Because HM motor oils tend to lack the GF-4 fuel economy designation, and the additives are needed by most vehicles as any SM, or even SL, rated oil will protect an engine...
I am a weak man...M1 HM
- Thread starter FastSUV
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Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well this is a 360 in this Jeep...only made it one year and I am the 2nd owner and bought it when it was 3 yrs old.
I assume it had dino and the OCM was set to 4k when I got it so dino from the dealer every 4k until I got her. Then M1 silver cap every 3-4k since. But would you really push the oil past 3k if it were not going to be driven much and maybe not even 3k per year? Wouldn't the 1 change per yr (either every fall or spring), be the best bet?
Oh yeah, you are converting that one to "less driven" status, right?
I guess my big question is, "will it get completely warmed up every time you drive it?" If so, then I see no problem pushing the OCI out, particularly if you go with a high TBN oil. The oil doesn't suffer any harm just sitting in the sump, what would hurt it in a rarely-driven car is if you do short trips and then leave it sitting with a lot of combustion by-products still in the oil, never having gotten the oil thoroughly heated for long enough to drive the water out and mix it up well enough to let the additives deplete any acids formed. My '69 Coronet saw 2000 miles over the last 2 years (and I vow to drive it more the next few years- in fact I drove it today), and I ran it those 2 years on one fill of RTS. But I did finally break down and change it last month, so I know what you mean!
Well this is a 360 in this Jeep...only made it one year and I am the 2nd owner and bought it when it was 3 yrs old.
I assume it had dino and the OCM was set to 4k when I got it so dino from the dealer every 4k until I got her. Then M1 silver cap every 3-4k since. But would you really push the oil past 3k if it were not going to be driven much and maybe not even 3k per year? Wouldn't the 1 change per yr (either every fall or spring), be the best bet?
Oh yeah, you are converting that one to "less driven" status, right?
I guess my big question is, "will it get completely warmed up every time you drive it?" If so, then I see no problem pushing the OCI out, particularly if you go with a high TBN oil. The oil doesn't suffer any harm just sitting in the sump, what would hurt it in a rarely-driven car is if you do short trips and then leave it sitting with a lot of combustion by-products still in the oil, never having gotten the oil thoroughly heated for long enough to drive the water out and mix it up well enough to let the additives deplete any acids formed. My '69 Coronet saw 2000 miles over the last 2 years (and I vow to drive it more the next few years- in fact I drove it today), and I ran it those 2 years on one fill of RTS. But I did finally break down and change it last month, so I know what you mean!
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Because HM motor oils tend to lack the GF-4 fuel economy designation, and the additives are needed by most vehicles as any SM, or even SL, rated oil will protect an engine...
Well when you have a non-daily driven 360 V8 Jeep with 178k and 31" tires, the last thing on your list to worry about is fuel economy
I am just wanting the motor to go 300k and my convictions were such that the switch to Maxlife was not acceptable anymore; the M1 HM was calling my name at Wal-mart. Once per year with that and I should be good to go 300k?
Because HM motor oils tend to lack the GF-4 fuel economy designation, and the additives are needed by most vehicles as any SM, or even SL, rated oil will protect an engine...
Well when you have a non-daily driven 360 V8 Jeep with 178k and 31" tires, the last thing on your list to worry about is fuel economy
I am just wanting the motor to go 300k and my convictions were such that the switch to Maxlife was not acceptable anymore; the M1 HM was calling my name at Wal-mart. Once per year with that and I should be good to go 300k?
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well this is a 360 in this Jeep...only made it one year and I am the 2nd owner and bought it when it was 3 yrs old.
I assume it had dino and the OCM was set to 4k when I got it so dino from the dealer every 4k until I got her. Then M1 silver cap every 3-4k since. But would you really push the oil past 3k if it were not going to be driven much and maybe not even 3k per year? Wouldn't the 1 change per yr (either every fall or spring), be the best bet?
Oh yeah, you are converting that one to "less driven" status, right?
