the 5k drains or mabye 7500 on the syn in the first 36k, dependent on driving condition.

 

[Bill in Utah]

quote:

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Once that wonderful warranty is gone at 36K,

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I think you'll find your Powertrain Warrenty is 5yr/60k miles!

It is on my 2005 Corolla.

The 3yr/36k is bumper to bumper.

If I was going to change the oil every 6mo/5k miles, a blend like Mobil 7500 or Castrol Syntec blend would be more than enough to protect the engine IMO... Both of those oils are 1/2 the cost of Mobil 1!!!

(and protect just fine)

I think the buying a "normal" Highlander was a smart idea. Last weekend we went for a trip down south with a friend in his Primus (sp) and found out two things...

1. UNDERPOWERED on the freeway.

2. MPG stunk since you have to spin the smaller engine to make it up the hills.

Now, I know that 7500 ft elev passes are not the normal in the USA but they are around here. The batterys did not do very much here. The passes are miles and miles long and you climb right away. Anyone who has been on I-15 from St George to Provo, Utah knows what I am talking about.

It is wierd to turn on the car and take off then you hear the engine start to run..

But if you have the A/C on (which we did since it was 100 degrees outside) the engine was running all the time. Even while at a light. I understand that with a/c or heat, the engine needs to run to provide power/heat for the outfit.

I don't know, I'll take a Corolla or Camary with a normal powertrain.

And my friends MPG suffers when it's colder too!

Batteries don't work as well when it's cold outside.

Enjoy the new rig!

Bill

PS: The cold flow on Pennzoil Dino 5w-30 is pretty impressive! I've used it and the UOAs came back perfect even in the cold weather!

 

[rjundi]

In terms of your oil plan you are on the right track, do what makes you feel good.

With regards to hybrid vs gas powered vehicle, in the short term ie keeping a vehicle maybe two or three years the hybrid is superior due to their huge resale. This will fall as demand is met or pump prices fall but this is coming slowly. Year or two old Prius's sell for near new prices due to demand.

 

[gudmund]

Penn's and QC are both the same company now-both are owned by Shell and for the most part located in Texas Both are under the name SOPUS if I remember right. Kind of like the difference between Chevron/Texaco - Exxon/Mobil etc.

 

[The Critic]

This QS report at 5K looks pretty good; I'm quite impressed:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002597

Warranty for the powertrain is 5-years/60K as Bill has stated.

Your plan sounds good, although I'd dump the factory fill at 1K, and change at 3K and 5K.

Michael

 

[AndyH]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
Last weekend we went for a trip down south with a friend in his Primus (sp) and found out two things...

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It's a Prius...Primus is a band:
http://www.primussucks.com

 

[dkryan]

kcryan:
I'm not sure what I'll use, but I'll likely change the oil at 1K, 3K and 5K, as Michael Wan suggested. My first choice will be Pennzoil and a Pure One filter. I may hold off on the switch to full synthetic until 8k or 10k. I switched the '01 I30 at 5K with no problems, my current lead reading aside.

Pick:
Not to get cocky, but I was less worried about replacing the battery pack than I was the TWO water pumps (electric driven and engine driven), as well as a host of other mechanical problems arising from a hybrid setup.

JHZR2:
The 4-banger could not get out of it's way, especially with AWD, and it revved noticeably higher. I normally keep my cars 8-10 years, minimum.

Bill in Utah:
You are correct on the powertrain warranty. The Highlander can run its A/C without the engine being on, thanks to power from the electric motor. Someone else did comment in another thread that unless you drove the vehicle 10 or more miles, the battery components did not warm up completely enough to become efficient. They noticed much improved mileage on trips over 10 miles.

 

[Steve S]

The more plumbing there is the easier it is to clog up the pipes.