husqvarna saw engine

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Never not been able to get a saw working before but this is stumping me. Husqvarna 246 and it just wont start. Good spark (old plug though), carb looks clean and fuel flows. Tried tweaking the H/L/T screws and it ran for a bit but after shutdown it would t restart. Need to check the kill switch still but.otherwise I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
 
Make sure you have spark after it runs a bit. Some times a coil will fire when cold,but not after a running a bit.

Not to insult you but is the fuel fresh? Also the fuel filter in the tank can be plugged enough not to allow the saw to run, but might let fuel in the carb enough to look wet.
 
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Fuel age was my first though as it was very old- that was addressed. Wont start while coldagain either- any way.to confirm coil condition?
 
Pour a little bit of fuel into the spark plug hole, put the plug back in and see if it will fire. If it fires up, you know it's a fuel issue. Diaphragm carbs can be finicky.
 
Also check impulse hose (if this model has one) and fuel hoses .

@
2 cycle engines are a whole different beast than a 4 stroke and many things are overlooked .
 
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summarize
- Spark when hot? ignition module may be shot.
- Leaking crank case/old shot axle seals?
- Dirty carb/bad diaphragm/plugged filter in tank/bad fuel
- Correct settings? All screws 1 full turn (I think) out from shut?
- Bad plug, not 0.5mm gap?
 
I know it won't help you any, but I owned a "possessed" Honda 350 motorcycle years ago.

I wanted to ride one day. Bike would not start. Spark, gas, compression, etc. Did all the normal stuff, changed plugs 44 times, cleaned the carb 8 times, checked for spark 127 times. Poured gas in the cylinder, triple checked the key, kill switch and kickstand switch, used starting fluid etc.

I was so annoyed that it would not start, I pulled the bike behind a car with a rope to try to jump start it at speeds up to 20MPH. No joy.

Man was I angry.

The next day, It fired right up, ran normally and so on.
 
FWIW I ended up digging on a copy of the operators manual on some random website. Not sure if this applies to all Husqvarna saws but just in case somebody ever searches I'll quote the carb adjustment section below.

