How does this sound?

[Droopy]

Hello All,

I've been away but now that I've got a 2014 Honda Accord Sport with the earth dreams 2.4 4 cylinder, I just would like some feedback on what I'm planning for my first change. There's been talk on here with scientific evidence that K&N air filters let in too much dirt. What I'm planning on doing is letting the factory fill(0w-20 blend) stay in there until 3k miles and then going to full synthetic. I also like using Purolator Pureones but since they're tearing, I'm having second thoughts. I'd like to throw in a K&N air filter(drop in), 0W20 Full Synthetic(M1 AFE, PP or Synpower) and a Bosch DP oil filter when it's time. My question is since the K&N filters let in so much dirt will a premium filter combat this if I change it at my interval of 6 months/3 to 4k miles? I've never had a problem with the above regimen with 2 vehicles(09 Camry and 12 Highlander) but with the data on the K&N filters, I'm a little skeptical. Thanks in advance, Steve

 

[SatinSilver]

That doesn't sound good imo. It lets more dirt into the engine and can possible gunk up the MAF sensor. Leave the FF for at least 5k miles or till the MM is down to 15%. www.driveaccord.net is a good forum. Which is how I found out about this site.

 

[Droopy]

Due to my driving habits and where I live(northeast) I do a lot of short trips and stop and go driving. I would never take any oil past 5k miles. Also since the engine is breaking in the fuel dilution is higher, I figured the oil would break down faster.

 

[gathermewool]

Your Honda knows what kind of driving you do - follow the maintenance minder.

What are you trying to gain by swapping in a K&N filter? It can't be for any practical reason, since swapping out a perfectly good OEM filter way too early doesn't make any financial sense. If you want to make more power, well you're not going to gain much if anything there either...

No, your plan does not sound good.

 

[yvon_la]

Just add a panty hose where the external inlet begin .problem solved

 

[CELICA_XX]

Originally Posted By: Droopy
since the K&N filters let in so much dirt will a premium filter combat this


You are acknowledging that the K&N is a poor air filter, and you're trying to make up for it with a high-end oil filter ?

Skip the K&N.

 

[Nick1994]

After interest, taxes, and all other dealer fees you've got to be around $27-28,000 into this car. I'm not sure either what you're gaining with using a K&N air filter. Especially just a drop in. The added particulates are going to flow through the engine before hitting the oil filter, you're doing more harm than good. You'll likely change an OEM filter once a year or once every other year. They're like $25, not a big deal.

 

[zrxkawboy]

Why are you so set on using a poor-filtering air filter? Use a good-quality paper filter and change it at the mfr-recommended interval.

 

[barkingspider]

I would use a paper air filter and oem oil filter with syn oil of your choice using the manufacturer recommended intervals.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Keep the OEM air filter and change it to another OEM air filter according to maintenance schedule. As mentioned by yvon_la, a pantyhose at the inlet tube will extend air filter life by about 50% or more. Just change or clean the pantyhose once a year. I do it for my cars, air filters are looking clean after 30-40k miles.

Any synthetic 0W20 is good until OLM goes down to 5-10%, Bosch DP oil filter is not as good as Fram Ultra and it's about $8-9 at Walmart.

 

[fdcg27]

As everyone else says, skip the K&N and go with the factory style paper air filter, which can already flow way more air than the engine can pump.
You gain nothing with a K&N air filter.
Why use an air filter with known low efficiency and then try to fix things by using a very efficient oil filter?
This engine probably already has synthetic oil in it.
Follow Honda's instructions and run the FF to 15% MM or less.
You can then use any API SN 0W-20 you want. You could use any number of oil filters for the intervals you'll be doing based upon the MM. If you do buy a high tier 15K oil filter, run it for two OCIs as Honda recommends, just to get your money out of it. If you, like me, don't like doing this, then use a mid-tier filter like a Wix or store brand Wix clone. I'd avoid buying P1s at the moment myself.
I'm going to guess that you'll see 15% MM between 6 and 7K, based upon what you've written of how you'll use the car.
The IOLM algorithym accounts for the way in which the car is used.

 

[SHOZ]

I like the DryFlow filters that AEM makes, also owned by K&N. No oil, easy to clean, lifetime guarantee.

 

[Droopy]

I got the car for 26k and some change because I used to work at the dealership. Sorry I'm just old school and I like changing it every 3 to 4k miles. Even on my wife's equinox I change it around 4k miles because she does mostly highway. Instead of going with the K&N I'll go with an OEM style filter.

 

[chrisri]

Go with OEM or MANN filters. If you really want performance filter try BMC.They are better than K&N.

 

[SHOZ]

I confused. Are we talking about oil or air filters?

 

[Oil Changer]

Sounds kinda dumb. Follow the MM and keep the OEM filter. You waste money and resources and are doing nothing to prolong the life of your vehicle.

 

[Ken2]

Quote:
AEM makes, also owned by K&N.

Not exactly.

"AEM and K&N have formed a strategic partnership and alliance to take advantage of each company’s core competencies. As a result, AEM air intakes, filters, and related air induction products will now be managed and operated in a strategic partnership with K&N. AEM will provide technical and engineering services while K&N will manage the sales, marketing, and manufacturing of these product lines. AEM performance electronics and billet parts will continue to be engineered, manufactured, and sold exclusively by AEM."
http://www.transnationalcapital.com/news/aem/index.html


Droopy, what is your goal? More power? You won't get that from any air filter change. More intake noise? Maybe. Gott'a do it, 'cuz everybody does?...OK

The intake system is only at maximum flow at high rpms and wide open throttle. At any other time it is limited either by the low flow rate of less than high rpms, or the throttle is doing its job of, um, throttling part of the air flow. If there is actually a so-called high performance air filter that does allow more air flow at max, you can be sure that either it is too big to close the hood, or it lets through more dirt. And, wait for an AEM cold air intake for your car, although most of those really bring in warm air and are tuned only for a certain rpm range.

 

[SHOZ]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
AEM makes, also owned by K&N.

Not exactly.

"AEM and K&N have formed a strategic partnership and alliance to take advantage of each company’s core competencies. As a result, AEM air intakes, filters, and related air induction products will now be managed and operated in a strategic partnership with K&N. AEM will provide technical and engineering services while K&N will manage the sales, marketing, and manufacturing of these product lines. AEM performance electronics and billet parts will continue to be engineered, manufactured, and sold exclusively by AEM."
http://www.transnationalcapital.com/news/aem/index.html





I have an AEM CAI for my Gen Coupe. Been on the car since 2010. I was cleaning the original AEM dryflow filter and noticed some tears in it at the high points of the pleats.

I called AEM and they sent a new one as it is a lifetime warranty. It came from K&N and except for the "Do not oil" it looks just like a K&N. The original filter did not have the red color or any wire mesh. The new one does.

 

[Droopy]

My goal is to get better mpg but my first tank was 430 miles and my second tank was 465. If I'm going to allow all the dirt In for maybe an extra 30 miles per tank it's not worth it. I've never experienced any of the maf problems or the other known issues running them.

 

[virginoil]

Shift the Thread to the Filters sections its has little to do with motor oil.

MODERATORS