How Often to change Mower Oil

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B&S 6.5hp engine in the garage, run 2x per week @ 2hr each time, probably 40wks a year, run in 50-95* temps

Currently, I have been changing at around mabey every 30-50 hrs or so w/ generic 30W mower oil.
I picked up some penzoil HD 30W oil (the stuff in the yellow container) to start using.
 
A common practice for commercial lawn care services is to pull into the shop early on a Friday afternoon & drain the oil and lube the equipment. This equates to 30-60 hrs of hard running between oil changes. So your OCI is consistent with this practice.

Sometimes, air filter maintenance takes a back seat to an oil change. Cleaning the air filter will reduce the amount of ingested dust entering the engine & reduce the load of contaminants the oil is expected to carry.
 
Briggs and stratton recommends 50 hours. I strongly suggest using synthetic...when you think about the fact that you only need half a quart, it's extremely cheap. I just started using Amsoil in all my small engines...
 
ZmOZ, what viscosity of Amsoil are you using. I have considered buying a gallon of their SAE 30 for my lawn mowers. I've been using diesel SAE 30 with good results but I kind of like Amsoil and would like to try their straight 30.
 
My 3.75 hp mower burns enough oil that I would top up with a full volume every 60 hours of operation, so I never have to change it. But I'm noticing more iron powder buildup on my drain plug magnet now, than with new oil. Maybe dust is a factor.
 
"Sometimes, air filter maintenance takes a back seat to an oil change. Cleaning the air filter will reduce the amount of ingested dust entering the engine & reduce the load of contaminants the oil is expected to carry."

I really agree with this. The air filters in these machines are usually ignored until the motor is all fouled out and absolutely won't run.
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--- Bror Jace
 
My schedule has been to change the oil every 40 hours,clean or replace the air filter and give a dose of carb cleaner once a month. Start every season with a new spark plug. I have a few posts on 30 wt oil and a few other things in general regarding small engines. To syn or not syn is up to you. If dino makes you nervous go with syn. Any dino oil will perform well as long as you change it at regular intervals. The intek series is the latest and greatest from briggs. It burns cleaner and is more fuel efficient than the previous L head series which had been in service for 50 plus years.
 
I got a riding mower that sees about the same service (Techumseh motor). Got it used in '87 and have been changing the oil (w/SAE 30 Pennzoil) in July and at the end of the mowing season in the fall. It still runs strong.
 
quote:

Originally posted by FowVay:
ZmOZ, what viscosity of Amsoil are you using. I have considered buying a gallon of their SAE 30 for my lawn mowers. I've been using diesel SAE 30 with good results but I kind of like Amsoil and would like to try their straight 30.

Right now I'm using 10w30, I'm thinking about going with 15w40 next time I need to buy some more.

quote:

Originally posted by greasezerk:
The intek series is the latest and greatest from briggs. It burns cleaner and is more fuel efficient than the previous L head series which had been in service for 50 plus years.

My 6.5hp intek on my lawnmower died, so I temporarily put on a freshly rebuilt 3.75hp flathead that I had. It uses at least half a gallon of gas every time I mow, where my intek would mow several times on it's half gallon tank.
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quote:

Originally posted by greasezerk:
ZmOz, what killed your intek?

It got left out in the rain, and got quite a bit of water in the oil. I didn't notice until after I ran it for about 2 hours.
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Bought a B&S-powered 21" self-propelled Jacobsen in 1973 ("Turbo-Vent" !!), ran it over 800/hrs per annum first few years (30 hrs week times 29-weeks). Then, constant use on one or two good-sized yards (3-6 hours/week for same seven months or 29 weeks; 130 hrs annually) in the remaining 20 years. (Or, lets say over 4,000 hours)(10,000 miles at 2.5 mph?)

Added electronic ignition sometime in the '80's, a magnetic-mount hour meter (TinyTach?), and, from new serviced air fliter and oil every 25 hours past break-in. Minimum twice yearly changes, plus plug change (mower used every month, even if only once). Straight 30W per manual. VERY, VERY careful about not overfilling. And in later years, keeping topped off.

Pri-G or STABIL in fuel canister per recommended dosage; never let get more than two months old before dumping it in one of the cars. Always stored in garage or other non-damp location.

Finally gave away at 24 years: one head gasket and carb rebuild; more wheels/tires than I can recall (plus drive belts; shoot, got too hard to find the parts anymore). Blades were unique and hard to get ahold of. Actually wore the thick alloy deck thru in one location from grass alone.

