Subtitle - Ignorance *was* bliss.
Just discovered this site and it's great but I'm suffering just a bit from information overload... bear with me for some background.
I've just completed a head replacement on an '89 Acura Legend C27A1 engine due to a cracked cam/galled head. The problem is the oil pressure is holding about 12 psi at idle vice a spec of 20. I am unsure as to the exact original cause of the cam failure but I know in general that the affected area did not get sufficient lubrication. I am now beginning to suspect that my ministrations did not cure the original problem. Any help/suggestions/opinions would be appreciated....
First let me say, I'm no mechanic but if this engine is not in the sludge monster category it was severely mistreated before my fiance acquired the car, she says the oil has been changed religiously since she's owned it the last 4 years but the inside of this 160K engine had me wondering how it flowed any oil at all. Once I got it apart I had both heads professionally redone (the rear head and cam were replaced), replaced the oil pump, cleaned the clogged (or very nearly so) pickup screen and reassembled everything. The engine runs well with no noise but an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge tells me the oil pressure is low after we get to operating temperature. Before I risk this thing eating any more cams I have some questions maybe you good folks can clear up for me.
1. Should I use some (newly discovered) Auto Rx to treat the short block now that the heads are nice and shiny? Will this help or hurt the oil pressure situation?
2. I'm using 10w-40 because it's Florida and summer is coming. Also because I'm assuming the main/rod bearing tolerances aren't what they were when they left the factory. Is this solid reasoning or should I switch to a lower viscosity oil? Will this change the oil pressure situation?
3. I know the oil pressure got below 7 psi before the failure (idiot light trigger point) but the crankcase was overfilled by at least a quart (foaming?). Did I goof by not replacing the rod and main bearings?
Thanks...
Just discovered this site and it's great but I'm suffering just a bit from information overload... bear with me for some background.
I've just completed a head replacement on an '89 Acura Legend C27A1 engine due to a cracked cam/galled head. The problem is the oil pressure is holding about 12 psi at idle vice a spec of 20. I am unsure as to the exact original cause of the cam failure but I know in general that the affected area did not get sufficient lubrication. I am now beginning to suspect that my ministrations did not cure the original problem. Any help/suggestions/opinions would be appreciated....
First let me say, I'm no mechanic but if this engine is not in the sludge monster category it was severely mistreated before my fiance acquired the car, she says the oil has been changed religiously since she's owned it the last 4 years but the inside of this 160K engine had me wondering how it flowed any oil at all. Once I got it apart I had both heads professionally redone (the rear head and cam were replaced), replaced the oil pump, cleaned the clogged (or very nearly so) pickup screen and reassembled everything. The engine runs well with no noise but an Autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge tells me the oil pressure is low after we get to operating temperature. Before I risk this thing eating any more cams I have some questions maybe you good folks can clear up for me.
1. Should I use some (newly discovered) Auto Rx to treat the short block now that the heads are nice and shiny? Will this help or hurt the oil pressure situation?
2. I'm using 10w-40 because it's Florida and summer is coming. Also because I'm assuming the main/rod bearing tolerances aren't what they were when they left the factory. Is this solid reasoning or should I switch to a lower viscosity oil? Will this change the oil pressure situation?
3. I know the oil pressure got below 7 psi before the failure (idiot light trigger point) but the crankcase was overfilled by at least a quart (foaming?). Did I goof by not replacing the rod and main bearings?
Thanks...
