How long will it take to notice a difference in cleanliness with Delvac 1300?

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Topic states it. I will be using AutoRX as soon as I can find a break in the solo season (or a co-driver). I'm really not that comfortable having an autoRX cycle while continually driving at over 4500 RPM. But I'm still curious as to how much this oil will clean. Previous three oils used: Mobil Drive clean 10w-40: short change intervals, got pretty dirty after 3-4 events and daily driving. Valvo VR1 20w-50: short change intervals, 4-5 events only (bought a beater). Not black looking, but I would develop a ticking lifter after a few events. Valvo max life 10w-30: Dec to Feb. Mostly highway driving (2k miles). a few ice races. Came out looking pretty good and smelling clean. After running the max life I now always have a ticking lifter, although you can't hear it with the hood closed. Looking through the oil cap it looks pretty dirty, brown and black.
 
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The oil is not going to do much. It is better at keeping an already clean engine clean then non- CH/CI-4 oil. This is especialy true of the ring pack area. If you have sludge this oil is not going to disolve or clean it. Their is no reason why you can not put Auto-RX in and turn a 4500RPMs. I do 3000 RPMS going 80 on the HWY all day long and often hit 7200 RPM's. Auto-Rx is not a solvent and it does not thin the oil out of grade or weaken it's lube ability. If you think you need auto-rx put it in.
 

Thomas Pyrek

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Very true, but I'm personally not too comfortable with the idea of extra dirt and crap floating around when I'm bouncing off the rev limiter at 6,500 rpm. the 3000 RPM doesn't scare me off because that's what people do normally. I'm just leary of using it in an engine that I'm planning on racing. Especially with the amount that I drive the car, it will probably be in there a minimum of 2-3 events. Thanks for telling me about the cleaning stuff. From what I hear about some people about this oil is that it will clean up crap that other oils leave behind. I'll dump that stuff in shortly and post my results. [ March 02, 2004, 07:52 PM: Message edited by: Thomas Pyrek ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: The oil is not going to do much. It is better at keeping an already clean engine clean then non- CH/CI-4 oil. This is especialy true of the ring pack area. If you have sludge this oil is not going to disolve or clean it. Their is no reason why you can not put Auto-RX in and turn a 4500RPMs. I do 3000 RPMS going 80 on the HWY all day long and often hit 7200 RPM's. Auto-Rx is not a solvent and it does not thin the oil out of grade or weaken it's lube ability. If you think you need auto-rx put it in.
John, Have you ever switched an older (dirty) gas engine over to a HDEO 15w-40? I have, and I've seen with my own two eyes the "cleaning" capabilities of these oils. While none of the engines I've ran into have had accumulations of sludge, the valvetrain and head of each of them were covered in a dark, brown varnish. After a 5k run, each of the car and trucks engines top-ends were much, much cleaner, with the varnish turning to a very light brown color with even a few places having the varnish entirely dissapear, albeit it in small areas. I've also noticed much better ring/cylinder seal after running a HDEO 15w-40, by means of the D/D package cleaning the ring area, with cleaner oil and less blow-by as a result. Sorry if it sounds like I'm going off on you..I'm not. I just want to set you straight that these oils, at least in my experience in very different engines (low-reving OHV V6 truck engine, high-reving OHC I5 car engine, I4 tractor engine), running a HDEO 15w-40 has resulted in a much cleaner engine.
 
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Thomas , I'm not sure if your looking for cleaning only or a cheap race oil or both but you can take or leave my opinion that using a HD Diesel oil primarily developed for 2,000 RPM engines that are without optimum anti-foam for high RPM are not the fast way around the track .Thicker is not better most times either . The vi depends on many things but one constant is to use a race oil in a race application for best results . The Valvoline last I saw used over 16 ppm of silicone as a defoamant . Sure the Delvac 1300S has around 6ppm and that is more than some HDEO's . The Delvac is friction modified very little as opposed to the Valvoline . Wanna know why the Valvoline did not get dirty as quick ? Could be do to one or all of the following . Better ring seal , superior detergent/dispersant of the ashless type , highly friction modded so the engine made less heat and probable more but thats the short list . There is more than meets the eye in voa's but Valvoline VR-1 is not lacking in detergency thats for certain . It's also available in different grades . Many other more suitable brand/chemistry choices as well for your engine or am I mistaken and your actually racing a diesel ? [Wink] Valvoline VR1 Zinc 1200 Phos 1140 Calcium 2720 Magnesium 760 Best of luck to you in weeding the good info from the bad on the internet concerning motor oils . It's as bad as the guy at the odd parts counter sometimes in terms of mis-information [Smile] But stick with us and keep coming back , learning is what BITOG Forum is all about [Cool] And some topics are just impossible to post all the info at one whack . Thats where others here step in where left off in posting . [ March 02, 2004, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 
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Motorbike, Just because an oil is primarily formualated for diesel engines, by no means does that means that is the only thing it is good for. I couldn't disagree with you more, and by no means am I an expert, but I do know a thing or two. In terms of the anti-foam properties of oil, unless your crank is submerged in the sump, an HDEO or "racing oil" will provide all the anti-foaming properties you need. Older HDEO formulations did lack superior anti-foam properties, but with the advent of oil-acutated injectors, HDEO anti-foaming properties are very good. Nor do I understand what you're trying to show with the specs. you posted: Valvoline VR1 Zinc 1200 Phos 1140 Calcium 2720 Magnesium 760 CI-4/SL Delvac 1300 (from VOA section) Zinc: 1852ppm Phosphorus: 1769ppm Calcium: 4071ppm Magnesium: 757ppm Sure, I do agree with you that thicker isn't always better...I'll take high HT/HS numbers with a great additive package...Delvac 1300 is at 4.3cP and the additive package is second to none. I do think the VR1 is a fine oil, but if Mr. Pyrek will do an analysis, I be it'll show the oils protecting the oil at least equally...
 

Thomas Pyrek

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I did start a thread a while back as far as what would be a better oil for the car. The argument that was made was far superior for the 1300. I run 20w-50 VR1 because that is all I can find in my area. I'll still probably return all of my VR1 stock for now. The 1300 looks to be a quality oil and looks to be a **** of alot better at my purposes, and it is $1 cheaper a quart too! Spring break is coming up for me, so I may be able to put the 1500 miles on, then remove it before the first event.
 
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