I just cant believe the price of Synthetic oil anymore. Went to WM the other day,and I`m thinking "wow,do I really need to continue using Synthetic oil at these prices"? Only reason I use it,is because it seem`s to run better on it. And when I bought the vehicle, I didnt like the tell tale signs of the oil not being changed enough. I think I may use my last jug of PU next oil change, and just go back to vwb. What say you guy`s? is the price of Synthetic starting to make you all cringe as well?
how many of you are switching back to conventional
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That's why I am always looking for a sale. AAP still offers 5 QTs of whatever syn plus an M1 or Bosch Distance plus filter for $32. That's a reasonable price...not as good as some clearance prices I've got, but still reasonable...
I know the QSUD is a great buy right now, But my WM hardly ever has it in stock.
Nope will stick with synthetic oil. Considering I can buy it @ Wal-Mart for between $18.75 and $22.00 for a 5 quart jug and change it normally every 6 months or 5000 miles as my wife do not drive either vehicle all that much as we both have been retired for years.
The bulk of our driving is short trips but at least once a week drive one vehicle around 30 + miles.
Considering the price difference I don't consider it excessive in using synthetic oils.
A Mocha at the local coffee works it Five Bucks and skipping One about covers the difference in the price of oils.
I had amsoil euphoria a few years back, had a '96 MPV I went through, had the trans and engine and transfer cases filled w/ amsoils finest. ran great, esp in the coldest winter when the shifter didn't really want to move. spent a good bit of coin getting all those fluids done.
lost that car (hit and run).
I was also running amsoil in a VUE w/ an ecotec; car never consumed oil on conventional, but when I switched to amsoil around 40K or so it started consuming oil, enough that it didn't show on the dipstick (when I checked it a few K after change)!
I'm not blaming amsoil, I didn't have it tested or anything, but I traded that car, and my love affair w/ boutique synthetics was over.
my mazda5 gets castrol GTX every 5K, simple.
Lexus 114, IMHO, synthetic makes sense in your cars - if I had a Lexus and MB, they would only get syn...like my Volvos, MB and Toyotas....just find it on sale!
already switched back to conventional (PYB, Q-state green, etc.) due to hard economic times.
No difference in performance (none of my vehicles burn oil).
Q.
I'm considering it for the PT-GT now that my stash of $1.99 SM Quaker State Synthetic has been exhausted.
It's always been run on synthetic since 5000 miles and I've got receipts in the maintenance log to show that. But I think that will actually count for very little whenever we do decide to sell or trade it.
I am still squeamish about running a conventional in a turbocharged car. I'm pragmatic enough to know that today's crop of conventionals are good enough for a 5000 mi OCI on a turbocharged car....but still, pictures of coked and sludged VAG 1.8T's run on conventional haunt me.
I don't have any reason to buy synthetic oil.And since I refuse to pay more than $2.50 a qt I most likely won't ever use synthetic.
Trust me, I want to go back to conventional, I switched from Syn to Conventional awhile ago, but with the 11 Malibu I need a Dexos cert oil. Given its a lease, and also that I am not a jerk I'd like to keep it maintained enough so the next person doesn't get a lemon(hopefully).
I have 4500 on the Factory Fill and its almost time for me dump it(forgoing OLM at this change since it would run about 7-8k.). At 5k I'm gonna try and get the cheapest, yet still approved oil. My wife's Impreza is strictly dino which is nice =)
Count me in as well, in Canada synthetic oil price is just ridiculous. I know it's a small price for the piece of mind and all that other gibberish, but my car doesn't require synthetic and I don't plan on extending OCis, so what's the point?
When I look at the total cost of owning a car, motor oil lubricant choice is a pretty tiny percentage of it.
I also don't get all of the doom and gloom about oil prices. I just picked up some Pennzoil Platinum that I'll use on a friend's car for $13.00 for 5 qt. after the Sopus rebate. How much cheaper to people expect finish lubricants to be? Adjusted for inflation, premium motor oils are WAY cheaper than they were 20 years ago. If cost is a concern, just look out for the deals--they're certainly out there.
I have nothing against conventional oils, but my thoughts are pretty much the opposite of yours; when I can get a quality GIII synthetic for 3.00/qt or less, I just don't see the point in using conventional.
