How many hours is a normal "life" span of LCD 4K TV?

Feb 19, 2009
The Woods of NY
I was thinking about this recently. I have a 55" LG 4K TV that has what to me sounds like a lot of hours at 43XX over the course of a couple years. I searched on google and was shocked at some of the results of 20-50K hours... is that true in real life conditions?

the biggest issue is software support of my past TV's the apps would not work or not work correctly TV got slow ect.. I know I could get a fire stick ect but do like to upgrade the picture resolution or size every so often.

The LG on the other hand picture is still beautiful with no burn in all apps work and it has a decent cpu power to handle streaming 4K ect. also running WebOS that is still snappy so i see no reason to change it out.. It's actually quite the opposite I hope it last many more years.

So under real life conditions how long do your TV's usually last (hardware / software support?) :unsure:

There is no way to predict the lifespan of your tv. Contact your set's manufacturer, that is the best way to estimate.
There is no way to predict the lifespan of your tv. Contact your set's manufacturer, that is the best way to estimate.
that's why I posted this thread to get real life experiences vs what the mfg says.

LG says half life of 40-60K hours or 5-7 years.

OLED is even higher at up to 100K.
I have a 65" Vizio that is going on 10 years. And it gets played plenty. And always has. The picture is as bright and crisp today, as the day I brought it home and plugged it in. I have no idea what the total hours are on it.

I had an electrical engineer as a neighbor once who worked for Northrop. He told me whenever I bought anything electronical, especially TV's. To plug them in, turn them on, and leave them on for at least 48 hours straight. This did 2 things. If anything was going to fail, it usually would in the first 48 hours of continuous operation.

And secondly, it allowed the electronics to "burn in". This helped assure a long life of the electronic components. He told me that all of the electronic "black boxes" that went into fighter aircraft, were given this treatment at Northrop, and most all other aircraft manufacturers.

They found by doing this the service life of the units increased dramatically. And if anything failed, it was all but certain to do so on the test bench, and not in the aircraft during flight.

I have followed this advice ever since. It makes sense, and I see no reason to change. I have heard elsewhere that the worst thing for electronics is turning them on and off constantly. Short warm up and cool down cycles are much more detrimental to their service life, than long continous hours are.
Last edited:
that's why I posted this thread to get real life experiences vs what the mfg says.

LG says half life of 40-60K hours or 5-7 years.

OLED is even higher at up to 100K.
You have to compare with someone having the same model. What someone says about a Visio, Sony, Panasonic, etc. is comparing apples and oranges.
I think it really depends on the quality of set you are starting with. In the last 20 years I have only bought three top of the is sold, and was working well when I sold it, the other two are still in use. The "middle aged" one (QLED) was a top of the line unit ~5 years ago, and gets saddled with daily duty, so guessing 2-3 hours per day between my son and my bride and I. The newest (QLED) has home theater duty, so not used much in the summer, but much more in the winter.

The only LCD I have had "fail" was a budget Walmart special I got about 12 years ago. It had two vertical white lines in it just a year or two after purchase. After 3 moves (two across country), the last of which, the lines disappeared, and it is still operating normally as my son's gaming screen. It has some light ghosting from his Xbox, but still kicking.
Hmmm.. sometimes I think it may be the electronics driving the panel more than the panel itself?
Quite possibly. For a while consumer electronic longevity was greatly influenced by the quality of one component - electrolytic caps. I'm unsure if they've improved on them, went to better quality manufacturers like Nichicon, or if it's still a significant problem.
Usually, the power supply goes out first. Of course, manufacturers do not provide schematics, parts, etc., so you can fix it. Just throw it away, and buy a new one.
I got 2009 Samsung 40 inch LCD. When I got rid off cable tv about 6 ears ago I am using it now as my PC monitor with addition of 650W Logitech stereo speakers plus 12" subwoofer.
It's on all day, but I do turn it off every night before going to bed.
It still works great.
We have a 46 inch Samsung we bought in 2011 still works fine - speakers are shot if you turn it up much - but its only 1080P.

We have an el cheapo Insignia 32 inch I bought at Best buy around the same time and it seldom gets shut off - it rolls over to a roku screensaver when not being used - and it still works fine also.

