Hyundai GDI 2.0T conventional oil limits

[Tarantula1]

Hello all,

First time writer, long time reader. I own a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport Turbo. Because of the di engine and turbo, I keep my oci at the Severe Service interval of 3k vs the Normal schedule, 5k miles. I also use conventional 5W-30 Quaker State Advanced Durability API SN/GF-5. QS is recommended by Hyundai. Oil filters used, Purolator L14459 and OEM. I drive 35 miles per day and the city/hwy split is 50%. Sunny S. Florida, normal driver (not overly aggressive but not a granny either). As others have shared, Hyundai does not recommend synthetic for this vehicle and the oil requirements are not very stringent, API SM/ILSAC GF-4. You cannot beat QS for $14/jug @ Walmart btw.

I will not use synthetic since it is not recommended in the owners manual. My question, without getting a UOA is, can i extend my oci to 4k miles since conventional oils have gotten so much better in recent decades or is 3k my limit based on the engine type plus the turbo?

 

[sciphi]

I've heard that Hyundai is pretty strict on warranty, so keep the oil changes at the 3k miles the manual recommends.

 

[Eddie]

I would do a 4K OCI and send a sample to Blackstone for a UOA. You might be surprised that 5K is quite doable. I would not do this tUOA until fully broken in at ~ 8K miles. Ed

 

[salv]

3500 is ideal. If you want to stretch to 5000, keep a close eye on oil level and condition. I see these every day. We use a semi-synthetic 5w30, but the turbo cars are guaranteed to be low on oil at 7000, near empty at 10000, and the oil is black as night at 2000.
The 2.0t is very hard on oil, and was not designed with "modern" oil change intervals in mind, otherwise Hyundai probably would have speced a European A3 oil. This motor will shear Mobil 1 0w40 to a light 30 weight in 7500 miles.

 

[shDK]

Ain't the Hyundai 2.0 GDi identical with the KIA. 2.0 GDI? KIA calls for both api and acea a5. ACEA A5 2010 is similar to the acea a3/b4 in performance. Only difference is a lover HTHS at max 2.9.

I think that would be my choise.

 

[chubbs1]

Just because syn isnt recommended does not mean you can't use it. It sure does not hurt to use a syn in this engine. Try QSUD. Of course if you are bang set on 3k OCI's just stick with conventional. I would use MS5K $13 a jug with a great results on BITOG>

 

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Just because syn isnt recommended does not mean you can't use it. It sure does not hurt to use a syn in this engine. Try QSUD.......

+1 Seeing as this a turbo and DI I'd be giving serious thought to using a syn like QSUD(SynPower, PP or M1 depending on price). I don't like the idea of using a synthetic for that short an interval (3k/5k), but considering the Turbo and DI factor I'd want the extra protection. Whether you run it for 3 or 5k miles would be determined by your driving profile over that period. Synthetic should easily handle 5k if you can fit it in the warranty oci time limit. (6months?)

In my personal experience with Hyundai warranty on a 3.8L, 6 months is the max time limit with 3750 severe or 7500 normal, but the severe driving profile list is fairly restrictive. I use dino for ~5k/6month oci, but I don't have turbo or DI. If I had turbo I'd have to consider a synthetic as my first choice.

As said though, synthetic not recommended doesn't mean using synthetic oil voids the warranty. As long as the synthetic meets Hyundai/owners manual specs for API SM/ILSAC GF-4 you stated, you're covered.

 

[Flareside302]

Is suggest synthetic as well due to the turbo and direct injection.. Pennzoil ultra woul be my pick due to really low NOACK number it pulls.. And cleaning agents to help with varnish etc due to heat..

 

[Bandito440]

Originally Posted By: Flareside302
Is suggest synthetic as well due to the turbo and direct injection.. Pennzoil ultra woul be my pick due to really low NOACK number it pulls.. And cleaning agents to help with varnish etc due to heat..


Yes. This. Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 and either the OEM filters or the gold PureONEs.

 

[Tarantula1]

Thanks guys,

Chubbs1, you're pretty much on-point. I want to stick to 3k mile oci and as such, conventional oil. MS5K was another choice along with VWB and PYB but opted for QS since it's in the owner's manual (for whatever that's worth, Lol) and i have used it on various applications in the past without issue. Purolator Classic L14459 would be used for the same reason, 3k mile oci.

 

[SF0059]

Don't feel limited to QS because of the manual. That is simply marketing. Hyundai gets paid for doing that. Any quality dino will do for your intended OCI.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: shDK
Ain't the Hyundai 2.0 GDi identical with the KIA. 2.0 GDI? KIA calls for both api and acea a5. ACEA A5 2010 is similar to the acea a3/b4 in performance. Only difference is a lover HTHS at max 2.9.

I'm pretty sure you're correct about the Hyundai calling for the ACEA A5 as well. Why they're confusing the issue with short OCIs and ACEA A5, I'll never know, though.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: shDK
Ain't the Hyundai 2.0 GDi identical with the KIA. 2.0 GDI? KIA calls for both api and acea a5. ACEA A5 2010 is similar to the acea a3/b4 in performance. Only difference is a lover HTHS at max 2.9.

I'm pretty sure you're correct about the Hyundai calling for the ACEA A5 as well. Why they're confusing the issue with short OCIs and ACEA A5, I'll never know, though.

Could it be something to do with their long warranty period? Lots can happen over 100k mile warranty period and long OCIs. At least 3k OCI ensure that whatever oil burning scenarios that do happen, will not deplete the sump out of oil.

 

[Tarantula1]

SF009 and Chubbs1 thanks...

After researching the UOA's, you guys are right about MS5K being an excellent product. I just bought two jugs from WM for a smidge cheaper than QSAD. Not limiting myself to the manual's oil brand recommendation anymore. $13 for the Mobil jug is a great value.

thanks again!

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Could it be something to do with their long warranty period? Lots can happen over 100k mile warranty period and long OCIs. At least 3k OCI ensure that whatever oil burning scenarios that do happen, will not deplete the sump out of oil.

Perhaps, but 3,000 or 3,750 miles on an A5 synthetic is pretty silly, or, at least, costly. As I discussed with wemay in one of his threads, that A5 thing bugs me. It makes sense if they want to really specify a synthetic (that goes beyond SN/GF-5). But, they're not exactly clear, and that OCI is a little short if they're really wanting you to use an A5. If they're actually just satisfied with conventional (which does seem to be the case; people simply cannot write manuals clearly), then that's a little easier to swallow.

 

[wemay]

Yup, very confusing. I own the same vehicle and am doing the same thing OCIwise but with the QS. Because of all the variables though, i was very torn between different OCI/Oil type/and brands. Lots of overthinking. Stay with the 3k mile oci and conventional IMHO. Go synthetic if you want to stretch it to 5k.

 

[Garak]

The carmakers are in a panic that we use the correct oil, so their response is to make self-contradictory or absurd recommendations.

 

[artificialist]

I never use anything less than full syn in any gasoline turbo engine, and that is because every time I see such an engine run on conventional or synblend, I always see heavy varnish.