Hyundai experience?

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Use whatever is on sale. The earlier motors with continuous valve timing spec'd 5w-30, and this one hasn't changed much.

I would recommend a 5 or 0 weight starting weight if she's going to college up north, as the starters and batteries aren't the strongest in cold weather.
 
Thanks. Yes this one has the CVVT engine and the manual says 5/20 or 5/30. She's in college in Austin so its plenty hot. Think I'll do the M1 5W30 thing.
 
Originally Posted By: SAJEFFC
Thought I'd throw out another question here. The owners manual says you can use 5W20 OR 5W30 OR 10W30 if the 5's are not available. I'm very happy about that but am wondering if the 5W20 might sqeeze out a little more power and mileage(its not exactly eaten up with horsepower!)
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Anyone else with this motor?

The oil cap on my Santa Fe has 5w20 on it but the technical manual calls for various different weights according to the operating temperatures outside. Anything from a 5w20 to a 20w50

I use a 5w30 year round because this fits my climate well. I find the 5w20 makes the 4-banger engines too noisy unless you go with a heavy 20wt that is more like a 30wt.
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Friends with the late model Hyundais are very satisfied. T-belt replacements I believe are up to 105k recommended now on the V-6's.

The only thing I'd check out would be insurance rates.
 
My insurance was cheaper on my new Santa Fe with collision, fire, theft, comprehensive and $1M in liability than it was on my '94 Tempo with just liability. (Don't know how, but it is)
 
Thank you sir. Yeah I was thinking I'd use 5W30 in it too. Hope I don't get flamed but it is darn hot down here right now. As far as insurance it was about $100/yr more than the Accord so no biggie really. I was suprised to see the 60k T-belt interval in the manual though. Guess I'll trade it off at 59999 miles!
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When I did my Timing Belt at 60K Miles (100K KM) it was like brand new. I have a 2.7L V6. Albeit the belt was coming up on 2 years old when I did it because I drive a lot of miles but it seriously has me thinking about pushing the next belt to 90K miles (150K KM) with a quick check of it at 60K miles (100K KM) looking through a hole in the cover where I can check tension and see both sides of the belt.

My dad and I have seen many 3.0 litre Chrysler (Mitsubishi) engines go 400K KM (240K Miles) before snapping a belt. (Similar engine design/belt size)
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
My dad and I have seen many 3.0 litre Chrysler (Mitsubishi) engines go 400K KM (240K Miles) before snapping a belt. (Similar engine design/belt size)


Here is an OE Mitsubishi MD111427 timing belt (supplied by Denso I beleive) for the Mitsubishi 12-valve 3.0 litre (6G72) found in many Chrysler applications. Pictures are not perfect, but this one's been in my truck for 105,000 km (66,000 miles) in harsh heat conditions:

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Mine looked the same without dust on it when I pulled it at 100K KM (60K miles)
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The one I put in was a Kia/Hyundai belt that was a spitting image of the 3.0 litre Mitsu belts in every way.

My engine is a 2.7L V6 with DOHC 24-valve, only one cam in each head is driven by the TB, the other two cams are chain driven inside the head by the other cam.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
When I did my Timing Belt at 60K Miles (100K KM) it was like brand new. I have a 2.7L V6. Albeit the belt was coming up on 2 years old when I did it because I drive a lot of miles but it seriously has me thinking about pushing the next belt to 90K miles (150K KM) with a quick check of it at 60K miles (100K KM) looking through a hole in the cover where I can check tension and see both sides of the belt.

My dad and I have seen many 3.0 litre Chrysler (Mitsubishi) engines go 400K KM (240K Miles) before snapping a belt. (Similar engine design/belt size)


And I knew someone with a Kia that it snapped at 73,000 miles!

John
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: SAJEFFC
You have chubby fingers.
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(just playin with ya man)
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Not his fault, he likes Italian food. It's my heritages fault! He is just guilty of liking good food!!!!

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Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
Before some reader is led to believe that Hyundai has taken a lead, please go drive the offerings from several manufacturers.

In the past 15 years:

- Honda quality has gone down significantly.
- Hyundai has improved overall.

That does not make them equal. Drive both, and other brands too. You might end up buying a Ford, if you can forgive what they did to you 15 years ago that made you ditch your last Ford for a Honda.

They have all evolved.

Just my opinion.