I think LED screens are MTBF of around 50,000 hours - so even 10 hours a day its like 14 years, and thats mean, so half would last longer, and some significantly longer
I bought a 40 in. Samsung LED in 2014 to replace another stolen in a burglary. It's been on for 5-7 hrs. a day since I got it. It still looks good to me but maybe there's been some slight degradation that I don't notice. 15k to 20k hours?

I don't know if it makes a difference, but my Samsung was from the end of the era of a thicker profile. It actually has decent enough speakers. Also, full back lit. No sound bar needed.
Looks like I've got the oldest so far: bought a 42" Panasonic plasma back in 2004. It's still working like new today with 18 years of daily use. Picture quality is still excellent - no burn-in, great color & contrast, etc. But I've been careful, using the wobbler and not leaving it on unless we're using it.

Usually, the power supply goes out first. Of course, manufacturers do not provide schematics, parts, etc., so you can fix it. Just throw it away, and buy a new one.
This is at least partly true. When mine was about 4 years old, one day it failed to turn on. The power light just blinked. I looked up the service manual online and realized the blinking was a code. I opened it up and followed the service manual troubleshooting guide using my multimeter to determine which internal board was faulty. The faulty board cost about $700 from the factory, though they gave a $150 core fee for returning the bad one. I shopped around and found a place that bought new screens that had damaged or cracked glass (like dropped off the forklift), and parted out the internals. Bought that same board from a new monitor for $100. Then I returned the defective one to Panasonic and got the $150 core fee even though I wasn't buying a new board. So I came out $50 ahead.

That was 14 years ago and it's worked like new ever since. So I agree the screen half-life in hours is an irrelevant and misleading measurement or specification. Most likely, something else will fail, rendering the screen useless, long before the actual display goes bad. But if you're handy you may be able to fix it.
I have a 2006 Panasonic that still works that I've never been inside of.

In my experience with repairing quite a lot of TVs (I have repaired 50, 55, and 65" TVs in my house I got for free) is the biggest thing to go and the hardest thing to replace is the LED backlights. On a lot of TVs if one LED on the strip goes you might just have a darker spot on the TV, but some will also not turn on at all because the one dead LED is causing a short. I feel like replacing main boards, power boards, or TCONs is cake in that it's just a straight swap and plugging in some ribbon cables, but replacing LEDs is very difficult because they're under the panel and require very carefully lifting the panel out without cracking it. I've only done it once successfully on a 4 year old or so Vizio TV.

The Samsung TV I'm typing this on now was broken when I got it, it was one of the first smart TVs from back in 2011/2012 or so, apparently a failed firmware update (ie, maybe power went out while updating firmware from the internet) bricked the BIOS of the TV, and the only way to unbrick it without buying a new board was have someone desolder the chip and reflash the BIOS, which is pretty hard.

I ended up with a new mainboard but interestingly I had to use one from a different model of TV, apparently my TV was a Black Friday model with less ports made specifically to hit a pricepoint for Best Buy. I think the number difference was 6000 was the normal one, and 6003 or 6004 was the less featured version, so my TV has the full featured board with all the ports now and seems to be running OK. One thing I noticed too was my version had a metal heatsink on the processor, the Black Friday one did not.

So based on this experience if you want a long service life, I would very much avoid Black Friday, Christmas, etc, sales, because the TVs might be specifically made to hit a price point and could be gimping on either features, quality control, or general durability.
TV lifespan is more or less a gamble. Sure, there's always the possibility of getting a dud but it's rare. My current 2014 Vizio P-series has at least 30k hours on it and functions like the day I brought it home. Sure, the built in apps are long outdated, however its a non-issue since I use a Roku Premiere box and an external AV receiver to handle video switching.
Our current tv was bought in 2008 and when my wife is home it is never turned off. She sleeps with it on, which annoys the hell out of me but that’s another issue… That thing is apparently never going to fail.

When I bough it I purchased it based entirely on width: it’s 1/4” narrower than the inside of the very expensive entertainment console it sits in. When it finally dies I don’t relish the thought of trying to find a replacement based on width again.