Took patience in gettin it started, but once warmed it'd still take on Bermuda without a real problem.

Was talking to repair shop owner last week after I was given a 20-year old K&S Curb Edger for him to troubleshoot. (Weedeaters just ain't the deal for the grass/concrete edging). He said todays mowers are -- for reasons he hasn't figured out yet -- only lasting 6-7 years versus my not uncommon experience.

Latest mower is cheap 20" MTD rear discharge($150 ?) plus replaced el-cheapo plastic wheels with ball-bearing steel wheels. Locked throttle at 3/4. Loves FP and LC! 8-prime pumps and starts on first tug. Gonna just buy an extra quart of 10W-30 RL next time and do an LC carbon clean prior to using it. Tiny yard, maybe two hours on a "tough" week when I walk slow, use a big overlap and crosscut. Still dump gas at 6-weeks, 2-mos, etc. With the RL and LC (plus FP) think I'll try annual changes. At 31-ozs engine oil capacity I don't think I can go wrong.

As it is, my "cost" at five years for this mower has been ($180 divided by five years plus gas/oil and service supplies), so, with zero shop time -- and it lasts even a couple more years -- I'll buy another, transfer the wheels, and keep going pretty much for "free" versus an expensive-needs factory-trained-technicians, etc mower).

And if this edger dies, I'll try to snooker my bro-in-law out of the K&S my old man bought in 1962.

Change stuff often, clean it thoroughly (no dust), touch up paint as needed, tighten fasteners, grease controls and keep two or three blades sharpened and balanced. Never let it cut grass that requires more than one-third of grass blade height removed. This is what works for me.
 
Changed the oil in my 1988 Honda 194 @5 1/2 years ago and used M1 5w30..Haven't changed it yet..Level is good and the oil looks pretty much as it did coming out of the bottle....Used about 3/4 of an hour every week...Dang honda starts 2nd pull every time....Honda is the best **** lawn equipment you can buy....Not one thing done to it other than the air filter once a year....Borderline abuse well...maybe but this puppy owes me nothing.....
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My circumstances are probably outside the norm. I mow/thrash into submission about 2 1/2 acres with my 18.5 hp B&S V-twin riding mower. Extremely dusty with our Arkansas summer heat, sandy clay soil and degrading pine needles and leaves from scores of trees.
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I change oil (Delvac 1300 15-40)and filter (oversized Motorcraft FL400s or now a Wix 51516-bettter than my car can use) twice a season, which is about every 18-22 hours. Oiled pre-filter is checked/cleaned about every 3 hour run. Engine cooling shroud is pulled to clean dust from the cooling fins several times a season. Very probably overkill, but it's only $7-10 a year more to protect a $1300 unit.
 
A guy I work with, who has a commercial lawn care business on the side, told me he that he changes the oil at the end of the season, before he puts the equipment away. The mowing season begins in late March, so in late May or early June, he changes the oil again, which lasts until the season ends in late October. He doesn't go by hours. His equipment seems to be holding up well, but I'd probably do one additional change per year if it were my business.
 
I change the oil in my lawn equipment every fall and everything seems to be holding up very well. My Dad has been mowing 3 acres with an MTD riding mower (about 3 hours twice a week) for seven years. He did not change the oil for the first three years until I started doing it for him in the fall 4 years ago. Currently everything either has M1 0W40 or Rotella T 5W40. This fall everything but the old MTD may go to Amsoil 10W30.
 
I own a comm'l Lawn Business. I've run Opti-4 in all the motors until recently. Changed to 15w-40 Rotella. The oil is changed every 45-50 hours. A homeowner mower can be about 1 change per year and be fine. Use a high quality oil and keep the air filters clean.
 
I'll probably change mine 3 times a season, which I understand is huge overkill. But with the oil being unfiltered, and possibly run under very harsh circumstands (in an air-cooled engine in 100*F weather), I figure the oil is cheap insurance, especially at 20 oz per change. It's only about $3/year to change the oil 3 times for the typical 4-stroke push mower.

My last B&S Quantum engine very heavily soiled the oil after only one season of mowing. I don't know how old the oil was when I got the mower, but I changed the oil before I ever used it. At the end of the season, before I sold it off, I changed it again and it was dark as night. Very nasty looking. I admit it could have been due to many things, but I decided then and there that I wasn't going to let that happen again, no way no how.
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