Did you have a look at the new Accords?? They look like something from Fisher-Price! I`m not impressed at all.They look very cheap now.
 
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I just bought a new Sonata Limited and I love it! Probably my favorite car I've ever had! Time will tell if that holds true. I have always been a huge honda guy but I love the build quality of the Hyundai. I crawled under it and everything is flawless. from the paint to the undercoating to the muffler. not a spec of rust or gobbs of undercoating. Every american car ive bought always has rust on it from the factory!

So Steve you would suggest a 5w30 over a 5w20? Ive heard 4 or five people say that so far so it must be true with the I4's. Would you suggest just a conventional 5w30? Do you know if it comes with 5w20 or 5w30 from the factory?
 
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also I've read about the ATF that hyundai uses and about how it dosent hold up very well. I think that the car shifts great with no detectible shift shock. If I change this trans to Amsoil ATF will it change the shifting? Do you think I should just change it out now for the heck of it or wait 20k?
 
Originally Posted By: ryland
also I've read about the ATF that hyundai uses and about how it dosent hold up very well. I think that the car shifts great with no detectible shift shock. If I change this trans to Amsoil ATF will it change the shifting? Do you think I should just change it out now for the heck of it or wait 20k?


I`m sure it will be even better with the Amsoil.Btw the Toyota fluid is no better.
 
Originally Posted By: John_K
Originally Posted By: StevieC
When I did my Timing Belt at 60K Miles (100K KM) it was like brand new. I have a 2.7L V6. Albeit the belt was coming up on 2 years old when I did it because I drive a lot of miles but it seriously has me thinking about pushing the next belt to 90K miles (150K KM) with a quick check of it at 60K miles (100K KM) looking through a hole in the cover where I can check tension and see both sides of the belt.

My dad and I have seen many 3.0 litre Chrysler (Mitsubishi) engines go 400K KM (240K Miles) before snapping a belt. (Similar engine design/belt size)


And I knew someone with a Kia that it snapped at 73,000 miles!

John


Do you know the age of that Kia that snapped at 73k miles? Reason I ask is I have an Elantra that's 4 1/2 yrs old, so by the manual needs a TB changeout. However, I only have 35k miles, so was thinking about waiting another yr or so, but could cause me warranty issues if something bad happened.
 
Originally Posted By: ryland
I just bought a new Sonata Limited and I love it! Probably my favorite car I've ever had! Time will tell if that holds true. I have always been a huge honda guy but I love the build quality of the Hyundai. I crawled under it and everything is flawless. from the paint to the undercoating to the muffler. not a spec of rust or gobbs of undercoating. Every american car ive bought always has rust on it from the factory!

So Steve you would suggest a 5w30 over a 5w20? Ive heard 4 or five people say that so far so it must be true with the I4's. Would you suggest just a conventional 5w30? Do you know if it comes with 5w20 or 5w30 from the factory?


I tried a few different 5w-20's in our 2007 I4 Sonata both Synthetic and Regular oil. I finally hit on Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 and the motor quieted down almost to the point of my V6 that has PP 5w-20 in it. 5w-20 appears to be the factory fill in Hyundai's. I also only use oem oil filters with 5k mile oci's.
 
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Originally Posted By: wymi516
Originally Posted By: ryland
I just bought a new Sonata Limited and I love it! Probably my favorite car I've ever had! Time will tell if that holds true. I have always been a huge honda guy but I love the build quality of the Hyundai. I crawled under it and everything is flawless. from the paint to the undercoating to the muffler. not a spec of rust or gobbs of undercoating. Every american car ive bought always has rust on it from the factory!

So Steve you would suggest a 5w30 over a 5w20? Ive heard 4 or five people say that so far so it must be true with the I4's. Would you suggest just a conventional 5w30? Do you know if it comes with 5w20 or 5w30 from the factory?


I tried a few different 5w-20's in our 2007 I4 Sonata both Synthetic and Regular oil. I finally hit on Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 and the motor quieted down almost to the point of my V6 that has PP 5w-20 in it. 5w-20 appears to be the factory fill in Hyundai's. I also only use oem oil filters with 5k mile oci's.


Thanks for the info! I also got the link you sent me, I looked around a little bit but these not a ton of people active it seems but I need to look at it more. So when should I change to synthetic? If I use dino is 5w30 still the way to go? I've got 650 miles on it now and they're adding up fast!
 
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