I guess my big question is, "will it get completely warmed up every time you drive it?" If so, then I see no problem pushing the OCI out, particularly if you go with a high TBN oil. The oil doesn't suffer any harm just sitting in the sump, what would hurt it in a rarely-driven car is if you do short trips and then leave it sitting with a lot of combustion by-products still in the oil, never having gotten the oil thoroughly heated for long enough to drive the water out and mix it up well enough to let the additives deplete any acids formed. My '69 Coronet saw 2000 miles over the last 2 years (and I vow to drive it more the next few years- in fact I drove it today), and I ran it those 2 years on one fill of RTS. But I did finally break down and change it last month, so I know what you mean!
Yeah...it will not be a daily driver. I am guilty of some "short trips" such as starting it to move it out of the garage, etc. I know that is not good so many times I do let it sit & idle for while. But I still want to have the best oil in there to resist moisture & fuel contamination for those cold mornings if I had to start it and it could not get warmed up completlely to burn that stuff all off.
I assume the M1 HM would resist these acids & contaminants better and protect the internal engine components better from deterioration than a dino oil or a synblend like Maxlife.
Of course many people also say that dino "clings" tot he metals better and is better for a stored vehicle...in the Marine community, many people say that even manufacturers say that dino is a must for warranty purposes due to its ability to be better oil for winter storage.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well this is a 360 in this Jeep...only made it one year and I am the 2nd owner and bought it when it was 3 yrs old.
I assume it had dino and the OCM was set to 4k when I got it so dino from the dealer every 4k until I got her. Then M1 silver cap every 3-4k since. But would you really push the oil past 3k if it were not going to be driven much and maybe not even 3k per year? Wouldn't the 1 change per yr (either every fall or spring), be the best bet?
Oh yeah, you are converting that one to "less driven" status, right?
I guess my big question is, "will it get completely warmed up every time you drive it?" If so, then I see no problem pushing the OCI out, particularly if you go with a high TBN oil. The oil doesn't suffer any harm just sitting in the sump, what would hurt it in a rarely-driven car is if you do short trips and then leave it sitting with a lot of combustion by-products still in the oil, never having gotten the oil thoroughly heated for long enough to drive the water out and mix it up well enough to let the additives deplete any acids formed. My '69 Coronet saw 2000 miles over the last 2 years (and I vow to drive it more the next few years- in fact I drove it today), and I ran it those 2 years on one fill of RTS. But I did finally break down and change it last month, so I know what you mean!
Yeah...it will not be a daily driver. I am guilty of some "short trips" such as starting it to move it out of the garage, etc. I know that is not good so many times I do let it sit & idle for while. But I still want to have the best oil in there to resist moisture & fuel contamination for those cold mornings if I had to start it and it could not get warmed up completlely to burn that stuff all off.
I assume the M1 HM would resist these acids & contaminants better and protect the internal engine components better from deterioration than a dino oil or a synblend like Maxlife.
Of course many people also say that dino "clings" tot he metals better and is better for a stored vehicle...in the Marine community, many people say that even manufacturers say that dino is a must for warranty purposes due to its ability to be better oil for winter storage.
1. Idling does NO good. Does not "burn" off anything and adds everything like by products and water. The oil does not get warm enough to burn off the water.
2. Read above early and syn is no better than HM or Conventional in being the "best oil" to resist moisture. If you have a lot of water, the BEST thing is to warm the oil enough to burn it off. (read higher temps for longer times) If you can not then CHANGE the OIL more OFTEN.
So in your case, you would be better off using normal oil and CHANGING it more often and getting the water and by products OUT and replacing the additives with fresh oil.
Again, Syn has NO better protection than conventional / HM oil for water / by products due to combustion.
2. Read above early and syn is no better than HM or Conventional in being the "best oil" to resist moisture. If you have a lot of water, the BEST thing is to warm the oil enough to burn it off. (read higher temps for longer times) If you can not then CHANGE the OIL more OFTEN.
So in your case, you would be better off using normal oil and CHANGING it more often and getting the water and by products OUT and replacing the additives with fresh oil.
Again, Syn has NO better protection than conventional / HM oil for water / by products due to combustion.
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