I run it in hand tight then put the wrench on it and give it a bump, maybe 1/8th turn. It usually comes out the same, just bump with a wrench and it loosens up.
How tight does the drain plug have to be again?
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yes, tight plus a bump, that's how I always did it.
pretty subjective fora tech operation.
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Some red locktite wouldnt hurt either
if needed I go blue...
not needed tho. I do 15/wk - most w/o a washer'n have -0- call backs.
not needed tho. I do 15/wk - most w/o a washer'n have -0- call backs.
Had an engine oil drain bolt fall out once. It was the only time that I had used a torque wrench to tighten the bolt after an oil change. So much for doing things the "right way."
Might need a new oil pan. When the threads are weak/damaged, this can happen.
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A little wiggle of the plug with your fingers when its about tight,especially on high mileage vehicles tells you alot about conditions or concerns with plug or threads.Don't forget the proper washer.If the head is compromised, or you feel the threads are worn,its better to replace the fastener than just try to over tighten. A little blue or pipe dope will not only help seal,it helps stop the vibration from loosening a plug.I like to slowly sneak up to the final hand torque, one hand guiding the wrench head on the plug for firm engagement, the other doing the torque.
As I've learned and from a friend who was a makeshift mechanic years ago...tighten till it stops,then 1/4-1/2 turn.your done.that was his method from bolts in cars without a torque wrench.
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We had a boss who used to do that, but only for bad things he didn't know how to B/S his way out of, or if it was a job gone wrong, never on the good jobs.
My 2014 911 is 37 ft/lbs which I thought was crazy. Isn't your Subaru a boxer engine? I wonder why such a high torque spec strange two different boxer engines with high torque specs for drain plug
One more thing for the list, I guess. Next change, I’ll have to check threads.
Well, Subaru does use a really big drain plug (~5/8” hole)… maybe that’s part of it? How big is the hole on your 911? On a side note, I’ve never had a drip or weep from a Subie drain plug, just from the bottom of the heads…
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Threads like this are an example of why automakers use plastic pans with their 1/2 turn drain plugs.
My MAZDA oil drain plug states ~ 18 ft/lbs. which is just "snug" with my 12 in socket wrench. I did actual check it with a torque wrench once. Ed
And remove with plasma cutter, right?
That sounds about right I never measured it the size is M18 x 1.5 x 12 if that helps
Not familiar with what this is?
[You have to remember, I drive Toyota's, means even on my new car, my tech is 20 years behind the curve.
Maybe even more.]I've heard of plastic oil pans, and I think I've heard of one time use oil drain plugs, but not sure about half-turn plugs in plastic pans.
The torque spec on the plastic pan of a N20 is something like 8nm. While not technically a 1/2 turn the plastic plug has about 6 threads and 8nm is basically finger tight.Not familiar with what this is?
[You have to remember, I drive Toyota's, means even on my new car, my tech is 20 years behind the curve.
I've heard of plastic oil pans, and I think I've heard of one time use oil drain plugs, but not sure about half-turn plugs in plastic pans.
In any case Ford was the first to market back in 2007.
Autocomposites Update: Engine oil pans
As thermoplastic composites makes inroads into these complex, modular parts, weight and cost go down, functionality goes up.
www.compositesworld.com
Pfft, red loctite isn't even that strong. Especially since it is usually applied to semi-greasy threads.And remove with plasma cutter, right?
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