I'm actually just the opposite. I look at what conventional costs in relation to synthetic and I couldn't imagine paying that much for conventional. I just make sure I buy my syn when there is an oil change deal and it comes out to about $4 more than a conventional oil change. I do right at two oil changes a year changing according to the olm. $8 a year more for the syn doesn't have me shifting any money outta savings... I know modern conventionals are great but as someone who has always used syn I find it hard to switch. There are allot more places where the average person can find waste spending. I see lots of it as I drive past starbucks each morning with the coffee mug I brewed at home. I also have a little chuckle when I see the number of new luxury cars at the local quik lube. 40+K for a new ride and there they are saving $20 bucks on an oil change at walmart service. I dunno, just doesn't make sense to me...
The best oil in the U.S. is still cheaper than the cheapest swill money can buy in Germany, for the less than pocket change price they charge for synthetic in the U.S. i wouldn't even bother looking at dino.
No offence but with a lexus and MB complaining about nickels and dimes over cheap oil seems strange to me especially when you can do longer OCI's on the synthetic which pretty much offsets the price difference.
<---I'm varying it up.
I have some Valvoline MaxLife(synthetic and blend formulations) on hand, as well as Formula Shell.
I 'prefer' Amsoil.
I will buy Amsoil again, especially since all other synthetics seem to be about as expensive as Amsoil these days. If I want synthetic, why not get Amsoil(if you use it), you know? Pay premium and get the best. I really like their current AZO 0w-30. Great shot of Boron and Moly. Loads of calcium, good TBN, etc.
I'd also like to try me some Ultra but with the way people are getting so much trouble from the rebates it makes me want to just avoid them. I'd use M1 otherwise. Have yet to use Castrol, though.
My van would run it's lifetime on conventional oil and after 100's of thousands of miles, the engine would likely run just fine on it's way to the recycler when the body/driveline was worn out.
I NEED conventional oil...... I WANT synthetic ('cause I'm special) 
I often make my own blend of synthetic and conventional. You can always get it cheap if you watch for sales and resist temptation to get it at full price. My car has no turbocharger or supercharger, and the climate is mild here, so it can digest most oils if they are SH or better. Unless I am going into the Sierras, the deserts, or Central Nevada in the winter, I need not worry much about cold weather starts. It can take 5W-20 or 20W-50 in a pinch. I once landed the 20W-50 for $1.00 a quart. I have also found new production 5W-50 Edge for less than $5.00 a quart, and 0W-30 Mobil 1 for about that price.
You just have to keep your eye out for the sales. If you take a trip, stop by a store there and if there is a good deal, add it to your stash for flexibility.
You spend many thousands on two high end expensive luxury cars, cringe over the relatively small oil price increases. I spend the money on the oil, and cringe over huge high end expensive luxury car price increases. hmmm...
With some modern cars having sludge problems, many new cars being turbocharged, many new engines have variable valve timing and so on. It's not worth the risk anymore to use conventional oils.
Cam phasers in many new Fords are (at least around here) sensitive to oil type, viscosity when hot and cleanliness. And, those parts are not cheap.
I've re-evaluated my needs, and have made some changes...
I'll continue to use Amsoil AMO in the 2002 Goldwing, due to the duty that the oil serves in the engine AND in the gearbox. No compromise. 4 quarts at $10 a quart, once a year, is worth it there.
The newest vehicle in the fleet, the 2007 Town and Country 3.8, has been on a dealer fed diet of Valvoline bulk oil since the first change, and because of a change in suppliers, for the last two changes it has seen Pennzoil bulk oil.
To keep things simple, I'd love to use Rotella T5 10w-30 in it, but can't since it is a 5w-20 engine 
. I haven't decided what I'm going to use in it, but as of now, I'll probably use Pennzoil 5w-20 yellow bottle.
I used to use 10w-30 Platinum in the Sierra, but am now using Rotella T5 10w-30 in it. It gets an oil change once a year.
Before we sold the Park Avenue, I previously used 10w-30 Platinum in it, but had switched it over to Rotella T5 10w-30 as well.
So, I've downgraded from Platinum to Rotella T5.
. I haven't decided what I'm going to use in it, but as of now, I'll probably use Pennzoil 5w-20 yellow bottle.
I used to use 10w-30 Platinum in the Sierra, but am now using Rotella T5 10w-30 in it. It gets an oil change once a year.
Before we sold the Park Avenue, I previously used 10w-30 Platinum in it, but had switched it over to Rotella T5 10w-30 as well.
So, I've downgraded from Platinum to Rotella T5.- Status
