hyundai beta 2 failed leak down test

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Bought an engine from LKQ, a beta 2 from a 2010 hyundai elantra. I intend to put it in a 2007 kia spectra. So after picking it up, unloading it, i immediately did a leak down test. Cylinder #4 seems okay. cylinder 3, 2, 1 though are highly questionable. So to keep it simple, just testing cylinder 1 at TDC, all my marks look good, and I'm getting 25-30% leakage, and noticeable air coming out of the exhaust. I can feel it blowing with my hand. My real question is, before I call and sound like an idiot making a warranty claim, there should not be any nonsense with the variable valve timing messing up a leak down test is there?
 
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I don't see that you can be faulted with what you did and found-good luck with dealing with them in getting a good one.
 
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Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Bought an engine from LKQ, a beta 2 from a 2010 hyundai elantra. I intend to put it in a 2007 kia spectra. So after picking it up, unloading it, i immediately did a leak down test. Cylinder #4 seems okay. cylinder 3, 2, 1 though are highly questionable. So to keep it simple, just testing cylinder 1 at TDC, all my marks look good, and I'm getting 25-30% leakage, and noticeable air coming out of the exhaust. I can feel it blowing with my hand. My real question is, before I call and sound like an idiot making a warranty claim, there should not be any nonsense with the variable valve timing messing up a leak down test is there?
My Accord will puff out lots of air from the fill hole, but it doesn't burn a drop of oil...not convinced thats an accurate test.
 

CT8

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Sorry to sound simple but did you rotate the engine so the valves are closed on each cyl?
 

cptbarkey

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Originally Posted By: CT8
Sorry to sound simple but did you rotate the engine so the valves are closed on each cyl?
yes, tdc on the crank pulley, tdc lined up on the camshaft pulley too. timing belt working okay. tried rotating it a few times and tested it over and over, the otc tool shows 90% on left gauge, 50% on the right (not good), and it eventually pewters out of air with a direct connection within a few minutes. fairly certain my air compressor and tool are solid tight.
 
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Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Originally Posted By: CT8
Sorry to sound simple but did you rotate the engine so the valves are closed on each cyl?
yes, tdc on the crank pulley, tdc lined up on the camshaft pulley too. timing belt working okay. tried rotating it a few times and tested it over and over, the otc tool shows 90% on left gauge, 50% on the right (not good), and it eventually pewters out of air with a direct connection within a few minutes. fairly certain my air compressor and tool are solid tight.
You're not doing the test right. Each cylinder needs to be at the TDC that is between the compression stroke and the power stroke. For each cylinder, that happens once per two revolutions of the crank, so only one of the TDCs of the crank will work for cylinders 1 or 4. For cylinders 2 or 3, you need to be at the crank BDC since they're opposite in phase to cylinder 1. I usually just take the valve covers off and look at cams to tell where a cylinder is wrt phase since I've got a bunch of sixes, and they're not as simple as fours.
 

cptbarkey

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thanks everyone. i think i'm going to risk putting it in. at least at that point i can do a compression test and whatnot for real results. it may be a month or so because i only do this as a hobby. appreciate it.
 
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It's fine to do a leak-down on a cold engine, I do it on every used engine I install before I install it. Lining the timing marks up will put you on TDC of cyl #1 or cyl #4 (depending on what 4 cyl. engine in question) With #4 leak-down showing good with the timing marks aligned...Leads me to believe #4 is at TDC (piston up on the intake stroke) That would mean #1 is at BDC (piston up on the exhaust stroke)...That would explain leakage from the exhaust valves on #1. Starting at Cylinder #4, Timing marks aligned, Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Turn the Crank 180 degrees, The Crank sprocket mark will be 180 degrees from the timing mark, The Cam sprocket will be 90 degrees from it's timing mark.....Now perform a leak-down on #2. Turn the Crank 180 degrees. Perform leak-down on #1. Turn the Crank 180 degrees, Perform leak-down on #3.
 

cptbarkey

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thanks. i am certain i tested cylinder #1 correctly. I have done leak down tests on a honda engine and a couple subaru engines and never had this kind of situation before. I am gambling that this type of engine does not respond well to a cold leak down test.
 
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Not just cold, but dry. That motor probably sat for a while and the micro film of oil is likely diminished. I bet you'll be fine with it- the beta motors are pretty tough. Also- that it came from LKQ, it should have a warranty... I've seen a GM 3.8 that had upper intake manifold and lower gasket issues sit a for many months come into the shop with low double digit compression numbers- and one or two at zero, be revived with a bunch of oil in the cylinders. After repairing, the engine fired up, ran a little rough, then start to purr like a 3.8 does. Car is still on the road.
 

cptbarkey

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followup: engine fired right up with no issues. Cold leak down tests are definitely inaccurate. Perhaps it is the funky CVVT stuff, but I wont condemn anything that quickly again. thanks for everyones feedback.
 
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