Originally Posted By: "Owners Manual for 246 and other saws"
Carburettor
Functioning, Basic setting, Final setting
WARNING! Do not start the saw without the
bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake)
assembled. If you do, the clutch might come
loose and cause severe injuries.
Operation
• The carburettor governs the engine speed via the throttle. Air/
fuel are mixed in the carburettor. The air/fuel mixture is
adjustable. To take advantage of the saw’s maximum output
the setting must be correct.
• The satisfactory operation of a catalytic converter
depends, among other factors, on the correct adjustment
of the carburettor. Follow carefully the instructions
below, using a tachometer to check engine speed.
• Adjusting the carburettor means the engine is adapted to
local operating conditions, e.g. climate, altitude, petrol and
the type of 2-stroke oil used.
• The carburettor has three
adjustment possibilities:
L = Low speed jet.
H = High speed jet.
T = Adjustment screw for
idling.
• The fuel quantity required in relation to the air flow, provided
by opening the throttle, is adjusted by the L and H-jets. If they
are screwed clockwise the air/fuel ratio becomes leaner (less
fuel) and if they are turned anti-clockwise the ratio becomes
richer (more fuel). A leaner mixture gives a higher engine
speed and a richer mixture give a lower engine speed.
• The T screw regulates the idling speed. If the screw T is
turned clockwise this gives a higher idling speed; anticlockwise
a lower idling speed.
WARNING! The catalytic converter muffler
gets very hot during and after use. This also
applies during idling. Be aware of the fire
hazard, especially when handling the saw near
flammable substances or vapours.
Basic setting and running in
The carburettor is adjusted to a basic setting when the saw is
tested at the factory.
42: The basic setting is: H = 1 turn respective L = 1
turn.
242XP: The basic setting is: H = 1 turn respective L = 1
turn.
246: The basic setting is: H = 1 turn respective L =1
turn.
To provide the engine’s components with a good level of
lubrication (running in) the carburettor should be set for a
richer fuel mixture for the first 3-4 hours of operating. To
obtain this adjust the overspeed 6-700 rpm under the
recommended max. overspeed.
If you do not have the possibility to check the overspeed using a
tachometer the H-jet should not be set for a leaner mixture than
that stated for the basic setting.The recommended overspeed
should not be exceeded.
NOTE! If the chain rotates while idling the T screw should be
adjusted anti-clockwise until it stops.
Fine adjustment
• When the saw has been ”run-in” the carburettor should be
finely adjusted. The fine adjustment should be carried out
by qualified person. First adjust the L-jet, then the idling
screw T and then the H-jet.
The following engine speed applies:
Max. overspeed Idling speed
42: 14.500 rpm 2.700 rpm
242XP: 15.500 rpm 2.700 rpm
246: 15.000 rpm 2.700 rpm
Conditions
• Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be
clean and the cylinder cowling fitted. Adjusting the carburettor
while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a leaner mixture
when the filter is finally cleaned. This can give rise to serious
engine damage.
• Carefully turn the L and H-jets clockwise to the bottom. Now
turn the jets one turn anti-clockwise. The carburettor is now
set to H = 1 and L = 1.
• Now start the saw according to the starting instructions and
run it warm for 10 minutes.
NOTE! If the chain rotates the T screw should be turned
anti-clockwise until the chain stops.
• Place the saw on a flat surface so that the bar points away
from you and so that the bar and chain do not come into
contact with the surface or other objects.
Low speed needle L
Try to find the highest idling
speed, turning the low speed
needle L clockwise
respectively counterclockwise.
When the highest
speed has been found, turn
the low speed needle L 1/4
turn counter-clockwise.
NOTE! If the chain rotates in
the idling position, turn the idling speed screw counterclockwise
until the chain stops.
Final setting of the idling speed T
Adjust the idling speed with the screw T. If it is necessary to readjust,
first turn the idle speed adjusting screw T clockwise, until
the chain starts to rotate. Then turn, counter-clockwise until the
chain stops. A correctly adjusted idle speed setting occurs when
the engine runs smoothly in every position. It should also be
good margin to the rpm when the chain starts to rotate.
Contact your servicing dealer, if the idle speed
setting cannot be adjusted so that the chain
stops. Do not use the saw until it has been
properly adjusted or repaired.
High speed needle H
The high speed needle H
influences the power of the
saw. A too lean adjusted high
speed needle H (high speed
needle H closed too much)
gives overrevs and damages
the engine. Let the saw run at
full speed for about 10
seconds. Thereafter, turn the
high speed needle H 1/4 turn
counter-clockwise.
Let the saw run again at full
speed for about 10 seconds and note the difference of the
enginesound. Repeat this procedure with the high speed needle
H turned 1/4 turn more counter-clockwise. The saw has now
been tested with the following settings: H=±0, H=+1/4, H=+1/2
from basic adjustment. At full speed the engine has produced a
different sound for each setting. The high speed needle H is
correctly set when the saw ”4-cycles” a little. If the saw ”whistles”
the setting is too lean. If there is too much exhaust gas at
the same time as the saw ”4-cycles” much, the setting is too
rich. Turn the high speed needle H until the setting sounds
correct. NOTE! For optimum setting of the carburettor,
contact a qualified servicing dealer who has a revolution
counter at his disposal. The maximum speed
recommended must not be exceeded.
Correctly adjusted carburettor
A correctly adjusted carburettor means that the saw accelerates
without hesitation and the saw 4-cycles a little at max speed.
Furthermore, the chain must not rotate at idling. A too lean
adjusted low speed needle L may cause starting difficulties and
bad acceleration. A too lean adjusted high speed needle H
gives lower power=less capacity, bad acceleration and/or
damage to the engine. A too rich adjustment of the two speed
needles
 
Originally Posted By: buck91
Fuel age was my first thought as it was very old


Can't believe there was no mention of a dirty carb. I think you need to take it apart and clean it.
 
I agree on replacing the plug, even if it looks good visually.

No one has mentioned to also check that the muffler is not clogged. Sometimes they carbon up internally and don't allow proper flow,messing up the entire combustion process.

I once found a carb that came loose, allowing air to leak in.

So many possibilities!
 
Spark plug is the easiest thing to try first. If you have consistant spark, then the carb would be the next thing to check. You can also loosen the fuel cap and see if that helps. If the fuel cap is not venting properly, then the engine will not run properly. Also check all fuel lines and fuel filter. You can try taking the air filter off, spray a little carb cleaner into the throat of the carb and see if it fires. If it does, then you have a carb issue. Being you said the fuel was very old, I would suggest a carb cleaning and a carb kit. There can be some gummed up fuel in the tiny passages of the carb. The metering diaphragm also needs to be pliable in order for it to run properly. Sometime a new carb is easier than working on the problem one, depending on price. You Tube has good videos on cleaning these carbs. Also make sure carb gaskets are on properly and carb is not loose. Remove muffler, check exhaust ports/muffler/spark arrestor (if equipped) for blockage.
 
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So here is what I did.
-new spark plug
-cleaned fuel pickup filter
-cleaned air filter
-cleaned air inlet screen
-cleaned muffler spark arrestor
-r&r and cleaned the flywheel and magnets
-cleaned exhaust port
-r&r and cleaned oil pump assembly (had some leakage)
-r&r and cleaned bar and chain (was off anyways)
-roughly cleaned entire saw (why not)
-adjusted carb to default settings (as described above)
-cleaned fuel tank chamber and added new fuel at roughly 40:1 ratio

And what would you know, the dang thing started right up! Cuts with plenty of power but feels like the chain needs a little touch up and the rakers are probably a bit long...
 
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