how thick is GC 0w/30 when it heat up ?
- Thread starter killagt
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Well, as every oil out there, GC thins as it heats up. Once heated up, it is at the higher end of a 30-weight.
I guess I don't fully understand your question...
I guess I don't fully understand your question...
few year ago, I read here some one say GC get thick when it heat up, from that day I just alway think like that,
back to my main point, my mustang 98 gt 156k miles is burning oils it been abour 5k miles and it burn off 4 quart of mobil 1 15w50, and since it winter here and I cant find any mobil 1 around here, so im thinking using 10w40 maxlife for good cold weather start. what you guy think ? should I stay with 15w50 weight or drop down a little bit for cold weather start.
back to my main point, my mustang 98 gt 156k miles is burning oils it been abour 5k miles and it burn off 4 quart of mobil 1 15w50, and since it winter here and I cant find any mobil 1 around here, so im thinking using 10w40 maxlife for good cold weather start. what you guy think ? should I stay with 15w50 weight or drop down a little bit for cold weather start.
JHZR2
Staff member
a 15w- weight oil is fine down to 0F. Do you see 0F? If not, then the only benefit is a tad bit more fuel economy. The wider the spread, chances are the more consumption.
Id be looking to auto-rx with a decent 15w-40 HDEO, and then stick with that.
Delo 400 is a good choice...
JMH
Id be looking to auto-rx with a decent 15w-40 HDEO, and then stick with that.
Delo 400 is a good choice...
JMH
Originally Posted By: killagt
few year ago, I read here some one say GC get thick when it heat up,
I think that goes against the laws of physics (or is it chemistry)?
As for your question, why is it burning oil? Is this normal for this engine or is there some repair that could be performed to stop this from happening?
few year ago, I read here some one say GC get thick when it heat up,
I think that goes against the laws of physics (or is it chemistry)?
As for your question, why is it burning oil? Is this normal for this engine or is there some repair that could be performed to stop this from happening?
all oil gets thinner when it heats up.
just use a HM Castrol GTX, the hot viscosity is nice and high, about 12 or so. most regular xw30 thin out to about 10.5
probably other HM's are similar.
just use a HM Castrol GTX, the hot viscosity is nice and high, about 12 or so. most regular xw30 thin out to about 10.5
probably other HM's are similar.
if I understand it correctly 4 quarts in 5,000 miles? Sounds like mr engine isn't doing well.
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Dude, it's going through WAY too much oil for you to be wasting expensive synthetic oil in it. Pick up some cheap HDEO at Walmart in the big pail and run that until you can afford a rebuild or a new engine.
oh, i didn't notice how much oil it was using. i agree with above: see if you can buy a 55 gallon drum of heavy duty engine oil from the distributor, tell them you need it for your oil change business, because they usually don't sell to the public, and you'll be all set for a while.
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scoobie ..man ..can you come clean off my monitor screen?
Oh ... 55 gal. Some things really just strike that funny chord within me..
killagt ..how much smoke are you pushing out of this engine? If it's not full time, then you've probably got a minor mechanical remedy. If you're fogging the neighborhood ...then the 5 gallon bucket may be your most sensible choice.
killagt ..how much smoke are you pushing out of this engine? If it's not full time, then you've probably got a minor mechanical remedy. If you're fogging the neighborhood ...then the 5 gallon bucket may be your most sensible choice.
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I used M1 15W50 silver cap year round for a long time. It saw a couple of below freezing temps. Never once had an issue.
Originally Posted By: Turbo_777
If memory serves me correctly, it is 12,9cST @ 100 degres C. So its more a ..40 than a 30 oil.
12.1 CST @ 100C
If memory serves me correctly, it is 12,9cST @ 100 degres C. So its more a ..40 than a 30 oil.
12.1 CST @ 100C
If you use 4 quarts of a 50 grade synthetic oil in 5000 miles, you have a mechanical problem that no oil is going to remedy.
If you are going to have a rebuild done anytime soon, then I would consider a 10W-40 High Mileage oil such as Valvoline MaxLife synthetic blend. If you are just going to let the engine go off into the sunset, I would consider Rotella T or Delo.
Before I get nailed, I am not saying Rotella T or Delo is not a top line oil. I am saying that in an engine that "I SUSPECT" has excessive cylinder/ring wear and valve guide wear, an oil with an additive package for diesel use "MIGHT" survive suspected fuel dilution/blow-by a little longer and still have a good cSt, good anti wear package, and not cost a fortune if you are going to 9 or 10 quarts total for your OCI. You will sacrifice FM, but, at this stage I doubt that would be terribly serious.
If you are going to have a rebuild done anytime soon, then I would consider a 10W-40 High Mileage oil such as Valvoline MaxLife synthetic blend. If you are just going to let the engine go off into the sunset, I would consider Rotella T or Delo.
Before I get nailed, I am not saying Rotella T or Delo is not a top line oil. I am saying that in an engine that "I SUSPECT" has excessive cylinder/ring wear and valve guide wear, an oil with an additive package for diesel use "MIGHT" survive suspected fuel dilution/blow-by a little longer and still have a good cSt, good anti wear package, and not cost a fortune if you are going to 9 or 10 quarts total for your OCI. You will sacrifice FM, but, at this stage I doubt that would be terribly serious.
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