How is Pennzoil HD30?

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Oct 30, 2002
Great Lakes
This is for a lawnmower with a 190cc B&S engine (6.75).

The manual says just to use any heavy duty SAE30 oil and dump every year.

I was initially thinking of using GC, but then figured it'd be like throwing diamonds at a swine, and figured I'd get something less glamorous. I would have gotten Rotella T 30-weight, but it was only available in 1 gal jugs - that'd take me 5 years to finish, if not more. So I picked up a quart of yellow Pennzoil HD30 for now. Is this oil OK or is there something more appropriate for my needs?

From what I saw dumping the Toro HD30 oil the mower came with,it ran out like water.When I changed it to the GC,and dumped it again,it sure appeared to hold up a lot better than the HD30 did.Visually any way.
For the life of me I can't see why small B&Ses still call for straight 30. It can't cost any less than a 10w-30 these days. Maybe they don't want to go through and retest on a multi-vis.

I'm running mine on some leftover 10w-40. Runs better and starts easier than the three year old factory fill.

But yeah, PZ sae 30 is probably exactly what the manufacturer had in mind.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
All PZ oils are great products, it will work great.
If you're still doing your own oil changes, you could use just about whatever 1/2 bottle you have left. I used to collect bottle drippings from "empty" oil bottles in a 1L bottle, which I then used for my B&S lawn mower.

If you change it once a year, I'd guess any 20, 30 or 40wt multi or monograde will be great.

These things go decades on factory fill after all.
Don't get me wrong though - I understand the fun in obsessing about it!
Like others, I agree we think about lawn mower oil too much.

Quattro, is the PZ 30 yellow bottle an SM or SL oil? I vaguely remember it being SM now. In this respect, the Rotella (SJ) would have a better add pack. The Briggs and the Kohler 30W oils are both HDEO/SJ too, but cost an extra dollar in quarts.

The reason 30W works well in air cooled engines is because they run significantly hotter and the 30W doesn't break down as easy as multi-weights. IMO, that's why Briggs recommends to use a synthetic if you want a multigrade. The Kohler brand 10W30 is a HDEO oil.

Just sharing info. I doubt you would realize a difference using the PZ 30W you selected....maybe.
After draining the factory Sears oil within 5 hours of use, I then used Pennzoil HD30 as my second fill on my B&S motor. Ran smooth and quiet! (the Sears fill had quickly turned to a silver color with the metal wear breaking in).

I have since tried using Castrol HD30, and it does not run as well. From what I've read, the older straight weight of the Castrol shears easily.

So, last summer I switched back to Pennz HD30. No problems since then.
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Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Quattro, is the PZ 30 yellow bottle an SM or SL oil?

The one I picked up is SL. There was also an SM-rated Valvoline straight 30, but I figured the SL-rated PZ might have a stronger add pack.
I agree that a lot of silver comes off these small engines in the first few hours.

My Yamaha generator had a significant amout of silver after the first hour on 10w-40 dino. I then ran an OCI of 2 hours on 15w-40 and it had a tiny bit of silver. Then I changed it to XD-3 HDEO full PAO synth 0w-30 and I just changed that after 15 hours. It looked like brand new. Not even the slightest hint of silver. Probably should have gone another 35 hours on that.

I am now running XD-3 0w-30 in every 4 stroke gas engine I have.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
For the life of me I can't see why small B&Ses still call for straight 30. It can't cost any less than a 10w-30 these days. Maybe they don't want to go through and retest on a multi-vis.

You're probably right.

Here's a response I received from Toro when I asked them about using anything else other than a straight 30:


Our units are tested with the SAE 30W detergent oil with an API service classification of SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL, or higher. Briggs and Stratton also recommend this type of oil. All current oil is automatically detergent oil and it is the letter f or letter g that shows this. The letter w stands for the weight of the oil.
It is best to follow the Operator's Manual for the proper oil recommendation.
It's probably because of shearing properties... Straight weights don't have VI's to shear down so they stay within grade unless thoroughly abused and keep the engine well lubricated and cool.

You're average consumer doesn't change the oil in their lawnmower so they need to keep it running as long as possible while being abused IMO.

On another note my JD tractor calls for a 5w30 or 10w40 depending on temperature.
Pennzoil HD30 is all I use in my OPE. I have tried 15w-40, 10w-30, and 10w-40 as well as other brands of strait 30.

Pennzoil IS different from other brands (in the same weight even) and all my stuff runs better and consumes less with it.
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