How to pick a motor oil....

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If you look at the VOA's you can pick the good from the bad but in the same respect, you have a lot of oils out there, that just by looking at the VOA'S it appears that they don't appear to have a strong oil additive package.. Quaker State synthetic for example, appears to have a stronger additive package then Mobil 1 am I saying that's true no.. What I'm asking is how do you know what sort of base oil they're using?

Thank you...
 
I would go by what test or requirements or specification they pass +
Euro is a plus +
I like moly +
Low Noack +
I like high(er) hths oil (no thin oil) +
high flash point +
Low pour point +
Low vii (vm) meaning narrow(er) spread oil +
I read some uoa, voa, etc. +
What owner's manual say +
My engine fussiness or lack thereof +
My intended OCI +
My intended OCI +
PRICE +
PRICE +
PRICE :)


Not all of the above is possible all at the same time but that's a start for me.
 
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I would go by what test or requirements or specification they pass +
Euro is a plus +
I like moly +
Low Noack +
I like high(er) hths oil +
high flash point +
Low pour point +
Low vii(vm) meaning narrow(er) spread oil +
I read some uoa, voa, etc. +
What owner's manual say +
PRICE +
PRICE +
PRICE :)


Not all of the above is possible all at the same time but that's a start for me.
HTHS isn't always shared..
What oil did you find in this category?
 
Amsoil. All you need to know. Viscosity @ 100C, Viscosity @ 40C, Flash point, Fire point, Pour point, NOACK, HTHS, TBN....Amsoil does not hide their specifications. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf
 
Does it meet the specs that our manufacturer calls for and what does it cost? That's the only two criteria that ultimately matter.
I understand that, but no two oils are really the same. The base oil is going to be different on a higher quality oil.. and so will the additives. That in return will keep the engine clean..
 
Amsoil. All you need to know. Viscosity @ 100C, Viscosity @ 40C, Flash point, Fire point, Pour point, NOACK, HTHS, TBN....Amsoil does not hide their specifications. chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf
Whether or not that is so I don't know, but their price structure makes it palpable mainly just for the fanboys.
 
If you look at the VOA's you can pick the good from the bad but in the same respect, you have a lot of oils out there, that just by looking at the VOA'S it appears that they don't appear to have a strong oil additive package.. Quaker State synthetic for example, appears to have a stronger additive package then Mobil 1 am I saying that's true no.. What I'm asking is how do you know what sort of base oil they're using?

Thank you...

Mobil 1 ESP or 1 of the oils from HPL
 
Does it meet the specs that our manufacturer calls for and what does it cost? That's the only two criteria that ultimately matter.
I understand that, but no two oils are really the same. The base oil is going to be different on a higher quality oil.. and so will the additives. That in return will keep the engine clean
No you can't
What made you start Castrol Edge high mileage?
 
I understand that, but no two oils are really the same. The base oil is going to be different on a higher quality oil.. and so will the additives. That in return will keep the engine clean..


You keep repeating this in multiple threads and the same answer is given to you every time. Go by the certifications and licenses on the jug instead of trying to figure out the composition of the base oil which is impossible with a consumer VOA.
 
You keep repeating this in multiple threads and the same answer is given to you every time. Go by the certifications and licenses on the jug instead of trying to figure out the composition of the base oil which is impossible with a consumer VOA.
I've already done that.. I'm running the oil.. but what I'm trying to do is, I know there is a better oil out there, and I'm trying to figure out how to find out what that better oil is. All the oils, on the shelves for the most part, is going to have, GF-6A SP Rating.. and as long as it has the licenses for my particular vehicle I know I'm good to go.. I was just looking for a better oil.. and I was trying to figure out how to find that?
 
I've already done that.. I'm running the oil.. but what I'm trying to do is, I know there is a better oil out there, and I'm trying to figure out how to find out what that better oil is. All the oils, on the shelves for the most part, is going to have, GF-6A SP Rating.. and as long as it has the licenses for my particular vehicle I know I'm good to go.. I was just looking for a better oil.. and I was trying to figure out how to find that?
What's your definition of "best/better"?

For wear protection based on the viscosity factor, the one(s) with the least VIIs so the HTFS (High Temp Full Shear) is higher (ie, the viscosity when sheared at 150C and above the standard 1M/sec shear rate that HTHS is measured at). Of course this comparison needs to be for oils in the same viscosiy grade, since grade has an effect on those properties.

Then you have the film strength factor (the AF/AW additives), which are beyond the viscosity minimum film thickness (HTHS/HTFS) factor and come into play in boundry and mixed lubrication when moving parts are actually contacting their surfaces. For the film strength factor, guess all you can do is look at the AF/AW additives in the VOA, like molybdenum, etc.
 
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