How to pick a motor oil....

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Scott S

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Some oils do stand out such as Amsoil Signature 5W-20 at 5.8%. Then there's the other end of the spectrum with oils like Lucas 5W-20 at 12.4%

Okay thank you I appreciate the explanation.. but what makes these oils vary so much?
 
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Some oils do stand out such as Amsoil Signature 5W-20 at 5.8%. Then there's the other end of the spectrum with oils like Lucas 5W-20 at 12.4%

Okay thank you I appreciate the explanation.. but what makes these oils vary so much?
I think that was already answered by @RDY4WAR on the previous page:
It will vary from one batch to another, no matter how controlled the blending is, simply due to variation in base oil batches, additive batches, etc... Then variation in blending equipment accuracy. It's nearly impossible to blend every batch exactly the same which is why you'll see that disclaimer on a PDS/TDS that says "Values are typical and may vary."
I think this has a lot to do with some of the variation we see in VOAs. Things like viscosity or Phosphorus levels not matching the PDS.
 
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Some oils do stand out such as Amsoil Signature 5W-20 at 5.8%. Then there's the other end of the spectrum with oils like Lucas 5W-20 at 12.4%

Okay thank you I appreciate the explanation.. but what makes these oils very so much?

The quality of the base oils, and the use of higher initial viscosity base oils, is what makes them so remarkably different. The Amsoil oil likely contains high amounts of 6 - 8 cSt group IV PAO synthetic base oils, paired with esters and/or naphthalenes, with very little viscosity index improver. The Lucas oil likely contains a high amount of 4 cSt mineral oil plus a lot more viscosity index improver (polymers / liquid rubbers) to boost the viscosity up at operating temperature. The result is an oil that's more volatile (higher Noack) and less shear stable.
 

Scott S

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The quality of the base oils, and the use of higher initial viscosity base oils, is what makes them so remarkably different. The Amsoil oil likely contains high amounts of 6 - 8 cSt group IV PAO synthetic base oils, paired with esters and/or naphthalenes, with very little viscosity index improver. The Lucas oil likely contains a high amount of 4 cSt mineral oil plus a lot more viscosity index improver (polymers / liquid rubbers) to boost the viscosity up at operating temperature. The result is an oil that's more volatile (higher Noack) and less shear stable.
Ok thanks. So with the name brands versus store brand you're getting a better base oil. Some times?
 

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For example. supertech is pretty good from lurking around here. What I understand, Highland/Warren gets they're base stocks from Exxon Mobil
 
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For example. supertech is pretty good from lurking around here. What I understand, Highland/Warren gets they're base stocks from Exxon Mobil


Maybe they do. Maybe not. Who really knows?
Fixation on numbers never works out and ends up being a circular discussion. As a previous poster mentioned, it is splitting hairs, and that member is a expert in the field.
 

Scott S

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Tom NJ
That's a Heavy statement. But what do I know 😂😂.
May I ask , What oil do you recommend or use personally?

Thank you
 
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another thing to consider, it's kind of weird but some engines do better with certain brand of oil given similar api, cert, Noack, etc. +/- a little obviously ...

There are many other engine (age, design, etc.) and oil related variables and their interactions that's hard to quantify and no one cares or have time to research or document except your own experience!

I try to stick with a oil that has "worked" fine with my given engine but then there are sales, rebates, cute jugs, trying something new cuz bitogers like or recomend, etc. :)
 

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another thing to consider, it's kind of weird but some engines do better with certain brand of oil given similar api, cert, Noack, etc. +/- a little obviously ...

There are many other engine (age, design, etc.) and oil related variables and their interactions that's hard to quantify and no one cares or have time to research or document except your own experience!

I try to stick with a oil that has "worked" fine with my given engine but then there are sales, rebates, cute jugs, trying something new cuz bitogers like or recomend, etc. :)
With everything, to consider on an oil.. there's a lot of things to take in..
Some people recommend brands..
Some people say go with whatever is
API certified, for my vehicle.
My problem going with, let's say Supertech or Kirkland today it may be a fine oil tomorrow it may not be.. because they may go with a different distributor.. that's why I prefer to go with a name brand.. not because I have money to waste.. I'm disabled I live on social security.. I just prefer to go with a tried and true oil.. and obviously there is no guarantee.. my vehicle is going to like it. Some people say, stop using 5w20 and go to 5W30.. I take in so much information I don't know which way to go...
 

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I would make a nice lunch and enjoy!
Yes that's fine, but if you can't believe what the oil manufacturers are posting. You might as well buy a quart of oil, and start doing your own oil analysis, unless it's already been done by somebody here, and then you're only part of the way there.. then you still need to figure out, go to 5W30 or 5W20. Because obviously that was all for Cafe reasons. Then you need to figure out which oil to start with. This vehicle has always ran on Motorcraft synthetic blend. Previous owner always had it done at the dealer, I did 2 oil changes Valvoline maxlife. I then did an oil analysis.. then I switched to synthetic. Just to see how she did.. and I figured if she did well, I would just convert it over to a name brand.
 
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Whether or not that is so I don't know, but their price structure makes it palpable mainly just for the fanboys.
I know, right? I don't dispute it's the best oil there is but is it THAT much better than second best for those of us not driving a Masseratti? Then there's the question of changing cheap oil sooner vs expensive oil at longer intervals being better for your engine. I'm in the shorter interval camp these days.
 
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Yes that's fine, but if you can't believe what the oil manufacturers are posting. You might as well buy a quart of oil, and start doing your own oil analysis, unless it's already been done by somebody here, and then you're only part of the way there.. then you still need to figure out, go to 5W30 or 5W20. Because obviously that was all for Cafe reasons. Then you need to figure out which oil to start with. This vehicle has always ran on Motorcraft synthetic blend. Previous owner always had it done at the dealer, I did 2 oil changes Valvoline maxlife. I then did an oil analysis.. then I switched to synthetic. Just to see how she did.. and I figured if she did well, I would just convert it over to a name brand.
I can believe all day that the approvals listed on the oils I buy are an accurate representation of the real-world performance. This allows you to skip brands, typical values on a PDS, isolated material properties, personal interpretations of $30 spectrographic analyses, marketing charts and graphs and worthless websites and YouTube videos. This is the whole point of verifiable approvals.
 
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Also noting that some license and approvals can be a bit lackluster in certain areas. API SP's limit on foaming, cam wear, and Noack is a rather low bar.
 
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